Bobcat 2200 Utility Vehicle Workshop Repair Service Manual – 6903129

(S/N: 235311001-D to 235312999-D – S/N: 235211001-G to 235212999-G)
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This workshop repair service manual PDF download for the Bobcat 2200 Utility Vehicle has been prepared as an aid to improve the quality of repairs by giving the serviceman an accurate understanding of the product and by showing him the correct way to perform repairs and make judgements. Make sure you understand the contents of this manual and use it to fully at every opportunity.

APPLICABLE MODELS :

Bobcat Utility Vehicle 2200
S/N: 235311001-D to 235312999-D
S/N: 235211001-G to 235212999-G

TABLE OF CONTENTS :

Section 1 – Safety
Section 2 – Vehicle Specifications
Section 3 – General Information
Section 4 – Body and Trim
Section 5 – Accelerator and Brake Pedal Assemblies
Section 6 – Hydraulic and Park Brake Systems
Section 7 – Steering and Front Suspension
Section 8 – Wheels and Tires
Section 9 – Rear Suspension
Section 10 – Periodic Maintenance
Section 11a – Troubleshooting and Electrical System: Gasoline Vehicles
Section 11b – Troubleshooting and Electrical System: Diesel Vehicles
Section 12a – Electrical Components: Gasoline Vehicles
Section 12b – Electrical Components: Diesel Vehicles
Section 13a – Gasoline Engine, Muffler, Fuel System, and Clutches
Section 13b – Diesel Engine, Muffler, Fuel System, and Clutches
Section 14 – Drivetrain Components
Section 15 – Radiator and Coolant System (Diesel)
Section 16 – Transmission Models 420317 and 420682
Section 17 – Front Differential Models 6203-01-139-S and 6203-01-189-S
Section 18 – Rear Differential Models 420366 and 420851
Section 19 – Kubota D722 Diesel Engine Manual
Section 20 – Honda GX 620 Gasoline Engine Manual

MANUAL SPECIFICATION :

File Format : PDF
Language : English
Printable : Yes
Searchable : Yes
Bookmarked : Yes
P/N : 6903129 (12-09)
Total Pages : 584

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Section 1 – Safety
General Warning

Section 2 – Vehicle Specifications

Section 3 – General Information
General Information
Model Identification
Storage
Preparing the Vehicle for Extended Storage
1. Unload the vehicle so that the tires are supporting only the weight of the vehicle.
2. Store the vehicle in a cool, dry place. This will minimize battery self-discharge. If the battery appears to be weak, have it…
3. Make sure the key switch is in the OFF position and the Forward/Reverse handle is in the NEUTRAL position. Chock the wheels.
4. Prepare the fuel tank.
5. Remove both spark plugs and pour 1/2 ounce (14.2 mL) of SAE 10 weight oil through each of the two spark plug holes. Rotate the engine crankshaft by hand several times, then install both spark plugs.
6. Prepare the fuel tank.
7. Disconnect the battery cables, negative (-) cable first. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in Section 1 – Safety on page 1-2.
8. Change engine oil. See Engine Oil and Filter Change on page 10-7.
9. Batteries should be clean and free of corrosion. Wash tops and terminals of batteries with a solution of baking soda and wate…
10. Adjust the tires to the recommended tire pressure. See Section 8 – Wheels and Tires.
11. Perform semiannual periodic lubrication. See Periodic Lubrication Schedule on page 10-4.
12. Thoroughly clean the front body, rear body, seats, cargo bed, engine compartment, and underside of vehicle.
13. Do not engage the park brake. Chock the wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling.
Returning the Stored Vehicle to Service
1. Make sure the key switch is in the OFF position and the Forward/Reverse handle is in the NEUTRAL position. Chock the wheels.
2. Restore the fuel system to operation (Figure 3-2, Page 3-3 or Figure 3-3, Page 3-3).
3. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
4. Gasoline vehicles only: Completely open the fuel shut-off valve (Figure 3-4, Page 3-4). Ensure that the valve is fully open. …
5. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position. Crank the engine until fuel is pumped into the carburetor (gasoline vehicles) and the fuel lines and the engine starts. Turn the engine off. See following NOTE.
6. Perform the Pre-Operation and Daily Safety Checklist. See the Pre-Operation and Daily Safety Checklist in the vehicle owner’s manual.

Section 4 – Body and Trim
Cleaning the Vehicle
Seat Cleaning
Front Body Repair
Abrasions and Haze
Light Scratches
Large Scratches and Abrasions
Front Body Components
Instrument Panel Removal
1. Loosen and remove the seven Tuflok® screws from the instrument panel.
2. Pull the top of the instrument panel forward to access the panel rear.
3. Disconnect the wiring from components mounted on the instrument panel.
4. Gasoline vehicles: Remove the choke cable from the choke on the engine.
5. Remove the instrument panel.
Instrument Panel Installation
1. Connect the wiring to the electrical components mounted on the instrument panel. See Wiring Diagram on page 11a-6 (gasoline vehicles) or Wiring Diagram on page 11b-6 (diesel vehicles).
2. Gasoline vehicles: Connect the choke cable to the engine choke lever.
3. Secure the instrument panel to the dashboard with the seven Tuflok screws.
Dashboard Removal
1. Make sure the key switch is OFF and the Forward/Reverse handle is in the NEUTRAL position. Remove the key. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the steering wheel. See Steering Wheel Removal, Section 7, Page 7-1.
4. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 4-2.
5. Remove the five plastic caps from the point where dashboard and front body meet.
6. Remove the five Torx-head screws with special plastic washers from the top of the dashboard.
7. Remove the park brake release handle and jam nut from the park brake cable assembly.
8. Remove the knob from the Forward/Reverse shift handle.
9. Remove the seven Tuflok screws from the underside of the dashboard, and gently slide the dashboard away from the floor mat trim plate and frame.
10. Remove the 12-volt power plug wire harness.
11. Remove the dashboard from the vehicle.
Dashboard Installation
1. Position the dashboard over steering column and park brake cable assembly and locate attachment points. See following NOTE.
2. Install and tighten the five Torx-head screws with special plastic washers on the top side of the dashboard to 45 in-lb (5.1 N·m).
3. Install five plastic caps onto the screw heads.
4. Secure the underside of the dashboard with seven Tuflok screws.
5. Advance the park brake release handle to the jam nut, and tighten the nut to 50 in-lb (5.6 N·m).
6. Install the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Installation on page 4-4.
7. Install the knob onto the Forward/Reverse shifter handle.
8. Install the steering wheel. See Steering Wheel Installation, Section 7, Page 7-2.
Front Body Removal
1. Remove the five plastic caps from the point where dashboard and body meet.
2. Remove the five Torx-head screws with special plastic washers from the top of the dashboard.
3. Remove the seven Tuflok fasteners from underneath the dashboard.
4. Remove the six Tuflok fasteners: two from each side and two from the front of the body.
5. Disconnect the headlight wire harness from each headlight at each connector.
6. Lift the front edge of the body up, and pull forward to remove the body from the vehicle.
Front Body Installation
1. Position the front body on the vehicle frame, and locate the attachment points.
2. Connect the headlight wire harness to each headlight connector.
3. Secure the front body to the dashboard and frame with Torx screws that have special plastic washers, and tighten the hardware to 45 in-lb (5.1 N·m).
4. Install five plastic caps.
5. Secure the front body with six Tuflok fasteners.
Front Fender Removal
1. Remove the front body. See Front Body Removal on page 4-5.
2. Pull back the floor mat, and remove the two Torx-head screws securing the front fender to the floor.
3. Remove the screws from the fender support, and remove the fender.
Front Fender Installation
1. Position the fender on the body, and locate the attachment points.
2. Tighten the Torx screws at the upper frame support to 55 in-lb (6.2 N·m).
3. Tighten the Torx screws at the floorboard to 55 in-lb (6.2 N·m).
4. Install the front body. See Front Body Installation on page 4-5.
Roll-Over Protective Structure (ROPS)
ROPS Removal
1. Remove the lower four bolts (4), four washers (6), and four locknuts (5) that secure the top structure (1, 2, and 3) to the vehicle, and remove the top structure (Figure 4-4, Page 4-6).
2. Remove the two bolts (4), two washers (6), and two locknuts (5) that secure the two vertical front bars, (3) and remove the front bars (3) from the top structure (1).
3. Remove the two bolts (4), two washers (6), and two locknuts (5) that secure the two vertical rear bars (2), and remove the rear bars (2) from the top structure (1).
ROPS Installation
1. Install two rear vertical bars (2) on the top structure (1), and secure the bars with two bolts (4), two washers (6), and two locknuts (5). Tighten the hardware to 33 ft-lb (45 N·m).
2. Install the two front vertical bars (3) on the top structure (1), and secure the bars with two bolts (4), two washers (6), and two locknuts (5). Tighten the hardware to 33 ft-lb (45 N·m).
3. Install the top structure (1, 2, and 3) to the frame seat bars and front frame bars. Install four bolts (4), four washers (6), and four locknuts, and tighten the hardware to 33 ft-lb (45 N·m). See following WARNING.
Seat
Seat Removal
1. Lift the seat back up and forward to raise it.
2. Remove the seat by lifting the front edge hinges from the vehicle frame hinge slots.
Seat Adjustment
1. Passenger Seat
2. Driver Seat
Seat Installation
1. Align the hinges on the underside of the seat front edge with the hinge slots on the frame.
2. Push back and down on the seat back to secure the seat latch to the frame. See preceding WARNING.
Seat Frame Removal
1. Remove the bolts, washers, and flanged locknuts from the seat frame (7), seat side plates, and engine cover plate (Figure 4-4, Page 4-6).
2. Remove the seat frame.
Seat Frame Installation
1. Install the seat frame (7) (Figure 4-4, Page 4-6).
2. Secure the seat frame to the seat side plates with bolts, washers, and flanged locknuts. Tighten the hardware to 37 ft-lb (50 N·m).
Safety Belts
Safety Belt Removal
1. Remove the bolt from the base of the coiled safety belt assembly (outside location) (Figure 4-5, Page 4-8).
2. Remove the coiled safety belt assembly.
3. Remove the bolt from the center safety belt latch base assembly (center location) (Figure 4-6, Page 4-8).
4. Remove the safety belt latch base assembly.
Safety Belt Installation
1. Install the center safety belt latch base assembly to the center of the ROPS seat frame with a new thread- forming bolt. Orient the assembly with the latch end pointed up slightly, and tighten the hardware to 55 ft- lb (75 N·m).
2. Install the coiled safety belt assembly on the outside of the ROPS seat frame with a new thread-forming bolt. Orient the assembly with the tang end pointed up slightly, and tighten the hardware to 55 ft-lb (75 N·m).
Cargo Bed With Electric Lift
Testing the Bed Lift Motor
Bed Lift Motor Removal
1. Make sure the key switch is OFF and the Forward/Reverse handle is in the NEUTRAL position. Remove the key. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. With the bed in the down position, working from under the vehicle, disconnect the two wires from the connectors at the electric bed lift motor.
4. Remove the locknut, bolt, sleeve, spacers and washers from the rod end of the bed lift motor and bed frame.
5. Remove the locknut, bolt, sleeve, spacers and washers from the base of the bed lift motor and vehicle frame and remove the bed lift motor.
Bed Lift Motor Installation
1. Make sure the key switch is OFF and the Forward/Reverse handle is in the NEUTRAL position. Remove the key. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. With the bed in the down position, working from under the vehicle, mount the base of the bed lift motor to the frame bracket.
4. Attach the rod end of the bed lift motor to the bed frame bracket.
5. Tighten the locknut on the bed lift motor base to 30 ft-lb (41 N·m).
6. Attach the two electric wire connectors, red to red and yellow to yellow.
Cargo Bed Removal
1. Remove the electric actuator. See Bed Lift Motor Removal on page 4-9.
2. With the bed in a down position, working from under the rear of the vehicle, remove the two nylon locknuts from the cargo bed hinge and bolts.
3. Apply slight upward pressure on the rear of the bed to relieve pressure from the hinges. Remove the hinge bolts.
4. With the help from an additional person, or an overhead lift hoist, remove the bed from the vehicle.
Cargo Bed Installation
1. With the help from an additional person, or an overhead lift hoist, place the bed onto the vehicle frame and align the bed hinge brackets with the frame brackets.
2. Start the bolts into both hinges with the bolt heads to the outside. Use an alignment tool if necessary.
3. Use a small hammer, and lightly tap the bolts through the hinges.
4. Install a nylon locknut on each bolt, and tighten the hardware to 15 ft-lb (21 N·m).
5. Install the electric actuator. See Bed Lift Motor Installation on page 4-9.
Rear Fender
Rear Fender Removal
1. Remove the top Torx-head, self-tapping screw and washer.
2. Remove the three phillips-head side screws and washers from the rubber well nuts.
3. Remove the fender.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 to remove the remaining fender if necessary.
Rear Fender Installation
1. Loosely install the three phillips-head side screws and washers into the rubber well nuts.
2. Install the top Torx-head, self-tapping screw and washer. Tighten the hardware to 50 in-lb (5.6 N·m).
3. Tighten the phillips-head side screws and washers to 13 in-oz (91.8 N·mm).
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 to install the remaining fender if necessary.
Floor Mat
Floor Mat Removal
1. Lift the back edge of the floor mat, and slide the front edge down and away from the aluminum mat shield.
Floor Mat Installation
1. Slide the mat up and under the aluminum mat shield, and tuck the rear edge down against the seat panel.

Section 5 – Accelerator and Brake Pedal Assemblies
Accelerator Pedal
Accelerator Pedal Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position. Remove the key. Chock the rear wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the dashboard. See Dashboard Removal on page 4-4.
4. Disconnect the cable strain relief from the pedal bracket.
5. Disconnect the Z-shaped end (1) of the accelerator cable from the pedal (Figure 5-1, Page 5-1).
6. Remove the pedal assembly bolts and locknuts that secure the pedal assembly to the frame.
7. Slide out and twist the pedal to remove the pedal assembly from the frame.
8. Inspect the pedal bushings for wear and replace pedal assembly if worn.
9. Inspect the pedal and return spring hub bushings for excessive side-to-side movement. Replace the pedal assembly if either or both show signs of excessive wear.
Accelerator Pedal Installation
1. Twist the accelerator pedal assembly to return the pedal assembly into the frame location.
2. Position pedal between the frame members.
3. Secure the pedal assembly to the upper and lower frame member with bolts and locknuts.
4. Tighten hardware to 15 ft-lb (20.3 N·m).
5. Attach accelerator cable Z-shaped end to hole in pedal.
6. Adjust the accelerator pedal. See Accelerator Pedal and RPM Adjustment on page 5-2.
Accelerator Pedal and RPM Adjustment
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position. Chock the front and rear wheels.
2. Adjust the ground speed set screw to 3/4 inches (19 mm) as shown (Figure 5-3, Page 5-2).
3. Turn the key switch to start the engine. See following DANGER.
4. Press the accelerator pedal and allow the engine to achieve full, steady level RPM. See following NOTE.
5. Measure the engine RPM with a tachometer approved for this engine (CCI P/N AM 10753).
6. Release the accelerator pedal, turn the key switch to the OFF position, and remove the key.
7. Adjust the ground speed set screw against the spring to achieve proper RPM.
8. Adjust the screw until the RPM range is 3800-3850.
9. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Brake Pedal
Brake Pedal Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Remove the key, and chock the rear wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the dashboard. See Dashboard Removal on page 4-4.
4. Remove the rue pin and the clevis pin. Separate the clevis from the brake pedal (Figure 5-4, Page 5-3).
5. Remove the allen-head shoulder bolt and locknut from the pedal and frame brackets.
6. Remove the brake pedal.
7. Inspect the brake pedal bushing for wear and replace if necessary.
Brake Pedal Installation
1. Position the brake pedal between the frame brackets.
2. Install the allen-head shoulder bolt and locknut. Tighten the hardware to 4.8 ft-lb (6.5 N·m).
3. Install the master cylinder rod and threaded clevis pin assembly.
4. Install the clevis pin and the rue pin.
5. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Brake Pedal Adjustment
1. Loosen the master cylinder rod and clevis jam nut (Figure 5-4, Page 5-3).
2. Rotate the master cylinder rod to extend or retract the clevis and brake pedal to the desired position.
3. Tighten the jam nut to 14 ft-lb (19 N·m).
4. Perform all brake system inspections to ensure that the hydraulic brake system and the park brake system are adjusted and operating correctly before the vehicle is returned to service. See Brake System Inspection, Section 6, Page 6-1.
Park Brake Pedal
Park Brake Pedal Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Remove the key, and chock the rear wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 4-2.
4. Remove the dashboard. See Dashboard Removal on page 4-4.
5. Remove the retaining clip and washer from the brake cable. Remove the brake cable from the pedal bracket stud.
6. Remove the three hex drive washer-head bolts and locknuts that secure the park brake pedal assembly to the frame. Remove the park brake.
Park Brake Pedal Installation
1. Secure the park brake pedal assembly at three places with hex drive washer-head bolts and locknuts. Tighten the hardware to 15 ft-lb (20 N·m).
2. Install the cable end on the pedal bracket stud.
3. Install a washer and the brake cable C-clip on the pedal bracket stud.
4. Secure the park brake cable release handle to the dashboard, and loosely install a jam nut.
5. Install the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Installation on page 4-4.
6. Install the dashboard. See Dashboard Installation on page 4-4.
7. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Park Brake Cable Installation
1. Use a small, stiff brush to remove all dirt and debris from the ratchet teeth (1) (Figure 5-5, Page 5-4).
2. Feed the eye end of the cable through the pedal bracket until the cable sheath ferrule is secure in the pedal bracket and the tines secure the cable (Figure 5-5, Page 5-4).
3. Install the eye of the cable on the park brake assembly pin, and install the C-clip.
4. Secure the pedal return spring from the bracket frame to the park brake assembly pin.
Park Brake Cable Adjustment
1. Release the park brake, and advance the conical nut until slack is removed from all cables.
2. Push the park brake pedal until the pedal is firm and the brakes are locked.
3. With the vehicle on flat ground and the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, push the vehicle by hand. If the wheels move, tighten the conical nut until the vehicle does not move and the brake pedal locks the brakes at two to three clicks.
4. If the pedal travels more than three clicks to a brake lock position, complete steps 4.1 and 4.2.

Section 6 – Hydraulic and Park Brake Systems
Brake System Inspection
Brake System Troubleshooting
Brake Pads and Caliper
Front Brake Pad and Caliper Removal
1. Chock the rear wheels, set the park brake, loosen the front wheel lug nuts, and lift the front of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
2. Place jack stands under the front frame beams and lower onto stand (Figure 6-2, Page 6-6).
3. Remove the lug nuts and front wheel.
1. Remove the two socket-head slide-pin bolts securing the top and bottom of the two brake pads (Figure 6-3, Page 6-7).
2. Remove the brake pads.
1. Remove the banjo bolt and copper washers holding the brake line to the caliper body (Figure 6-4, Page 6-7). See following NOTE.
2. Place a plastic bag over the hose fitting to prevent dirt and debris from entering the hydraulic brake system.
3. Remove and discard the two hex-head bolts that secure the caliper assembly to the upright and remove the caliper.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the opposite front wheel if necessary.
Front Brake Pad and Caliper Installation
1. Secure the caliper body to the upright with two new lock-patch bolts tightened to 36 ft-lb (49 N·m).
2. Secure the brake line to the caliper with a new banjo bolt and new copper washers. Tighten to 13 ft-lb (18 N·m). See following CAUTION.
3. Bleed the brake line at the top bleed port on the caliper body. Tighten the port fitting to 27 in-lb (3 N·m). See following NOTE.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the opposite front wheel if necessary.
1. Install the brake pads and install the socket-head slide-pin bolts through top and bottom holes of pads. Tighten the hardware to 32 ft-lb (43 N·m).
2. Install the tire and wheel. Finger-tighten the lug nuts.
3. Lower the vehicle, and use a crisscross pattern to tighten the lug nuts to 85 ft-lb (115 N·m).
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the opposite front wheel.
5. Inspect the brake system. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-1.
Rear Brake Pad and Caliper Removal
1. Chock the front wheels, release the park brake, loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
2. Place jack stands under the rear axle and lower onto stands.
3. Remove lug nuts and rear wheel.
1. Remove the two socket-head slide-pin bolts securing the top and bottom of the two brake pads.
2. Remove the brake pads.
1. Remove the banjo bolt and copper washers that secure the brake line to the caliper body (Figure 6-6, Page 6-9). See following NOTE.
2. Place a plastic bag over the hose fitting to prevent dirt and debris from entering the hydraulic brake system.
3. Remove and discard the two hex-head bolts that secure the caliper assembly to the axle tube, and remove the caliper (Figure 6-5, Page 6-9).
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the opposite rear wheel if necessary.
Rear Brake Pad and Caliper Installation
1. Secure the caliper body to the axle tube with two new lock-patch bolts tightened to 36 ft-lb (49 N·m).
2. Secure the brake line to the caliper with a new banjo bolt and new copper washers. Tighten the hardware to 13 ft-lb (18 N·m). See following NOTE and CAUTION.
3. Bleed the brake line at the bleed port on the caliper body. See following NOTE.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the opposite rear wheel if necessary.
1. Install the brake pads, and install the socket-head slide-pin bolts through the top and bottom holes of the pads. Tighten the hardware to 32 ft-lb (43 N·m). See following NOTE.
2. Install the tire and wheel, and finger-tighten the lug nuts.
3. Lower the vehicle, and use a crisscross pattern to tighten the lug nuts to 85 ft-lb (115 N·m).
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the opposite rear wheel if necessary.
5. Inspect the brake system. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-1.
6. Adjust the parking brake. See Park Brake Adjustment on page 6-23.
Brake Disc and Hub
Front Wheel Disc and Hub Removal
1. Chock the rear wheels, set the park brake, loosen the front wheel lug nuts, and lift the front of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
2. Place jack stands under the front frame beam and lower onto stand (Figure 6-2, Page 6-6).
3. Remove the lug nuts and front wheel.
4. Remove the axle spindle nut and washer (Figure 6-7, Page 6-10). See following NOTE.
5. Remove and discard the two hex-head bolts that secure the caliper assembly to the upright (Figure 6-8, Page 6-10). See following CAUTION.
6. Remove the outer tie rod end from the upright.
7. Remove the lower ball joint from the upright (Figure 6-9, Page 6-11).
8. Remove the upper ball joint from the upright (Figure 6-10, Page 6-11). See following NOTE and CAUTION.
9. Remove the wheel hub, disc, and bearing assembly from the splined spindle and CV joint half shaft.
10. Remove the wheel hub and disc from the bearing and upright. See following CAUTION and NOTE.
11. Remove the snap ring (9) from the bearing cavity (7) in the upright (5) (Figure 6-12, Page 6-12).
12. Press the bearing out of the upright.
13. Install a new bearing on the disc and hub.
14. Install the snap ring (9) into the upright bearing cavity above the bearing (Figure 6-12, Page 6-12).
15. Press the shaft on the disc and hub into the bearing (Figure 6-15, Page 6-13).
16. The disc and hub shaft should be approximately 1/16 inch below the bearing inner race surface (Figure 6-16, Page 6-14).
Front Wheel Disc and Hub Installation
1. Inspect the ball joint boots for damage. Replace the ball joint and boot assemblies if necessary.
2. Apply anti-seize compound to the half-shaft and CV joint spindle spline area.
3. Slip the upright, wheel, and bearing assembly onto the CV joint spindle. See following CAUTION.
4. Apply anti-seize compound to the upper and lower ball joint stud studs.
5. Secure the upright, wheel, and bearing assembly to the upper ball joint. Use a new nylon locknut and tighten the hardware to 18 ft-lb (24 N·m).
6. Secure the upright, wheel, and bearing assembly to the lower ball joint. Use a new nylon locknut and tighten the hardware to 18 ft-lb (24 N·m).
7. Secure the outer tie rod end to the upright arm. Use a new nylon locknut and tighten the hardware to 70 ft-lb (95 N·m).
8. Inspect the brake pads for wear and replace if necessary. See Brake Disc and Pad Inspection on page 6-3. See Front Brake Pad Removal on page 6-6.
9. Install the brake caliper on the upright. See Front Brake Caliper Installation on page 6-7.
10. Install the brake pads. See Front Brake Pad Installation on page 6-7.
11. Install the hardened washer and new flanged spindle nut. Tighten, but do not torque the hardware to its finished value.
12. Install the tire and wheel, and finger-tighten the lug nuts.
13. Remove the jack stand. With the tires on the ground, use a crisscross pattern to tighten the lug nuts to 85 ft-lb (115 N·m).
14. Tighten the flanged spindle nut to 150 ft-lb (203 N·m).
15. Inspect the brake systems. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-1.
Rear Wheel Disc Removal
1. Chock the front wheels, release the park brake, and loosen the rear wheel lug nuts.
2. Remove the rubber dust cap.
3. Remove and discard the cotter pin.
4. Loosen and discard the castle nut on the axle spindle.
5. Lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
6. Place jack stands under the frame, and lower it onto the stands (Figure 6-17, Page 6-15).
7. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.
8. Remove the rear caliper from the axle tube. Secure the rear caliper to the respective swing arm assembly with wire ties to remove pressure from the fittings and brake line.
9. Slide the splined wheel disc and hub from the axle spindle (Figure 6-18, Page 6-15). See following NOTE.
10. Repeat steps 2 through 9 for the opposite rear wheel if necessary.
Rear Wheel Disc Installation
1. Clean the spline and threaded portion of the axle.
2. Apply anti-seize compound to both the axle and wheel hub splined area. See following CAUTION.
3. Apply a light coat of lubrication grease to the outside surface of the splined hub.
4. Slide the wheel hub onto the splined portion of the axle end. See following NOTE.
5. Install the large flat washer onto the threaded portion of the axle.
6. Install a new axle nut, and advance the nut to the large flat washer.
7. Install the rear caliper. See Rear Brake Caliper Installation on page 6-9. See following NOTE.
8. Install the rubber dust cap.
9. Install the tire and wheel, and loosely attach the lug nuts.
10. Raise the vehicle, remove the jack stands, and lower the vehicle.
11. Tighten the axle nut to 80 ft-lb (108 N·m). Position the locking cap and attach a new cotter pin.
12. Tighten the lug nuts to 85 ft-lb (115 N·m).
13. Repeat steps 1 through 12 for the opposite rear wheel if necessary.
Hydraulic Line Replacement
Front Brake Line Removal
1. Chock the rear wheels and set the park brake.
2. Remove the top screw caps and screws from the dashboard and front body.
3. Remove the front body from the vehicle. See Front Body Removal, Section 4, Page 4-5.
4. Use a flare-nut wrench to remove the front brake line at the master cylinder. See following NOTE.
5. Remove the front brake lines, banjo bolts, and copper washers at each front wheel caliper assembly.
6. Remove the two brake line support brackets and T-bracket from the frame.
7. Slide the front brake lines toward the front of the vehicle, away from the master cylinder.
Front Brake Line Installation
1. Feed the new front brake line under the front of the vehicle and up to the master cylinder.
2. Carefully insert the flared end of the brake line end into the master cylinder, and tighten the hardware to 132 in-lb (15 N·m).
3. Install the T-bracket on the frame, and tighten the hardware to 50 in-lb (5.6 N·m) (Figure 6-19, Page 6-18).
4. Install the two support brackets, and tighten the hardware to 50 in-lb (5.6 N·m) (Figure 6-20, Page 6-18).
5. Secure the hydraulic lines to the frame above the steering column shaft with wire ties.
6. Install brake lines, new banjo bolts, and new copper washers on each front wheel caliper. Position the lines between the nearest top bleeder port and the wheel upright. Tighten the hardware to 13 ft-lb (18 N·m). See following CAUTION.
7. Fill the reservoir of the master cylinder and bleed the hydraulic system. See Bleeding the Hydraulic Brake System on page 6-22.
8. Inspect the brake system. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-1. See following WARNING.
9. Install the front body. See Front Body Installation, Section 4, Page 4-5.
10. Secure the dashboard and front body to the frame. See Dashboard Installation, Section 4, Page 4-4.
Rear Brake Line Removal
1. Chock the front wheels and set the park brake.
2. Remove the top screw caps and screws from the dashboard and front body.
3. Remove the front body. See Front Body Removal, Section 4, Page 4-5.
4. Use a flare-nut wrench to remove the rear brake line at the master cylinder. See following NOTE.
5. Remove the brake lines, banjo bolts and copper washers from each rear caliper assembly. See following NOTE.
6. Remove each brake line from the grommet and clamp locations.
7. Remove the T-bracket from the passenger side on the rear receiver hitch frame.
8. Remove the brake line from the clamp locations under the vehicle frame and floorboard.
9. Remove the brake lines that are toward the rear of the vehicle on the passenger side. See following NOTE.
Rear Brake Line Installation
1. Feed a new brake line from the rear of the vehicle, and position it in line with the frame clamps and up to the master cylinder. See following NOTE.
2. Carefully install the flared end of the brake line into the master cylinder, and tighten to 11 in-lb (15 N·m).
3. Secure the brake lines to the clamp and grommet locations.
4. Secure the brake lines, banjo bolts, and new copper washers to each rear wheel caliper. Tighten the hardware to 13 ft-lb (18 N·m). See following NOTE.
5. Fill the reservoir of the master cylinder, and bleed the hydraulic system. See Bleeding the Hydraulic Brake System on page 6-22.
6. Perform all of the brake system inspections. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-1.
Master Cylinder and Reservoir
Filling the Hydraulic System
Reservoir Removal
1. Chock the wheels and set the park brake.
2. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 4, Page 4-2.
3. Remove dashboard. See Dashboard Removal, Section 4, Page 4-4.
4. Remove front body. See Front Body Removal, Section 4, Page 4-5.
5. Remove the hoses at the master cylinder. See following NOTE.
6. Remove the hoses at the reservoir.
7. Remove the bolt, washer and locknut that secure the reservoir container to the steering column frame plate, and remove the container.
Reservoir Installation
1. Secure the reservoir container to the steering column frame plate with a bolt, washer and locknut and tighten the hardware to 20 in-lb (2.2 N·m).
2. Install the hoses on the barbed fittings of the reservoir container.
3. Install the remaining loose hose ends on the barbed ports of the master cylinder. See following NOTE.
4. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid specified for this vehicle, and bleed the hydraulic brake system. See Bleeding the Hydraulic Brake System on page 6-22.
5. Inspect the brake system. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-1.
Master Cylinder Removal
1. Chock the wheels and set the park brake.
2. Remove the top screw caps and screws from the dashboard and front body.
3. Remove the front body. See Front Body Removal, Section 4, Page 4-5.
4. Remove the hoses from the master cylinder. See following NOTE.
5. Use a flare-nut wrench to remove the front and rear brake lines from the master cylinder. See following NOTE.
6. Remove the rue pin and clevis pin from the brake pedal and push rod clevis (Figure 6-21, Page 6-21).
7. Remove the two bolts and locknuts that secure the master cylinder to the frame.
8. Remove the master cylinder from the vehicle.
Master Cylinder Installation
1. Secure the master cylinder to the master cylinder bracket with two bolts and locknuts. Tighten the hardware to 16 ft-lb (22 N·m).
2. Loosen the jam nut on the push rod clevis, and secure the clevis to the brake pedal with a clevis pin and rue pin (Figure 6-21, Page 6-21).
3. Carefully secure the front and rear brake line flare fittings to the master cylinder. Finger-tighten the hardware.
4. Use a flare-nut wrench to tighten the brake line fittings to 11 ft-lb (15 N·m).
5. Secure the reservoir hoses to the master cylinder barbed connectors. See following NOTE.
6. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid specified for this vehicle, and bleed the hydraulic brake system. See Bleeding the Hydraulic Brake System on page 6-22.
7. Adjust the brake pedal stroke with the clevis and master cylinder push rod threaded connection. Tighten the jam nut to 14 ft-lb (19 N·m). See Brake Pedal Adjustment, Section 5, Page 5-4.
8. Inspect the brake system. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-1.
Bleeding the Hydraulic Brake System
1. Check the brake pedal and master cylinder push rod for proper adjustment before the brake system is bled. See Brake Pedal Adjustment, Section 5, Page 5-4.
2. Chock the front or rear wheels, release the park brake, and lift the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning on page 1-1.
3. Place jack stands under the outer front frame or under the rear axle tubes, and lower onto stands (Figure 6-2, Page 6-6).
4. Remove the cap from the master cylinder reservoir, and fill the reservoir with DOT 5 brake fluid.
5. Place, but do not tighten, the cap on the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Connect the vacuum-type brake bleeder (CCI P/N S0010702).
7. Tighten the cap on the master cylinder reservoir.
8. Properly dispose of the brake fluid in the vacuum type brake bleeder tool.
9. Inspect the brake system. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-1.
Purging the Hydraulic System
1. Perform steps 2 through 6.5 of Bleeding the Hydraulic Brake System, Section 6, Page 6-22.
2. Draw 1 qt. (0.9464 L) of the brake fluid into the vacuum-type brake bleeder tool.
3. With the vacuum running, tighten the two top bleeder valves.
4. Allow the handle on the brake bleeder tool to open, turning the vacuum system off.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the two remaining wheels.
Park Brake System
Park Brake Adjustment
1. Chock the wheels, release the park brake, and place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position.
2. Loosen, but do not remove the jam nut on the caliper park brake lever.
3. Thread in and finger-tighten the adjustment bolt.
4. Tighten the jam nut on the caliper lever to hold the adjustment bolt in place.
5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 for the opposite park brake assembly.
6. Inspect the brake system to ensure that both the hydraulic brake system and the park brake system are adjusted and operating correctly before the vehicle is returned to service. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-1.
Park Brake Cable Adjustment
1. Chock the wheels, release the park brake, and place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position.
2. With the park brake released, tighten the conical nut (23) until significant resistance is observed in the park brake cable (Figure 6-23, Page 6-25).
3. With the vehicle on flat ground and the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, push the park brake pedal seven clicks.
4. Push the vehicle by hand. If the wheels move easily when the vehicle is pushed, continue tightening the conical nut until the vehicle resists rolling easy and firm resistance is achieved.
5. Release the park brake pedal, and push it again to eight clicks. The vehicle should not be movable with one person pushing.
6. Tighten the equalizer jam nut against the conical nut and tighten to 55 in-lb (6.3 N·m).
7. Inspect the brake system to ensure that both the hydraulic brake system and the park brake system are adjusted and operating correctly before the vehicle is returned to service. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-1.
Park Brake Wheel Cables
1. Chock the rear wheels and release the park brake.
2. Remove the cable bracket from the air cleaner mounting bolt.
3. Remove the wire tie securing the cable to the frame.
4. Remove the C-clip from the right rear cable sheath adjacent to the caliper.
5. Slide the cable forward to release the sheath ferrule from the caliper bracket.
6. Move the cable up and toward the rear of the vehicle, and remove the cable from the caliper arm (Figure 6-22, Page 6-25).
7. Disconnect the threaded end of the cable from the frame bracket, and remove the cable (Figure 6-23, Page 6-25).
1. Chock the rear wheels and release the park brake.
2. Remove the cable from the plastic frame clip.
3. Remove the C-clip from the right rear cable sheath adjacent to the caliper.
4. Slide the cable forward to release the sheath ferrule from the caliper bracket.
5. Move the cable up and toward the rear of the vehicle to remove the cable end from the caliper arm (Figure 6-22, Page 6-25)
6. Squeeze the ferrule tines together on the cable end at the frame bracket, and remove the cable from the vehicle (Figure 6-23, Page 6-25).
1. Install the caliper end of the cable into the brake caliper arm (Figure 6-22, Page 6-25).
2. Slide the sheath ferrule through the hole in the caliper mounting bracket.
3. Install a C-clip to hold the cable ferrule in place.
4. Route the cable up and across the air filter box, and secure the cable bracket to the top bolt on the filter mounting bracket (Figure 6-24, Page 6-26).
5. Route the cable end to the outside of the air intake hose.
6. Secure the cable to the frame bracket at the outside hole (Figure 6-23, Page 6-25).
7. Insert the threaded end of the cable through the frame bracket. Use the nuts to adjust the cable end. Both cables should be equal in length. Tighten the nuts to 40 ft-lb (54 N·m).
8. Secure the cable to the frame with a wire tie.
9. Secure cable end to the equalizer bracket.
1. Install the caliper end of the cable into the brake caliper arm (Figure 6-22, Page 6-25).
2. Slide the sheath ferrule through the hole in the caliper mounting bracket.
3. Install a C-clip to hold the cable ferrule in place.
4. Route the cable to the inside of the air intake hose.
5. Secure the cable end to the equalizer bracket. See Equalizer Installation on page 6-27.
Front Park Brake Cable Removal
1. Chock the rear wheels and release the park brake.
2. Remove the dashboard. See Dashboard Removal, Section 4, Page 4-4.
3. Remove the spring from the driver side equalizer adjustment rod (Figure 6-23, Page 6-25).
4. Remove the nuts from the threaded adjustment rod on the cable end.
5. Remove the cotter pin and disconnect the front park brake cable end from the lower-most park brake bell crank (Figure 6-26, Page 6-27).
6. Release the tines securing the cable ferrule to the frame bracket and remove the cable from the vehicle.
1. Chock the wheels and release the park brake.
2. Remove the spring from the driver side equalizer adjustment rod (Figure 6-25, Page 6-27).
3. Remove the nuts from the threaded adjustment rod on the cable end.
4. Remove the rear park brake cables from the equalizer, and remove the equalizer.
1. Secure the equalizer to the ends of the rear park brake cables (Figure 6-25, Page 6-27).
2. Insert the threaded adjustment rod through the equalizer bracket.
3. Secure the conical nut to the cable with the cone oriented toward the equalizer. Tighten the nut until the cable is drawn snugly through the equalizer bracket.
4. Thread the jam nut onto the threaded portion of the equalizer rod so that it is beyond the spring retaining hole.
5. Secure the extension spring to the end of the threaded end of the cable and the vehicle frame.
6. Adjust the brake cable equalizer. See Park Brake Cable Adjustment on page 6-24.
Front Park Brake Cable Installation
1. Route the cable end up to the lower-most park brake bell crank and secure the cable ferrule to the frame bracket. See Front Park Brake Cable Removal on page 6-26.
2. Use a cotter pin to secure the front park brake cable end to the lower-most park brake bell crank.
3. Insert the threaded adjustment rod through the equalizer bracket (Figure 6-25, Page 6-27).
4. Install the conical nut with the cone oriented toward the equalizer, and then install a jam nut onto the threaded portion of the cable end. Advance both nuts a few turns.
5. Install the eye end of the cable onto the park brake assembly pin, and install the C-clip and washer.
6. Secure the spring from the end of the adjustment rod to the brake cable frame bracket.
7. Adjust the brake cable equalizer. See Park Brake Cable Adjustment on page 6-24.
8. Inspect all of the brake systems to ensure that both the hydraulic brake system and the park brake system are adjusted and operating correctly before the vehicle is returned to service. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-1.
9. Install the dashboard. See Dashboard Installation, Section 4, Page 4-4.

Section 7 – Steering and Front Suspension
Steering Wheel
Steering Wheel Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning on page 1-2.
3. Gasoline vehicles: Disconnect the spark plug wires.
4. Rotate steering wheel to a straight ahead position.
5. Gently pry the center cap from the steering wheel center.
6. Loosen the steering wheel bolt (18) approximately 1/4 inch (6mm). Do not remove the bolt (Figure 7-1, Page 7-2).
7. Remove the steering wheel. See following NOTE.
Steering Wheel Installation
1. Install the steering wheel on the hex portion of the steering shaft. Align the hex fitting of the wheel with the steering column shaft (Figure 7-1, Page 7-2).
2. Install the steering wheel bolt, and tighten the bolt to 13 ft-lb (17.6 N·m).
3. Install the steering wheel center cap, and align the snap tabs on the cap with provisions in the wheel.
4. Gasoline vehicles: Connect the spark plug wire.
5. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Steering Column
Steering Column Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the steering wheel. See Steering Wheel Removal on page 7-1.
4. Remove the dashboard. See Dashboard Removal, Section 4, Page 4-4.
5. Remove the front body. See Front Body Removal, Section 4, Page 4-5.
6. Loosen the top bolt from the steering column shaft at the universal joint (Figure 7-4, Page 7-3).
7. Remove the bottom bolt from the rack and pinion shaft at the universal joint.
8. Remove the three nuts from the steering column mount bolts.
9. Remove the steering column, and pull the shaft up through the hole in the splash guard.
Steering Column Installation
1. Slide the steering column through the frame opening and down through the hole in the splash guard.
2. Position the steering column against the dash mounting plate, and install new locknuts. Tighten the hardware to 22 ft-lb (30 N·m).
3. Align the flat portion of the shaft with the bolt side of the universal joint. See following NOTES.
4. Install the universal joint coupling bolt at the pinion shaft, and tighten the hardware to 18 ft-lb (24 N·m).
5. Tighten the steering column coupling bolt to 18 ft-lb (24 N·m).
6. Install the front body. See Front Body Installation, Section 4, Page 4-5.
7. Install the dashboard. See Dashboard Installation, Section 4, Page 4-4.
8. Install the steering wheel. See Steering Wheel Installation on page 7-2.
9. Gasoline vehicles: Connect the spark plug.
10. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Rack and Pinion
Rack and Pinion Removal
1. Chock the rear wheels, set the park brake, loosen the front wheel lug nuts, and lift the front of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
2. Place jack stands under the outer front frame beams, and lower the vehicle onto the stands. See Figure 6-2, Section 6, Page 6-6.
3. Remove the front wheels.
4. Remove the outer drag link ball joints from the upright assemblies and inspect for excessive wear and seal damage (Figure 7-5, Page 7-4).
5. Loosen the bolts on the steering universal joint that secure the steering column shaft and the rack and pinion shaft.
6. Remove the rack and pinion spline bolt, and slide the universal joint up on the steering column shaft away from the rack and pinion splined shaft.
7. Remove the four bolts from the rack and pinion steering assembly mounting bracket. Remove the rack and pinion assembly and the tie-rod assembly (Figure 7-6, Page 7-4).
Rack and Pinion Installation
1. Apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricant to the splined portion of the pinion shaft to minimize corrosion.
2. Position the rack and pinion base next to the mounting bracket, and install the four bolts. Tighten the hardware to 23 ft-lb (31 N·m) (Figure 7-6, Page 7-4).
3. Slide the universal joint down over the pinion. Align the flat-way on the pinion with the bolt path on the universal joint.
4. Install the universal bolt on the pinion shaft and tighten to 18 ft-lb (24 N·m).
5. Tighten the universal joint bolt on the steering column to 18 ft-lb (24 N·m).
6. Install both outer drag link ball joints, and advance the bolt approximately 6 threads. Do not tighten the jam nuts. Jam nuts will be tightened during alignment.
7. Install the outer drag link ball joints on each upright, and tighten the hardware to 70 ft-lb (95 N·m) (Figure 7-5, Page 7-4).
8. Align the front wheels, and adjust the toe-in and camber. See Wheel Alignment on page 7-11.
9. Adjust the outer drag link jam nuts, and tighten the hardware to 21 ft-lb (28.4 N·m).
10. Adjust the inner drag link jam nuts, and tighten the hardware to 21 ft-lb (28.4 N·m).
11. Remove the vehicle jack stands, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
Rack and Pinion Disassembly
1. Remove the rack and pinion and drag link assembly. See Rack and Pinion Removal on page 7-3.
2. Remove the two outer ball joints from the drag links (Figure 7-7, Page 7-5).
3. Remove both drag links (19) (Figure 7-8, Page 7-5).
4. Remove both bellows clamps (metal clamps or plastic wire ties) (Figure 7-9, Page 7-5). See following NOTE.
5. Remove the two hex nuts from the inner ball-joint ends, and remove both of the dust seal bellows.
6. Remove the rack screw nut (8), rack guide screw (7), rack guide pressure spring (6), and the rack guide (5) (Figure 7-16, Page 7-8).
7. Remove the dust seal (Figure 7-10, Page 7-6).
8. Remove the snap ring (4) (Figure 7-11, Page 7-6).
9. Install the universal joint on the pinion, and place a fork or a large open-end wrench under the universal joint (Figure 7-12, Page 7-6). Gently pry the pinion from the housing.
10. Remove the U-joint from the pinion.
11. If the pinion ball bearing has been damaged, remove the C-type stop ring (16) (Figure 7-11, Page 7-6), and use a press to remove the bearing (Figure 7-13, Page 7-6).
12. Inspect the bushing (17) and needle bearing (14) for excessive wear. If wear is excessive, replace the complete rack and pinion steering assembly (Figure 7-16, Page 7-8).
13. Inspect the inner ball joints for wear (Figure 7-16, Page 7-8). If either is excessively worn, replace both ball joints.
14. Remove the rack (2) from the housing (1) (Figure 7-16, Page 7-8).
Rack and Pinion Assembly
1. Apply a liberal amount of EP grease to the teeth of the rack (2), then slide the rack through the bushing (17) and housing (1) (Figure 7-16, Page 7-8).
2. If the pinion bearing (15) was removed, grease a new bearing before installation. Press the new bearing onto the pinion shaft, and exert all pressure on the inner race. Then install the C-type stop ring (16). See preceding CAUTION.
3. Install the pinion (3) and bearing (15) assembly into the housing (1). Ensure the gear teeth in the rack (2) will mesh with t…
4. Install the snap ring (4).
5. Use a socket to apply pressure evenly, and press in a new dust seal (Figure 7-17, Page 7-9).
6. Apply a small amount of grease to the rack guide (5) where it contacts the rack (2) (Figure 7-16, Page 7-8).
7. Install the ball joints (9) onto the rack (2). Secure the rack in a vise with wood blocks between the rack and the jaws of the vise to protect the rack from damage, and tighten the ball joints to 60 ft-lb (81 N·m) (Figure 7-20, Page 7-10).
8. Tap a flange into the notch on the rack.
9. Place a few drops of Loctite 222 on the threads of the screw (7) (Figure 7-18, Page 7-9).
10. Install the rack guide (5), pressure spring (6), and screw (7). Thread-in the screw until it bottoms out, and then unscrew it 1/4 turn (Figure 7-16, Page 7-8).
11. Insert a 3/8-inch, 1/4-drive deep-well socket into the steering column end of the universal joint (2), and tighten the bolts (1) to 15 ft-lb (20.3 N·m) (Figure 7-19, Page 7-10).
12. Connect a torque wrench to the 3/8-inch deep-well socket, and measure the resistance of the rack and pinion. Rotational resistance should measure 7 to 15 in-lb (0.8 to 1.7 N·m).
13. If the measured resistance is not 7 to 15 in-lb (0.8 to 1.7 N·m), adjust the screw (7) until the setting is correct. Tighten the nut (8) to 28 ft-lb (38 N·m) (Figure 7-18, Page 7-9). See following NOTE.
14. Install the two dust seal bellows (10) (Figure 7-9, Page 7-5).
15. Secure the bellows with new bellows clamps or wire ties.
16. Apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricating compound to the inner ball joint threads to minimize corrosion.
17. Loosely install and advance the two nuts and drag links to the inner ball joint (Figure 7-8, Page 7-5). Nuts will be tightened during the toe-in adjustment procedure. See Toe-in Measurement on page 7-12.
18. Apply a light coat of anti-seize lubricating compound to the drag link threads.
19. Loosely install the two nuts and drag link ball joints. Advance the ball joints and nuts onto the drag link ends (Figure 7-7, Page 7-5). Nuts will be tightened during the toe-in adjustment procedure. See Toe-in Measurement on page 7-12.
20. Install the rack and pinion assembly. See Rack and Pinion Installation on page 7-4.
Front Suspension
Wheel Alignment
1. On a level, hard, and smooth surface roll the vehicle forward, then stop. Make sure the front wheels are pointed straight ahead. See following NOTE.
2. Use a large carpenter’s square and position it a few inches (cm) away from the center of one wheel (Figure 7-21, Page 7-12).
3. Measure distance (A) between the edge of the square and a top location on the inside bead of the wheel rim. Record that measurement. See following NOTE.
4. Measure distance (B) in the same method as distance (A), using the same reference on a bottom location on the inside bead of the wheel. Record that measurement. See following NOTE.
5. The camber for this vehicle should be from 0.166 inch (4.2 mm) minimum to 0.275 inch (7.0 mm) maximum. See following NOTE.
1. Locate the bolts that secure the flat camber adjustment bar in position at the underside of the lower A- arm. Loosen the bolts just enough to allow the bar to move with some resistance (Figure 7-22, Page 7-12).
2. Insert the cam tool (CCI P/N 102447101) into the adjustment slot on the lower A-arm assembly.
3. Rotate the cam tool to adjust the bar until the desired dimension is achieved and the camber position is positive.
4. Tighten the camber adjustment bar bolts to 53 ft-lb (72 N·m).
5. Check the measurement on the camber, and repeat steps 1 through 4 if necessary.
6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 for the remaining front wheel.
1. On a level surface, roll the vehicle forward, then stop. Make sure the front wheels are pointed straight ahead. See following NOTE.
2. Mark each front tire at the center of the tread face that is facing the rear of the vehicle. The marks should be at the same height as the center of each hub. Measure the distance between the marks.
3. Roll the vehicle forward one-half wheel revolution until the marks appear on the forward facing surfaces of the tires at the same height as the center of each hub. Measure the distance between the marks (Figure 7-23, Page 7-12). See following NOTE.
4. Subtract the front face tire measurement from the rear face tire measurement. Proper toe-in is 3/8-inch (9.5 mm) ± 3/8-inch (9.5 mm).
1. Loosen the jam nuts on both ends of each drag link (Figure 7-24, Page 7-12).
2. Rotate both of the drag links equally. To increase the toe-in, rotate both drag links counterclockwise. To decrease the toe-i…
3. Tighten the jam nuts to 21 ft-lb (28 N·m).
4. Check the toe-in, and repeat the adjustment procedure if necessary.
5. After the toe-in adjustment is complete, the steering wheel should be at the center of its travel. If not, remove and correct the position so it is as close to center as possible. See Steering Wheel Installation on page 7-2.
Front Suspension Components
Steering Upright Removal
1. Chock the rear wheels, set the park brake, loosen the front wheel lug nuts, and lift the front of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
2. Loosen the front wheel spindle nut.
3. Place jack stands under the outer front frame beams, and lower the vehicle onto the stands. See Figure 6-2, Section 6, Page 6-6.
4. Remove the front tire and wheel.
5. Remove the front brake caliper. See Front Brake Pad and Caliper Removal, Section 6, Page 6-5.
6. Rest the brake caliper on the A-arm. Ensure that there is no strain on the brake hose. See following WARNING.
7. Remove the shock absorber.
8. Remove the drag link ball joint from the upright assembly (Figure 7-26, Page 7-14).
9. Remove the axle spindle locknut that secures the wheel hub, disc, and upright.
10. Remove the lower and upper ball joint locknut.
11. Swing the lower A-arm down, and separate the brake rotor and upright from the half-shaft and the upper ball joint.
12. Repeat steps 5 through 11 for the remaining front wheel if necessary.
Upper A-Arm Removal
1. Chock the rear wheels, set the park brake, loosen the front wheel lug nuts, and lift the front of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
2. Loosen the front wheel spindle nut.
3. Place jack stands under the outer front frame beams, and lower the vehicle onto the stands. See Figure 6-2, Section 6, Page 6-6.
4. Remove the front tire and wheel.
5. Remove the brake line bracket from the A-arm.
6. Remove the two bolts and locknuts from the bottom mount of the shock absorber, and remove the shock absorber.
7. Remove the nut from the ball joint (Figure 7-28, Page 7-14).
8. Remove the front and rear bolts, washers, and flanged locknuts from the A-arm and frame.
9. Remove the A-arm from the frame and bushings.
1. Inspect the ball joint. Replace the ball joint if it is worn, loose, or the rubber boot has been damaged.
2. Repeat step 1 for the remaining side if necessary.
1. Apply a 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) wide bead of Loctite 641 all the way around the face of the ball joint. Once the Loctite is applied…
2. Install the C-clip. Verify that the C-clip is seated in the groove of the ball joint.
3. Allow the Loctite to set up for at least 20 minutes before assembling the front suspension. See following NOTE.
Upper A-Arm Installation
1. Install a new A-arm if necessary.
2. Install new A-arm frame bushings. See following NOTE.
3. Slide the A-arm over the frame bushings, and locate the bolt alignment.
4. Install new bolts, washers, and new flanged locknuts in both the front and rear frame attachments. Tighten the hardware to 40 ft-lb (54 N·m).
5. Secure the brake line bracket to the A-arm, and tighten the hardware to 11 ft-lb (15 N·m).
6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 for the remaining side if necessary.
7. Align the front wheels, and adjust the toe-in and the camber. See Wheel Alignment on page 7-11.
Lower A-Arm Removal
1. Chock the rear wheels, set the park brake, loosen the front wheel lug nuts, and lift the front of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
2. Loosen the front wheel spindle nut.
3. Place jack stands under the outer front frame beams, and lower the vehicle onto the stands. See Figure 6-2, Section 6, Page 6-6.
4. Remove the front tire and wheel.
5. Remove the bolt, washer, and flanged locknut from the lower A-arm and frame.
6. Remove the A-arm from the frame and the bushings.
1. Inspect the ball joint. Replace the ball joint if it is worn, loose, or if the rubber boot is damaged.
2. Repeat step 1 for the remaining side if necessary.
1. Apply a 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) wide bead of Loctite 641 all the way around the face of the ball joint. Once the Loctite is applied…
2. Install the C-clip. Verify that the C-clip is seated in the groove of the ball joint.
3. Allow the Loctite to set up for at least 20 minutes before assembling the front suspension. See following NOTE.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the remaining side if necessary.
Lower A-Arm Installation
1. Install a new A-arm if required.
2. Install a new ball joint onto the A-arm. Be sure that the C-clip is seated in the groove of the A-arm (Figure 7-31, Page 7-16).
3. Install new A-arm frame bushings (Figure 7-33, Page 7-17). See following NOTE.
4. Slide the A-arm over the frame bushings, and locate the bolt alignment.
5. Install a new bolt, washer, and new flanged locknut. Tighten the hardware to 53 ft-lb (72 N·m).
6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 for the remaining side if necessary.
7. Align the front wheels, and adjust the toe-in and the camber. See Wheel Alignment on page 7-11.
Front Coil-Over Shock Absorber Removal
1. Chock the rear wheels, and set the park brake. Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels, and lift the front of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
2. Place jack stands under the lower A-frame plate, and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands (Figure 7-34, Page 7-19).
3. Remove the lug nuts, and remove the tires and wheels.
4. Place a floor jack under the lower A-arm at the lower ball joint, and raise the jack just enough to allow the A-arm assembly to rest on the jack.
5. Remove the flange-head bolts and flanged locknuts from the bottom of the shock mount. Separate the bottom of the shock absorber from the top A-arm assembly (Figure 7-35, Page 7-19).
6. Remove the bolt, flat washer, and flanged locknut from the top of the shock mount. Remove the shock absorber. See following NOTE.
7. Repeat steps 3 through 6 for the remaining shock absorber.
Front Coil-Over Shock Absorber Installation
1. Install the top of the shock mount on the vehicle frame with a bolt, flat washer, and flange-head locknut. Tighten the hardware to 73 ft-lb (99 N·m) (Figure 7-36, Page 7-19).
2. Install the bottom of the shock mount on the upper A-arm with two new flange-head bolts and flange- head locknuts. Tighten the hardware to 22 ft-lb (30 N·m) (Figure 7-35, Page 7-19).
3. Remove the floor jack.
4. Install the front tire and wheel. Finger-tighten the lug nuts.
5. Raise the vehicle, and remove the jack stands.
6. Tighten the lug nuts to 87 ft-lb (118 N·m).
7. Repeat steps 1 through 6 for the remaining shock absorber.
Steering Upright Installation
1. Slide the upright and wheel hub assembly onto the splined half shaft spindle. See following NOTE.
2. Loosely secure a large flat washer and new locknut to the spindle.
3. Install the lower ball joint onto the upright lower tab (Figure 7-27, Page 7-14).
4. Install a new locknut, and tighten the hardware to 18 ft-lb (24 N·m).
5. Install the upper ball joint on the upright upper tab (Figure 7-28, Page 7-14).
6. Install a new locknut, and tighten the hardware to 18 ft-lb (24 N·m).
7. Install the drag link ball joint on the tab (Figure 7-26, Page 7-14).
8. Secure the top end of the shock absorber to the frame with a new flanged bolt and a new locknut. Tighten the bolt to 73 ft-lb (99 N·m).
9. Secure the bottom end of the shock absorber to the A-arm with new flanged bolts and new flanged locknuts. Tighten the hardware to 22 ft-lb (30 N·m).
10. Install the caliper assembly on the upright with lock-patch hex head bolts, and tighten the hardware to 16 ft-lb (22 N·m).
11. Install the tire and wheel, and finger-tighten the lug nuts.
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Tighten the lug nuts to 85 ft-lb (115 N·m).
14. Tighten the spindle nut and washer to 150 ft-lb (203 N·m).
15. Align the front wheels, and adjust the toe-in and the camber. See Wheel Alignment on page 7-11.

Section 8 – Wheels and Tires
General Information
Wheels
Wheel Removal
1. Slightly loosen the lug nuts on the wheel to be removed.
2. Raise the end of the vehicle from which the wheel is to be removed. Make sure the wheels are off the ground. See WARNING “Lift only one end of the vehicle…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
Wheel Installation
1. Install the wheel(s), and use a crisscross pattern to tighten the lug nuts until they are snug. See following NOTE.
2. Lower the vehicle, and use a crisscross pattern to finish tightening the lug nuts to 85 ft-lb (115 N·m).
3. Inspect the brake hoses at the front wheels. When the steering wheel is turned all the way from left to right and back again, the hoses should not come in contact with any component, especially the wheels or tires.
4. Check the park brake cables. The cables should not come in contact with either of the rear wheels or tires.
Tires
Tire Removal
1. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. See Wheel Removal on page 8-2.
2. Remove the valve cap and valve core, and allow air to escape from the tire.
3. Use a tire machine to remove the tire from the rim.
Tire Installation
1. Use a tire machine to install the new tire on the rim.
2. Install the valve core.
3. Adjust the air pressure in the tire to the recommended pressure, and immerse the wheel and tire assembly in water to make sure there are no leaks. See General Information on page 8-1.
4. Install the valve cap.
5. Install the wheel. See Wheel Installation on page 8-2.

Section 9 – Rear Suspension
Rear Coil-Over Shock Absorber
1. Chock the front wheels, and loosen both rear wheel lug nuts. Lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
2. Place jack stands under the rear portion of the frame tubes, and lower the vehicle onto the stands (Figure 9-1, Page 9-2).
3. Remove the lug nuts from the wheels, and remove the tires and wheels.
4. Position the floor jack under the center of the hitch frame, and raise the jack arm until the pad touches the hitch frame.
5. Remove the hydraulic line rubber grommet from the brake line bracket (Figure 9-2, Page 9-2).
6. Remove the bottom bolt, flat washer, and flanged locknut.
7. Remove the top bolt, flat washer, and flanged locknut.
8. Remove the coil-over shock absorber. See following NOTE.
9. Repeat steps 5 through 8 for the remaining shock absorber.
1. Install the top bolt, flat washer, and a new locknut. Tighten the hardware to 73 ft-lb (99 N·m).
2. Secure the bottom of the shock mount to the driver side axle frame bracket with a bolt, flat washer, rubber grommet bracket, and a new locknut. Tighten the hardware to 73 ft-lb (99 N·m).
3. Install the hydraulic line rubber grommet in the shock bracket.
4. Install the rear tire and wheel. Finger-tighten the lug nuts.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the remaining rear coil spring and shock.
6. Raise the vehicle, and remove the jack stands.
7. Lower the floor jack from the hitch frame.
8. Tighten the lug nuts on both wheels to 85 ft-lb (115 N·m).
Swing Arms
Swing Arm Removal
1. Remove the rear axle. See Rear Axle Removal, Section 14, Page 14-8.
2. Remove the rue pin, locknut and washer from the swing arm pivot bolt (Figure 9-3, Page 9-3).
3. Remove the swing arm bolt and grease fitting (Figure 9-4, Page 9-3). See following NOTE.
4. Remove the swing arm.
5. Remove the urethane bushings and teflon impregnated steel sleeves from the swing arms.
6. Remove the urethane bushings from the swing arm brackets on the frame.
Swing Arm Installation
1. Replace the urethane bushings in the swing arm brackets on the frame.
2. Install new teflon impregnated steel sleeves into new swing arm urethane bushings.
3. Install the urethane bushings and teflon impregnated sleeves (as an assembly) into the swing arms.
4. Position the swing arm between the frame brackets and bracket bushings with the axle pad face down. Slide the swing arm pivot…
5. Install the washer and locknut on the pivot bolt and tighten to 14 ft-lb (18 N·m) (Figure 9-3, Page 9-3).
6. Attach a new rue pin to the pivot bolt.
7. Install the rear axle. See Rear Axle Installation, Section 14, Page 14-10.

Section 10 – Periodic Maintenance
Periodic Service Schedule
Periodic Lubrication Schedule
Brake Fluid Reservoir
Brake Fluid
Engine Oil
Oil Pressure – Gasoline Engine
Engine Oil Level Check
1. Remove the oil level dipstick from the oil filler tube and wipe oil from the dipstick (Figure 10-5, Page 10-7 or Figure 10-6, Page 10-7). See following CAUTION.
2. Check oil level by fully inserting the dipstick into the tube and immediately removing it.
3. If the oil level is at or below the low level mark on the dipstick gauge, add oil until the level is between low and full levels (safe level).
Engine Oil and Filter Change
1. Turn the key switch to the OFF position and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position. Chock the front wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in Section 1 – Safety on page 1-2.
3. Remove the oil filler cap to allow the oil to drain properly.
4. Position a pan designed for oil changes under the drain plug (1) (Figure 10-7, Page 10-8 or Figure 10-9, Page 10-8).
5. From the underside of the vehicle, use a 14mm socket or wrench to remove the drain plug (1). Turn the plug counterclockwise and drain the engine oil into the pan. See following WARNING.
6. Clean the oil drain plug threads with solvent to remove oil and oil residue. Make sure that the compression washer remains on the drain plug. Inspect the compression washer and replace if necessary.
7. Use a 14mm socket or wrench to replace the oil drain plug. Turn the plug clockwise and tighten to 29 ft- lb (40 N·m) for gasoline vehicles, 31 ft-lb (42 N·m) for diesel vehicles.
1. Drain the engine oil. See Engine Oil Draining on page 10-7.
2. Place the oil drain pan under the engine oil filter (2) (Figure 10-8, Page 10-8 or Figure 10-9, Page 10-8).
3. Remove the engine oil filter. Turn it counterclockwise and drain the residual oil in the filter port and filter into the oil drain pan. See following NOTE.
4. Use a clean, lint-free rag to wipe the oil filter port flange surface clean where the oil filter gasket seats.
5. To help seal the new oil filter to the engine oil filter port flange, apply a light coat of white lithium NLGI Number 2 greas…
6. Tighten the oil filter by hand 2/3 turn after gasket contact. Do not use a band wrench or channel lock pliers.
1. Add engine oil; use a funnel or pour spout to direct the oil into the opening (Figure 10-12, Page 10-10 or Figure 10-13, Page…
2. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
3. With the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, start and run the engine for a few minutes. Observe both the drain p…
4. Remove the dipstick and check the engine oil as a final step. Replace the dipstick.
Oil Viscosity
Gearcase Lubrication
Lubrication Level Check for Front Differential, Transmission, and Rear Differential
Lubrication Change for Front Differential, Transmission, and Rear Differential
Engine Coolant – Diesel Vehicles
Engine Coolant Level Check
1. Check the coolant level of the reserve tank (2). If the coolant is at or below the LOW mark, add water until level reaches the FULL mark. If a leak is detected, have it checked by a trained technician. See following WARNING.
Fueling Instructions
1. Remove the fuel cap and fill the tank with fuel. Gasoline vehicles have a black fuel cap; diesel vehicles have a green fuel cap. See preceding DANGER and following NOTE.
2. Replace the fuel cap. Ensure that the cap is tightened securely.
3. Clean any spilled fuel from the cap or around the fuel cap area.
Draining Water from Fuel Filter
1. Position a pan under the fuel filter.
2. Lift the passenger-side seat.
3. Locate the valve (1) on the underside of the filter. Turn the valve clockwise until water begins to stream from the filter.
4. Drain the water until it changes color (to fuel). See following WARNING.
5. Close the valve by rotating it counterclockwise until the valve is firmly sealed.
6. To resupply the filter with fuel, turn the key switch to the ON position for 10 seconds. See following NOTE.
Battery

Section 11a – Troubleshooting and Electrical System: Gasoline Vehicles
Troubleshooting Guide
Wiring Diagram
Test Procedures
Index of Test Procedures
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Check for loose or corroded battery terminal connections. Clean, tighten and replace connections as necessary.
3. Be sure that the battery has sufficient water to cover the plates by approximately 1/2-inch (13 mm) and is fully charged before the test. If water must be added, recharge the battery before performing the hydrometer test (Figure 11a-4, Page 11a-10).
4. Remove the vent cap.
5. Use a battery thermometer (CCI P/N 1011767) to record the electrolyte temperature of a center cell.
6. Use a hydrometer, and slowly draw an electrolyte sample (Figure 11a-3).
7. Ensure the float rises off the bottom. Adjust the electrolyte level so that the float rides free of the bottom but does not strike the bottom of the rubber bulb. Remove the hydrometer from the cell and release pressure from the bulb.
8. Hold the hydrometer vertically, and ensure that the float does not contact the sides of the glass tube. Hold the hydrometer at eye level and read the scale at the level of electrolyte (Figure 11a-3, Page 11a-10).
9. Record the reading.
10. Return the electrolyte to the cell from which it was taken. Replace vent cap.
11. Repeat steps 4 through 10 on all cells.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Check for loose or corroded battery terminal connections. Clean, tighten and replace connections as necessary.
3. Set the multimeter to the 20 VDC setting.
4. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals. If the reading is less than 12.4 volts, or if the lowest specific gravity r…
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Check for loose or corroded battery terminal connections. Clean, tighten and replace connections as necessary.
3. Connect a 160-ampere load tester to the battery posts. See following NOTE.
4. Turn the load tester switch to the ON position.
5. Read the battery voltage after the load tester has been turned ON for 15 seconds. The minimum acceptable battery voltage for proper engine starting is approximately 9.6 VDC.
6. If the battery voltage is acceptable, or if the electrical problem continues after the battery has been replaced, test the electrical circuits.
7. If the voltage reading exceeds 9.6 volts at 70 °F (21 °C) (electrolyte temperature), check the starter. See Section 20. See also the following NOTE.
8. If the reading is less than 9.6 volts at 70 °F (21 °C) (electrolyte temperature), check the battery electrolyte in each cell. See Test Procedure 1A – Hydrometer Test on page 11a-9.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the electrical component cover.
4. Ensure the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.
5. Remove the fuse to be tested from the fuse block.
6. Set a multimeter to 200 ohms, and connect the probes to the fuse terminals. The reading should indicate continuity. If there …
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Check the frame ground connection for loose connections and damaged terminals (Figure 11a-6, Page 11a-13). Repair or replace as required.
4. Check the negative (-) battery terminal and 6-gauge black wire (w81) for damage. Repair or replace as required.
5. Check the engine ground for a loose connection and damaged terminals where the two 6-gauge black wires (w81 and w82) are connected to the engine block (under the starter) (Figure 11a-7, Page 11a-13). Repair or replace as required.
6. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms.
7. Check for continuity between the 6-gauge wire (w81) terminal that was disconnected from the negative (-) battery terminal, and the frame.
8. Check for continuity between the 6-gauge wire (w81) terminal that was disconnected from the negative (-) battery terminal, and the engine.
9. The readings obtained in the previous steps should indicate continuity. If any of the readings are incorrect, clean and tighten wire connections. If the connections are good and the reading is incorrect, repair or replace the wire.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-4.
4. Ensure that the key switch connector is connected correctly and is tight. If it is not, repair or replace as necessary.
5. Turn the key switch ON. Place the red (+) probe of the multimeter on the (B) terminal and the black (-) probe on the (L) term…
6. With the key switch still in the ON position, place the red (+) probe of the multimeter on the (B) terminal and the black (-)…
7. Turn and hold the key switch in the START position. The reading should indicate continuity. If the reading does not indicate …
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-4.
4. Ensure that the key switch connector is connected correctly and is tight. If it is not, repair or replace as necessary.
5. Turn the key switch to the ON position. With the multimeter set to 200 ohms, place the red (+) probe on the (B) terminal and …
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the 16-gauge green wire (w58) from the starter solenoid coil to prevent the vehicle from unintentionally starting (Figure 11a-10, Page 11a-15). See following WARNING.
3. Set the multimeter to 20 VDC.
4. Place the probes to measure the voltage between the 16-gauge green wire (w58) terminal and the frame ground (Figure 11a-11, Page 11a-15).
5. Monitor the multimeter. The reading should indicate 0 volts with the key in the OFF and ON positions. The reading should indicate approximately 12 VDC when the key is in the START position.
6. If the readings differ from those described in step 5, perform the following test procedures:
7. If none of the previous steps resolves the problem, the starter solenoid and/or starter motor has failed. See Section 20.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the 16-gauge green wire (w58) from the starter solenoid coil to prevent the vehicle from unintentionally starting (Figure 11a-10, Page 11a-15). See following WARNING.
3. Set the multimeter to 20 VDC.
4. Place the probes to measure the voltage between the 16-gauge green start relay wire (w44) terminal and the frame ground (Figure 11a-12, Page 11a-16).
5. Monitor the multimeter. The reading should indicate 0 volts with the key in the OFF and ON positions. The reading should indicate approximately 12 VDC when the key is in the START position, and the relay should click. See following NOTE.
6. If the reading is 12 VDC and the relay does not click when the key switch is turned to the START position, replace the relay.
7. If the reading is 12 VDC and the relay clicks when the key is in the START position, check the relay contacts.
8. If the reading obtained in step 5 is not 12 VDC with the key in the START position, perform the following test procedures:
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the 16-gauge green wire (w58) from the starter solenoid coil to prevent the vehicle from unintentionally starting (Figure 11a-10, Page 11a-15). See following WARNING.
3. Set the multimeter to 20 VDC.
4. Place the probes to measure the voltage between the 18-gauge purple differential relay wire (w50) terminal and the frame ground.
5. Monitor the multimeter. The reading should indicate 0 volts with the key in the OFF position and the Forward/Reverse handle i…
6. If the reading indicates 12 VDC and the relay does not click when the key switch is in the ON position and the Forward/Reverse handle is in the NEUTRAL position, replace the relay.
7. If the reading indicates 12 VDC and the relay clicks when the key is in the ON position, check the relay contacts.
8. If the reading obtained in step 5 is not 12 VDC with the key in the ON position, perform the following test procedures:
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the front gearcase and the wire harness.
4. Set the multimeter to the diode test function (ç).
5. Connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to the frame (ground).
6. Connect the red (+) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge gray wire (w34) on the two-pin connector (wire harness side).
7. The reading should indicate an over limit (no continuity). If the diode conducts current (shows continuity) with the meter pr…
8. Reverse the multimeter probes and note the reading. The multimeter should indicate approximately 540 mV, however, a range of 400-700 mV is acceptable.
9. If the readings obtained in the previous steps are incorrect, replace the diode. See Wire Harness Diode Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-13.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the start relay from the multi-pin connector located on the electrical component mounting plate.
4. Disconnect the 18-gauge yellow wire (w39) from the carburetor solenoid bullet connector (Figure 11a-16, Page 11a-20).
5. Set the multimeter to the diode test function (ç).
6. Connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge light-green wire (w44) at the start relay multi-pin connector.
7. Connect the red (+) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge yellow wire (w39) at the bullet connector (wire harness side).
8. The reading should indicate an over limit (no continuity). If the diode conducts current (shows continuity) with the meter pr…
9. Reverse the multimeter probes and note the reading. The multimeter should indicate approximately 540 mV, however, a range of 400-700 mV is acceptable.
10. If the readings obtained in the previous steps are incorrect, replace the diode. See Wire Harness Diode Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-13.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the instrument panel, and disconnect the multi-pin connector from the key switch. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-4.
4. Disconnect the 18-gauge purple wire (w49) from the oil light.
5. Disconnect the 18-gauge blue wire (w53) from the fuel gauge/hour meter.
6. Remove the differential relay and the accessory relay from the multi-pin connector located on the electrical component mounting plate.
7. Set the multimeter to the diode test function (ç).
8. Connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge purple wire (w47) at the key switch multi- pin connector.
9. Connect the red (+) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge yellow wire (w39) at the bullet connector (wire harness side).
10. The reading should indicate an over limit (no continuity). If the diode conducts current (shows continuity) with the meter p…
11. Reverse the multimeter probes and note the reading. The multimeter should indicate approximately 540 mV, however, a range of 400-700 mV is acceptable.
12. If the readings obtained in the previous steps are incorrect, replace the diode. See Wire Harness Diode Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-13.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the start relay, differential relay, and accessory relay from the multi-pin connector located on the electrical component mounting plate.
4. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the neutral switch and the wire harness (Figure 11a-17, Page 11a-22).
5. Set the multimeter to the diode test function (ç).
6. Connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge black/white wire (w02) at the neutral switch two-pin connector.
7. Connect the red (+) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge black wire (w61) on the multi-pin differential relay connector located on the electrical component mounting plate.
8. The reading should indicate an over limit (no continuity). If the diode conducts current (shows continuity) with the meter pr…
9. Reverse the multimeter probes and note the reading. The multimeter should indicate approximately 540 mV, however, a range of 400-700 mV is acceptable.
10. If the readings obtained in the previous steps are incorrect, replace the diode. See Wire Harness Diode Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-13.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the start relay, differential relay, and accessory relay from the multi-pin connector located on the electrical component mounting plate.
4. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the neutral switch and the wire harness (Figure 11a-17, Page 11a-22).
5. Set the multimeter to the diode test function (ç).
6. Connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge black/white wire (w02) at the neutral switch two-pin connector.
7. Connect the red (+) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge black wire (w60) on the multi-pin start relay connector located on the electrical component mounting plate.
8. The reading should indicate an over limit (no continuity). If the diode conducts current (shows continuity) with the meter pr…
9. Reverse the multimeter probes and note the reading. The multimeter should indicate approximately 540 mV, however, a range of 400-700 mV is acceptable.
10. If the readings obtained in the previous steps are incorrect, replace the diode. See Wire Harness Diode Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-13.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the instrument panel, and disconnect the multi-pin connector from the key switch. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-4.
4. Disconnect the multi-pin connector between the voltage regulator and the wire harness.
5. Set the multimeter to the diode test function (ç).
6. Connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to the frame (ground).
7. Connect the red (+) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge yellow wire (w39) at the bullet connector (wire harness side).
8. The reading should indicate an over limit (no continuity). If the diode conducts current (shows continuity) with the meter pr…
9. Reverse the multimeter probes and note the reading. The multimeter should indicate approximately 540 mV, however, a range of 400-700 mV is acceptable.
10. If the readings obtained in the previous steps are incorrect, replace the diode. See Wire Harness Diode Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-13.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the instrument panel, and disconnect the multi-pin connector from the key switch. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-4.
4. Disconnect the multi-pin connector between the voltage regulator and the wire harness.
5. Disconnect the 16-gauge green wire (w58) from the starter solenoid coil (Figure 11a-10, Page 11a-15).
6. Set the multimeter to the diode test function (ç).
7. Connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to the frame (ground).
8. Connect the red (+) probe of the multimeter to the 16-gauge green wire (w58) at the bullet connector.
9. The reading should indicate an over limit (no continuity). If the diode conducts current (shows continuity) with the meter pr…
10. Reverse the multimeter probes and note the reading. The multimeter should indicate approximately 540 mV, however, a range of 400-700 mV is acceptable.
11. If the readings obtained in the previous steps are incorrect, replace the diode. See Wire Harness Diode Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-13.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the neutral switch and the wire harness (w02, and w56) (Figure 11a-17, Page 11a-22).
4. Check for continuity on the switch contacts with the Forward/Reverse handle in the FORWARD position (Figure 11a-18, Page 11a-24). The multimeter should indicate no continuity.
5. Check for continuity on the switch contacts with the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position (Figure 11a-19, Page 11a-24). The multimeter should indicate continuity.
6. Check for continuity on the switch contacts with the Forward/Reverse handle in the REVERSE position (Figure 11a-20, Page 11a-24). The multimeter should indicate no continuity.
7. If any of the continuity readings are incorrect, replace the neutral switch. See Neutral Switch Removal on page 12a-2.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. To test a wire for continuity, disconnect either end from the electrical component to which it is attached.
4. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms and place the red (+) probe on the terminal at one end of the wire. Place the black (-) probe …
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the wire harness and the front drive gearcase located under the front floorboard.
4. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms.
5. Measure the resistance between the two wires at the two-pin connector (front drive gearcase side).
6. The resistance should be 24.7 to 27.3 ohms.
7. If the resistance is not within the stated range, replace the large output cover sub-assembly. See Section 18.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the multi-pin connector between the voltage regulator and the wire harness.
4. Measure the resistance of the charge coil on the two blue wires at the voltage regulator multi-pin connector (harness side) (Figure 11a-21, Page 11a-26). The resistance should be small (less than 1 ohm).
5. If the resistance is high, or the multimeter indicates an over limit (no continuity), check the resistance at the two bullet connectors (engine side) close to the starter (Figure 11a-22, Page 11a-26).
6. If the resistance reading at the bullet connectors is less than 1 ohm, check for wire harness continuity on the blue wires (w…
7. If the resistance is high, or the multimeter indicates an over limit (no continuity), the coil has failed. See Section 20.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Ensure that the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.
3. Check the engine RPM setting to ensure that it is adjusted correctly. See Engine RPM Adjustment, Section 13a, Page 13a-25.
4. With the battery in good condition and fully charged, run the engine for several minutes to bring the voltage regulator to operating temperature.
5. Set the multimeter for 20 VDC.
6. With the engine running at full-governed RPM, measure the battery voltage at the battery posts. If the reading is between 14….
7. If the reading is less than 14.0 volts and not rising, check the charge coil. See Test Procedure 13 – Charge Coil on page 11a…
8. If the reading is more than 15.0 volts and continues to rise, replace voltage regulator. See Voltage Regulator Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-3.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Remove the spark plug wire from one of the spark plugs.
3. Use an ignition spark gap test tool (Thexton 404 or equivalent) to check for correct spark.
4. Adjust the tester probes to approximately 18,000 volts (18 Kv), setting (SE – Small Engine Setting on the Thexton 404 tool). Connect the tester to the spark plug wire, and connect the alligator clip to a solid engine ground.
5. If there is a strong blue spark between the probes of the spark gap tester, stop the engine, and perform the test on the remaining spark plug.
6. There should be a strong blue spark between the probes of the spark gap tester when both spark plug circuits are tested. If t…
7. If the spark gap tester tool indicates a strong blue spark, it is possible the spark plug has failed internally. Install a new spark plug set to the proper gap setting, and test the engine for proper operation. See Section 20.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect white/black wire bullet connector located near the starter (Figure 11a-23, Page 11a-28).
4. Connect the red (+) probe of the multimeter to the male bullet terminal on the white/black wire, and connect the black (-) probe to the vehicle frame (ground). The multimeter should indicate continuity with the key switch in the OFF position.
5. With the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, insert the key and turn the key switch to the ON position. Note the multimeter reading. Turn the key and hold it in the START position. Note the multimeter reading.
6. There should be no continuity when the key switch is in the ON or START position. If continuity is indicated, check for worn …
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the engine kill white/black wire (w38) at the bullet connector located near the starter (Figure 11a-23, Page 11a-28). See following NOTE.
3. Turn the key switch to the START position, and release it after the engine starts. If the engine starts and continues to idle, check the kill wire for grounding. See Test Procedure 16 – Engine Kill Wire on page 11a-27. See following WARNING.
4. Also check the key switch for proper operation. See Test Procedure 18 – Key Switch (Engine Kill Circuit) on page 11a-29. See preceding WARNING.
5. If the engine does not run, connect the white/black wire at the bullet connector located near the starter and proceed to Test Procedure 15 – Ignition Spark on page 11a-27.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-4.
4. Remove the connector from the key switch.
5. Place the red (+) probe on the (M) terminal and the black (-) probe on the (G) terminal. With the key switch OFF, the reading…
6. Reconnect the key switch to the wire harness. Ensure that the connector is connected correctly and is tight. If it is not, repair or replace as necessary.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Check for proper wiring and tight connections at the reverse warning buzzer and the reverse warning buzzer limit switch (Figure 11a-25, Page 11a-30).
3. Move the Forward/Reverse handle to REVERSE and listen for an audible click from the limit switch. If there is no click, check the switch for proper alignment and switch arm movement.
4. If the switch is being activated but the buzzer does not function, place the red (+) probe of the multimeter on one terminal …
5. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the REVERSE position to activate the limit switch. The multimeter should indicate continu…
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Check for proper wiring and tight connections. Use a multimeter to check for continuity through each individual wire that con…
1. Check the carburetor solenoid coil circuit.
2. Check the carburetor solenoid coil.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-4.
3. Ensure that the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.
4. Disconnect the 18-gauge black/white wire (w17) from the low oil warning light terminal.
5. Leave the 18-gauge purple wire (w49) connected to the low oil warning light.
6. Place a jumper wire on the terminal of the low oil warning light where the black/white wire was removed.
7. Touch the frame (ground) with the remaining end of the jumper wire.
8. Turn the key switch to the ON position. The low oil warning light should illuminate.
9. If the low oil warning light does not illuminate when the key switch is in the ON position, check the 18- gauge purple wire (…
10. If there is continuity between the 18-gauge purple wire (w49) at the low oil warning light and the 18-gauge purple wire (w47) at the key switch, replace the low oil warning light.
11. If the problem is not corrected by performing the previous steps, test the oil pressure switch. See Section 20.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Set the multimeter to 20 VDC.
3. Measure the voltage between the center contact and the outer contact of the power point receptacle. The voltage should be approximately 12 VDC.
4. If the voltage is not approximately 12 VDC, check the 10-amp fuse on wire 46 (w46) located on the electrical component mounting plate. See Test Procedure 2 – Fuse on page 11a-11.
5. If the fuse is good, check the continuity of the wires connected to the power point receptacle.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the orange wire from the center post of the fuel level sending unit.
4. With a multimeter set to 2k ohms, place the red (+) probe on the center post of the sending unit. Place the black (-) probe on the ground connection of the sending unit (Figure 11a-27, Page 11a-33).
5. The following resistance readings (in ohms) should be indicated, depending on the position of the float inside the fuel tank….
6. If the readings are within the specifications listed in the preceding table, the fuel level sending unit is working properly….
7. If the readings are correct and the fuel gauge does not function correctly, leave the battery disconnected and check the continuity of the following:
8. If the readings are correct according to the position of the float, but the reading on the fuel gauge/hour meter is incorrect, test the fuel gauge/hour meter. See Test Procedure 25 – Fuel Gauge on page 11a-34.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-4.
3. Disconnect the orange wire from the fuel gauge/hour meter.
4. Set a multimeter to 20 volts DC, and place the red (+) probe on the positive (+) post of the battery. Place the black (-) probe on the negative (-) post of the battery. Record the voltage reading.
5. Set a multimeter to 20 volts DC, and place the red (+) probe on the (2) terminal of the fuel gauge/hour meter where the blue …
6. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m).
7. Turn the key switch ON. The voltage reading should be the same as the battery voltage reading recorded earlier. If not, check the continuity of the blue and black wires (Figure 11a-28, Page 11a-34).
8. The orange wire should remain disconnected for this step. Place the black probe of the multimeter on the (3) terminal of the …
1. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Turn the key switch ON, and record the current hour meter reading.
3. Turn the key switch to the START position, and hold it until the engine is running smoothly. Release the key and it will return to the ON position. The engine should idle.
4. Allow the engine to idle for at least 6 minutes (the meter records in 6-minute increments). See following DANGER.
5. If the reading does not change after six minutes, check the low oil warning light and the oil pressure switch. See following NOTE. See also Test Procedure 22 – Low Oil Warning Light Circuit on page 11a-31.
6. If the hour meter still does not function after the low oil warning light, oil pressure switch, and all of the appropriate wires have been checked for continuity, replace the fuel gauge/hour meter.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-4.
4. Use a multimeter set to 20 volts DC, and place alligator clips on the multimeter probes. Connect the red (+) probe to the light switch terminal where the blue wire (w03) is connected (Figure 11a-30, Page 11a-36).
5. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first.
6. Connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to the negative (-) post of the battery.
7. With the light switch in the OFF position, the reading should indicate 0 volts. With the light in the ON position, the readin…
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Inspect the wires at the light bulb socket. Make sure the wires are securely fastened to the contacts inside the socket.
3. Remove the wire harness from the headlight (Figure 11a-31, Page 11a-37).
4. Use a multimeter set to 20 volts DC, and place the black (-) probe into the black wire terminal of the wire harness. Place the red (+) probe into the blue wire terminal.
5. Pull the light switch to the ON position. If the multimeter indicates approximately 12 volts, replace the headlight bulb.
6. If there is no voltage reading at the wire harness, check the continuity of the 16-gauge blue wire from the headlight to the light switch.
7. Check the continuity of the 16-gauge black wire from the headlight to the ground terminal.
8. If the readings are correct in all of the previous steps, replace the headlamp.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the red and yellow wires from the bed lift motor (Figure 11a-32, Page 11a-37).
3. Set a multimeter for 20 VDC.
4. Place the red probe in the bullet connector on the red wire (wire harness side), and place the black probe in the bullet connector on the black wire (wire harness side) (Figure 11a-33, Page 11a-38).
5. Have an assistant press the bed lift switch on the instrument panel in the UP position and monitor the multimeter:
6. Place the red probe in the bullet connector on the red wire (wire harness side), and place the black probe in the bullet connector on the black wire (wire harness side) (Figure 11a-34, Page 11a-38).
7. Have an assistant press the bed lift switch on the instrument panel in the DOWN position and monitor the multimeter:
8. If the bed lift motor does not function and the readings obtained in the previous steps are correct, the bed lift motor has failed and must be replaced. See Bed Lift Motor Removal, Section 4, Page 4-9.
1. Remove the bed lift switch. See Bed Lift Switch Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-14.
2. Check continuity between the terminals (Figure 11a-35, Page 11a-39) of the toggle switch and compare the readings with the To…
1. Remove the bed lift circuit breaker. See Bed Lift Circuit Breaker Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-15.
2. Place the red probe of the multimeter on the circuit breaker terminals. If the multimeter does not indicate continuity, replace the circuit breaker. See Bed Lift Circuit Breaker Installation, Section 12a, Page 12a-15.

Section 11b – Troubleshooting and Electrical System: Diesel Vehicles
Troubleshooting Guide
Wiring Diagram
Test Procedures
Index of Test Procedures
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Check for loose or corroded battery terminal connections. Clean, tighten and replace connections as necessary.
3. Be sure that the battery has sufficient water to cover the plates by approximately 1/2-inch (13 mm) and is fully charged before the test. If water must be added, recharge the battery before performing the hydrometer test (Figure 11b-4, Page 11b-10).
4. Remove the vent cap.
5. Use a battery thermometer (CCI P/N 1011767), to record the electrolyte temperature of a center cell.
6. Squeeze the rubber bulb of the hydrometer and insert it into the cell. Slowly release the bulb, drawing electrolyte up into the glass tube of the hydrometer.
7. Ensure the float rises off the bottom. Adjust the electrolyte level so that the float rides free of the bottom but does not strike the bottom of the rubber bulb. Remove the hydrometer from the cell and release pressure from the bulb.
8. Hold the hydrometer vertically, and ensure that the float does not contact the sides of the glass tube. Hold the hydrometer at eye level and read the scale at the level of electrolyte (Figure 11b-3, Page 11b-10).
9. Record the reading.
10. Return the electrolyte to the cell from which it was taken. Replace vent cap.
11. Repeat steps 4 through 10 on all cells.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Check for loose or corroded battery terminal connections. Clean, tighten and replace connections as necessary.
3. Set the multimeter to the 20 VDC setting.
4. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals. If the reading is less than 12.4 volts, or if the lowest specific gravity r…
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Check for loose or corroded battery terminal connections. Clean, tighten and replace connections as necessary.
3. Connect a 160-ampere load tester to the battery posts. See following NOTE.
4. Turn the load tester switch to the ON position.
5. Read the battery voltage after the load tester has been turned ON for 15 seconds. The minimum acceptable battery voltage for proper engine starting is approximately 9.6 VDC.
6. If the battery voltage is acceptable, or if the electrical problem continues after the battery has been replaced, test the electrical circuits.
7. If the voltage reading exceeds 9.6 volts at 70 °F (21 °C) (electrolyte temperature), check the starter. See Section 19. See also the following NOTE.
8. If the reading is less than 9.6 volts at 70 °F (21 °C) (electrolyte temperature), check the battery electrolyte in each cell. See Test Procedure 1A – Hydrometer Test on page 11b-9.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the electrical component cover.
4. Ensure the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.
5. Remove the fuse to be tested from the fuse block.
6. Connect the probes of a multimeter set to 200 ohms to the fuse terminals. The reading should be continuity. If there is no co…
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Check the frame ground connection for loose connections and damaged terminals (Figure 11b-6, Page 11b-13). Repair or replace as required.
4. Check the negative (-) battery terminal and 6-gauge black wire (w92) for damage. Repair or replace as required.
5. Check the engine ground for a loose connection and damaged terminals where the two 6-gauge black wires (w92 and w93) are connected to the engine block (under the starter) (Figure 11b-7, Page 11b-13). Repair or replace as required.
6. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms.
7. Check for continuity between the 6-gauge wire (w92) terminal that was disconnected from the negative battery terminal, and the frame.
8. Check for continuity between the 6-gauge wire (w92) terminal that was disconnected from the negative battery terminal, and the engine.
9. The readings obtained in the previous steps should indicate continuity. If any of the readings are incorrect, clean and tighten wire connections. If the connections are good and the reading is incorrect, repair or replace the wire.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-4.
4. Ensure that the key switch connectors are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, repair or replace as necessary.
5. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms.
6. Check the PR and GR key switch terminals.
7. Check the BATT and ST terminals.
8. Check the BATT and IGN terminals.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-4.
4. Ensure that the key switch connectors are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, repair or replace as necessary.
5. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms.
6. Check the BATT and IGN terminals.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-4.
4. Ensure that the key switch connectors are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, repair or replace as necessary.
5. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms.
6. Check the BATT and ACC terminals.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the 16-gauge green wire (w58) from the starter solenoid coil to prevent the vehicle from unintentionally starting (Figure 11b-9, Page 11b-16). See following WARNING.
3. Set the multimeter to 20 VDC.
4. Place the probes to measure the voltage between the 16-gauge green wire (w58) terminal and the frame ground (Figure 11b-10, Page 11b-16).
5. Monitor the multimeter. The reading should indicate 0 volts with the key in the OFF and ON positions. The reading should indicate approximately 12 VDC when the key is in the START position.
6. If the readings differ from those described in step 5, perform the following test procedures:
7. If none of the previous steps resolves the problem, the starter solenoid and/or starter motor has failed. See Section 19.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the 16-gauge green wire (w58) from the starter solenoid coil to prevent the vehicle from unintentionally starting (Figure 11b-9, Page 11b-16). See following WARNING.
3. Set the multimeter to 20 VDC.
4. Place the probes to measure the voltage between the 16-gauge green start relay wire (w44) terminal and the frame ground (Figure 11b-11, Page 11b-16).
5. Monitor the multimeter. The reading should indicate 0 volts with the key in the OFF and ON positions. The reading should indicate approximately 12 VDC when the key is in the START position and the relay should click. See following NOTE.
6. If the reading is 12 VDC and the relay does not click when the key switch is turned to the START position, replace the relay.
7. If the reading is 12 VDC and the relay clicks when the key is in the START position, check the relay contacts.
8. If the reading obtained in step 5 is not 12 VDC with the key in the START position, perform the following test procedures:
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the 16-gauge green wire (w58) from the starter solenoid coil to prevent the vehicle from unintentionally starting (Figure 11b-9, Page 11b-16). See following WARNING.
3. Set the multimeter to 20 VDC.
4. Place the probes to measure the voltage between the 18-gauge purple differential relay wire (w50) terminal and the frame ground.
5. Monitor the multimeter. The reading should indicate 0 volts with the key in the OFF position and the Forward/Reverse handle i…
6. If the reading is 12 VDC and the relay does not click with the key switch in the ON position and the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position, replace the relay.
7. If the reading is 12 VDC and the relay clicks when the key is in the ON position, check the relay contacts.
8. If the reading obtained in step 5 is not 12 VDC with the key in the ON position, perform the following test procedures:
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the 16-gauge green wire (w58) from the starter solenoid coil to prevent the vehicle from unintentionally starting (Figure 11b-9, Page 11b-16). See following WARNING.
3. Set the multimeter to 20 VDC.
4. Place the probes to measure the voltage between the 18-gauge yellow fan relay wire (w81) terminal and the frame ground.
5. Monitor the multimeter. The reading should indicate 0 volts with the key in the OFF position. The reading should indicate approximately 12 VDC when the key is in the ON position and the fan relay should click. See following NOTE.
6. If the reading is 12 VDC and the relay does not click when the key switch is in the ON position, replace the relay.
7. If the reading is 12 VDC and the relay clicks when the key is in the ON position, check the relay contacts.
8. If the reading obtained in step 5 is not 12 VDC with the key in the ON position, perform the following test procedures:
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the thermostat switch and the wire harness (Figure 11b-17, Page 11b-21). See following WARNING.
3. Unscrew the thermostat switch from the engine block. See preceding WARNING.
4. Test for failed switches in closed condition.
5. Test the fan control thermostat switch.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Remove the front body. See Front Body Removal on page 4-5.
3. Disconnect the two-pin connector from the fan motor (Figure 11b-19, Page 11b-23).
4. Disconnect the two-pin connector from the thermostat switch (Figure 11b-20, Page 11b-23).
5. Place a jumper wire between the frame and the 18-gauge yellow/black wire at the two-pin connector disconnected from the thermostat switch.
6. Set a multimeter to measure 20 VDC.
7. Place the multimeter probes into each terminal of the two-pin connector disconnected from the fan motor (wire harness side).
8. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first.
9. Leave the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position.
10. Monitor the multimeter while turning the key switch to the ON position. The multimeter should indicate 0 (zero) VDC with the key in the OFF position, and approximately 12 VDC with the key switch in the ON position.
11. If the voltage reading is approximately 12 VDC with the key switch in the OFF position, check the fan relay for proper wiring and function. See Test Procedure 10 – Fan Relay on page 11b-19.
12. If the voltage reading is not approximately 12 VDC with the key switch in the ON position, check the following:
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the front gearcase and the wire harness.
4. Set the multimeter to the diode test function (ç).
5. Connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to the frame (ground).
6. Connect the red (+) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge gray wire (w34) on the two-pin connector (wire harness side).
7. The reading should indicate an over limit (no continuity). If the diode conducts current (shows continuity) with the meter pr…
8. Reverse the multimeter probes and note the reading. The multimeter should indicate approximately 540 mV, however, a range of 400-700 mV is acceptable.
9. If the readings obtained in the previous steps are incorrect, replace the diode. See Wire Harness Diode Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-18.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the front body. See Front Body Removal on page 4-5.
4. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the fan and the wire harness (Figure 11b-19, Page 11b-23).
5. Set the multimeter to the diode test function (ç).
6. Connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to the frame (ground).
7. Connect the red (+) probe of the multimeter to the 14-gauge blue wire (w66) on the two-pin connector (wire harness side).
8. The reading should indicate an over limit (no continuity). If the diode conducts current (shows continuity) with the meter pr…
9. Reverse the multimeter probes and note the reading. The multimeter should indicate approximately 540 mV, however, a range of 400-700 mV is acceptable.
10. If the readings obtained in the previous steps are incorrect, replace the diode. See Wire Harness Diode Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-18.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the start relay, differential relay, fan relay, and accessory relay from the multi-pin connector located on the electrical component mounting plate.
4. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the neutral switch and the wire harness (Figure 11b-21, Page 11b-26).
5. Set the multimeter to the diode test function (ç).
6. Connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge black/white wire (w79) at the neutral switch two-pin connector.
7. Connect the red (+) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge black wire (w61) on the multi-pin differential relay connector located on the electrical component mounting plate.
8. The reading should indicate an over limit (no continuity). If the diode conducts current (shows continuity) with the meter pr…
9. Reverse the multimeter probes and note the reading. The multimeter should indicate approximately 540 mV, however, a range of 400-700 mV is acceptable.
10. If the readings obtained in the previous steps are incorrect, replace the diode. See Wire Harness Diode Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-18.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the start relay, differential relay, fan relay, and accessory relay from the multi-pin connector located on the electrical component mounting plate.
4. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the neutral switch and the wire harness (Figure 11b-21, Page 11b-26).
5. Set the multimeter to the diode test function (ç).
6. Connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge black/white wire (w79) at the neutral switch two-pin connector.
7. Connect the red (+) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge black wire (w60) on the multi-pin start relay connector located on the electrical component mounting plate.
8. The reading should indicate an over limit (no continuity). If the diode conducts current (shows continuity) with the meter pr…
9. Reverse the multimeter probes and note the reading. The multimeter should read approximately 540 mV, however, a range of 400-700 mV is acceptable.
10. If the readings obtained in the previous steps are incorrect, replace the diode. See Wire Harness Diode Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-18.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Open the dashboard access door (Figure 11b-22, Page 11b-28).
4. Disconnect the multi-pin connector from the key switch (Figure 11b-23, Page 11b-28). See following NOTE.
5. Remove the differential relay from the socket on the electrical component mounting plate (Figure 11b-24, Page 11b-28).
6. Disconnect the three-pin connector between the fuel solenoid and the wire harness (Figure 11b-25, Page 11b-28).
7. Disconnect the bullet connector between the fuel pump and the wire harness (Figure 11b-26, Page 11b-29).
8. Set the multimeter to the diode test function (ç).
9. Connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to the frame (ground).
10. Connect the red (+) probe of the multimeter to the 18-gauge gray wire (w40) at the bullet connector (wire harness side).
11. The reading should indicate an over limit (no continuity). If the diode conducts current (shows continuity) with the meter p…
12. Reverse the multimeter probes and note the reading. The multimeter should indicate approximately 540 mV, however, a range of 400-700 mV is acceptable.
13. If the readings obtained in the previous steps are incorrect, replace the diode. See Wire Harness Diode Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-18.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the 16-gauge green wire (w58) from the starter solenoid coil (Figure 11b-9, Page 11b-16).
4. Set the multimeter to the diode test function (ç).
5. Connect the black (-) probe to the frame (ground).
6. Connect the red (+) probe to the 16-gauge green wire (w58) at the connector.
7. The reading should indicate an over limit (no continuity). If the diode conducts current (shows continuity) with the meter pr…
8. Reverse the multimeter probes and note the reading. The multimeter should indicate approximately 540 mV, however, a range of 400-700 mV is acceptable.
9. If the readings obtained in the previous steps are incorrect, replace the diode. See Wire Harness Diode Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-18.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the neutral switch and the wire harness (w78, and w79) (Figure 11b-21, Page 11b-26).
4. Check for continuity on the switch contacts with the Forward/Reverse handle in the FORWARD position (Figure 11b-27, Page 11b-30). The multimeter should indicate no continuity.
5. Check for continuity on the switch contacts with the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position (Figure 11b-28, Page 11b-31). The multimeter should indicate continuity.
6. Check for continuity on the switch contacts with the Forward/Reverse handle in the REVERSE position (Figure 11b-28, Page 11b-31). The multimeter should indicate no continuity.
7. If any of the continuity readings are incorrect, replace the neutral switch. See Neutral Switch Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-2.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. To test a wire for continuity, disconnect either end from the electrical component to which it is attached.
4. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms and place the red (+) probe on the terminal at one end of the wire. Place the black (-) probe …
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the wire harness and the front drive gearcase located under the front floorboard.
4. Set the multimeter to 200 ohms.
5. Measure the resistance between the two wires at the two-pin connector (front drive gearcase side).
6. The resistance should be 24.7 to 27.3 ohms.
7. If the resistance is not within the stated range, replace the large output cover sub-assembly. See Section 18.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Ensure that the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.
3. Check the engine RPM setting to ensure that it is adjusted correctly. See Engine RPM Adjustment, Section 13b, Page 13b-22.
4. With the battery in good condition and fully charged, run the engine for several minutes to bring the voltage regulator to operating temperature.
5. Set the multimeter for 20 VDC.
6. With the engine running at full-governed RPM, measure the battery voltage at the battery posts. If the reading is between 14….
7. If the reading is less than 14.2 volts and not rising or higher than 14.8 volts, replace the alternator.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Remove the electrical component cover, and locate the 50-amp circuit breaker on the electrical component mounting plate (Figure 11b-30, Page 11b-32).
3. Ensure that the wires at the 50-amp circuit breaker and the large post of the starter solenoid are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.
4. Set the multimeter to 20 VDC.
5. Place the black (-) probe on the frame (ground).
6. Place the red (+) probe on one of the studs of the 50-amp circuit breaker. The reading should indicate approximately 12 VDC (or full battery voltage).
7. Place the red (+) probe on the remaining stud of the 50-amp circuit breaker. The reading should indicate approximately 12 VDC (or full battery voltage).
8. If the multimeter indicated voltage on only one of the circuit breaker studs, the circuit breaker has failed and must be replaced. See 50-Amp Circuit Breaker Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-3.
9. If the multimeter did not indicate voltage on either of the circuit breaker studs, check the following:
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the two-pin connector from the thermostat switch (Figure 11b-20, Page 11b-23).
3. Place a jumper wire between the frame and the 18-gauge Green/White wire at the two-pin connector disconnected from the thermostat switch.
4. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-4.
5. Disconnect the two wires connected to the engine coolant high-temperature light.
6. Set a multimeter to 20 VDC.
7. Place the multimeter probes into each terminal disconnected from the engine coolant high-temperature light.
8. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first.
9. Leave the Forward/Reverse handle in the NEUTRAL position.
10. Monitor the multimeter while turning the key switch to the ON position. The multimeter should indicate 0 (zero) VDC with the key in the OFF position and approximately 12 VDC with the key switch in the ON position.
11. If the voltage reading is approximately 12 VDC with the key switch in the OFF position, check the key switch for proper wiring and function. See Test Procedure 5 – Key Switch (ON Position) on page 11b-14.
12. If the voltage reading obtained in step 10 is correct, check the filament of the engine coolant high-temperature light.
13. If the voltage reading obtained in step 10 is not approximately 12 VDC with the key switch in the ON position, check the following:
1. Turn the key switch OFF. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Set a multimeter to 20 VDC.
3. Place the red (+) probe on the wire terminal where the 12-gauge blue wire (w28) connects to the glow plug and glow plug buss bar (Figure 11b-32, Page 11b-35).
4. Place the black (-) probe on the frame or engine block (ground).
5. The multimeter should indicate 0 VDC with the key in the OFF position.
6. Monitor the multimeter, and turn the key to the PREHEAT position. Hold it for 5 seconds. The multimeter should indicate 11 to 12 VDC.
7. If the readings in the previous two steps are incorrect, check the following:
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Check for proper wiring and tight connections at the reverse warning buzzer and the reverse warning buzzer limit switch (Figure 11b-33, Page 11b-36).
3. Move the Forward/Reverse handle to REVERSE and listen for an audible click from the limit switch. If there is no click, check the switch for proper alignment and switch arm movement.
4. If the switch is being activated but the buzzer does not function, place the red (+) probe of the multimeter on one terminal …
5. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the REVERSE position to activate the limit switch. The multimeter should indicate continu…
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Check for proper wiring and tight connections. Use a multimeter, and check for continuity through each wire that connects to …
1. Turn the key switch OFF. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the three-pin connector between the fuel solenoid and the wire harness (Figure 11b-25, Page 11b-28).
3. Set a multimeter to 20 VDC.
4. Place the red (+) probe on the 14-gauge blue wire (w43) of the three-pin connector at the fuel solenoid (wire harness side).
5. Place the black (-) probe on the frame or engine block (ground).
6. The multimeter should indicate 0 VDC with the key in the OFF position.
7. Monitor the multimeter, and turn the key switch to the ON position. The multimeter should indicate 0 VDC.
8. Monitor the multimeter, and turn the key switch to the START position. The multimeter should indicate between 10 and 11.5 VDC.
9. If the reading obtained in the previous step is correct, and the fuel solenoid does not operate correctly, replace the fuel solenoid. See Section 19.
10. If any of the above readings is incorrect, check the following items:
1. Turn the key switch OFF. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the three-pin connector between the fuel solenoid and the wire harness (Figure 11b-25, Page 11b-28).
3. Set a multimeter to 20 VDC.
4. Place the red (+) probe on the 18-gauge gray wire (w41) of the three-pin connector at the fuel solenoid (wire harness side).
5. Place the black (-) probe on the frame or engine block (ground).
6. The multimeter should indicate 0 VDC with the key switch in the OFF position.
7. Monitor the multimeter, and turn the key switch to the ON position. The multimeter should indicate approximately 12 VDC.
8. If the reading obtained in the previous step is correct, and the fuel solenoid does not operate correctly, replace the fuel solenoid. See Section 19.
9. If any of the above readings is incorrect, check the following items:
1. Turn the key switch OFF. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the bullet connector between the fuel pump and the wire harness (Figure 11b-26, Page 11b-29).
3. Set a multimeter to 20 VDC.
4. Place the red (+) probe on the 18-gauge gray wire (w40) disconnected from the fuel pump (wire harness side).
5. Place the black (-) probe on the frame or engine block (ground).
6. The multimeter should indicate 0 (zero) VDC with the key switch in the OFF position.
7. Monitor the multimeter, and turn the key switch to the ON position. The multimeter should indicate approximately 12 VDC with the key in the ON position.
8. If the reading obtained in the previous step is correct and the fuel pump does not operate correctly, replace the fuel pump. See Fuel Pump Removal, Section 13b, Page 13b-12.
9. If any of the above readings is incorrect, check the following items:
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-4.
3. Ensure that the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.
4. Disconnect the 18-gauge black/white wire (w17) from the low oil warning light terminal.
5. Leave the 18-gauge purple wire (w49) connected to the low oil warning light.
6. Place a jumper wire on the terminal of the low oil warning light where the black/white wire was removed.
7. Touch the frame (ground) with the remaining end of the jumper wire.
8. Turn the key switch to the ON position. The low oil warning light should illuminate.
9. If the low oil warning light does not illuminate when the key switch is in the ON position, check the 18- gauge purple wire (…
10. If there is continuity between the 18-gauge purple wire (w49) at the low oil warning light and the 18-gauge purple wire (w29) at the key switch, replace the low oil warning light.
11. If the problem is not corrected by performing the previous steps, test the oil pressure switch. See Section 19.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Set the multimeter to 20 VDC.
3. Measure the voltage between the center contact and the outer contact of the power point receptacle. The voltage should be approximately 12 VDC.
4. If the voltage is not approximately 12 VDC, check the 10-amp fuse on wire 46 (w46) located on the electrical component mounting plate. See Test Procedure 2 – Fuse on page 11b-11.
5. If the fuse is good, check the continuity of the wires connected to the power point receptacle.
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the orange wire from the center post of the fuel level sending unit.
4. With a multimeter set to 2k ohms, place the red (+) probe on the center post of the sending unit. Place the black (-) probe on the ground connection of the sending unit (Figure 11b-34, Page 11b-39).
5. The following resistance readings (in ohms) should be indicated, depending on the position of the float inside the fuel tank….
6. If the readings are within the specifications listed in the preceding chart, the fuel level sending unit is working properly….
7. If the readings are correct and the fuel gauge does not function correctly, leave the battery disconnected and check the continuity of the following:
8. If the readings are correct according to the position of the float, but the reading on the fuel gauge/hour meter is incorrect, test the fuel gauge/hour meter. See Test Procedure 29 – Fuel Gauge on page 11b-40.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-4.
3. Disconnect the orange wire from the fuel gauge/hour meter.
4. Set a multimeter to 20 volts DC, and place the red (+) probe on the positive (+) post of the battery. Place the black (-) probe on the negative (-) post of the battery. Record the voltage reading.
5. Set a multimeter to 20 volts DC, and place the red (+) probe on the (2) terminal of the fuel gauge/hour meter where the blue …
6. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m).
7. Turn the key switch ON. The voltage reading should be the same as the battery voltage reading recorded earlier. If not, check the continuity of the blue and black wires (Figure 11b-35, Page 11b-41).
8. The orange wire should remain disconnected for this step. Place the black probe of the multimeter on the (3) terminal of the …
1. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Turn the key switch ON, and record the current hour meter reading.
3. Turn the key switch to the START position, and hold it until the engine is running smoothly. Release the key and it will return to the ON position. The engine should idle.
4. Allow the engine to idle for at least 6 minutes (the meter records in 6-minute increments). See following DANGER.
5. If the reading does not change after six minutes, check the low oil warning light and the oil pressure switch. See following NOTE. See also Test Procedure 26 – Low Oil Warning Light Circuit on page 11b-38.
6. If the hour meter still does not function after the low oil warning light, oil pressure switch, and all of the appropriate wires have been checked for continuity, replace the fuel gauge/hour meter.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-4.
4. Use a multimeter set to 20 volts DC, and place alligator clips on the multimeter probes. Connect the red (+) probe to the light switch terminal where the blue wire (w03) is connected (Figure 11b-37, Page 11b-42).
5. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first.
6. Connect the black (-) probe of the multimeter to the negative (-) post of the battery.
7. With the light switch in the OFF position, the reading should indicate 0 volts. With the light in the ON position, the readin…
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Inspect the wires at the light bulb socket. Make sure the wires are securely fastened to the contacts inside the socket.
3. Remove the wire harness from the headlight (Figure 11b-38, Page 11b-43).
4. Use a multimeter set to 20 volts DC, and place the black (-) probe into the black wire terminal of the wire harness. Place the red (+) probe into the blue wire terminal.
5. Pull the light switch to the ON position. If the multimeter reading indicates approximately 12 volts, replace the headlight bulb.
6. If there is no voltage reading at the wire harness, check the continuity of the 16-gauge blue wire from the headlight to the light switch.
7. Check the continuity of the 16-gauge black wire from the headlight to the ground terminal.
8. If the readings are correct in all of the previous steps, replace the headlamp.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the red and yellow wires from the bed lift motor (Figure 11b-39, Page 11b-43).
3. Set a multimeter for 20 VDC.
4. Place the red probe in the bullet connector on the red wire (wire harness side), and place the black probe in the bullet connector on the black wire (wire harness side) (Figure 11b-40, Page 11b-44).
5. Have an assistant press the bed lift switch on the instrument panel in the UP position and monitor the multimeter:
6. Place the red probe in the bullet connector on the red wire (wire harness side), and place the black probe in the bullet connector on the black wire (wire harness side) (Figure 11b-41, Page 11b-44).
7. Have an assistant press the bed lift switch on the instrument panel in the DOWN position and monitor the multimeter:
8. If the bed lift motor does not function and the readings obtained in the previous steps are correct, the bed lift motor has failed and must be replaced. See Bed Lift Motor Removal, Section 4, Page 4-9.
1. Remove the bed lift switch. See Bed Lift Switch Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-14.
2. Check continuity between the terminals (Figure 11b-42, Page 11b-45) of the toggle switch and compare the readings with the To…
1. Remove the bed lift circuit breaker. See Bed Lift Circuit Breaker Removal, Section 12b, Page 12b-19.
2. Place the red probe of the multimeter on the circuit breaker terminals. If the multimeter does not indicate continuity, replace the circuit breaker. See Bed Lift Circuit Breaker Installation, Section 12b, Page 12b-19.

Section 12a – Electrical Components: Gasoline Vehicles
Starter and Starter Solenoid
Relays
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Remove the electrical component cover.
3. Remove the relay from the multi-pin connector.
1. Insert the relay into the multi-pin connector. See following NOTE.
Neutral Switch
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the neutral switch and the wire harness.
3. Use a wrench to loosen and remove the neutral switch from the transmission housing.
1. Install the neutral switch to the transmission housing. Tighten the hardware to 20.5 ft-lb (27.8 N·m).
2. Connect the two-pin connector between the neutral switch and the wire harness.
3. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Carburetor Solenoid
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the intake hose from the carburetor intake adapter and remove the carburetor.
4. Disconnect the 18-gauge yellow wire (w39) from the carburetor solenoid bullet connector (Figure 12a-3, Page 12a-3).
5. Remove the solenoid from the carburetor. See Section 20.
1. Install the carburetor solenoid on the carburetor and install the carburetor. See Section 20.
2. Install the intake hose on the carburetor intake adapter.
3. Connect the 18-gauge yellow wire (w39) from the carburetor solenoid to the wire harness (Figure 12a-3, Page 12a-3).
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Voltage Regulator
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Disconnect the multi-pin connector between the voltage regulator and the wire harness (Figure 12a-4, Page 12a-4).
4. Remove the voltage regulator mounting screws and remove the voltage regulator.
1. Position the voltage regulator on the mounting plate and install the mounting screws. Tighten screws to 9.0 ft-lb (12.2 N·m) (Figure 12a-4, Page 12a-4).
2. Connect the multi-pin connector from the voltage regulator to the wire harness.
3. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
4. With the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL, start the engine and check the regulator for proper functioning as described in the voltage regulator test procedure. See Test Procedure 14, Section 11a, Page 11a-26.
Instrument Panel
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Loosen the Tuflok screws, but do not remove screws completely, as shown in Detail A (Figure 12a-5, Page 12a-5).
4. Remove Tuflok screws from instrument panel as shown in Detail B.
5. Pull forward on top of the instrument panel.
6. If required, disconnect the electrical components.
7. If required, remove the choke cable. See Choke Cable Removal on page 13a-27.
1. Reverse removal procedures to install the instrument panel.
2. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Key Switch
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 12a-4.
4. Remove the multi-pin connector from the key switch.
5. Remove the key switch nut, and remove the key switch from the back side of the instrument panel.
1. Reverse the removal procedure to install key switch in the instrument panel. Tighten the key switch nut firmly.
2. Connect the multi-pin connector to the key switch.
3. Install the instrument panel in reverse order of removal.
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Fuse
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the electrical component cover (located near the battery).
4. Remove the fuse from the fuse block.
1. Install the fuse. See following WARNING.
2. Install the electrical component cover.
3. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Reverse Warning Buzzer
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 12a-4.
4. Remove the plastic rivets securing the reverse warning buzzer, and remove the reverse warning buzzer (Figure 12a-6, Page 12a-7).
1. Install the reverse warning buzzer, and secure it with two plastic rivets.
2. Connect the black wire from the wire harness to the negative (-) terminal on the buzzer.
3. Connect the red/white wire from the wire harness to the positive (+) terminal on the buzzer.
4. Reverse the removal procedure to install the instrument panel on the vehicle.
5. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Reverse Warning Buzzer Limit Switch
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 12a-4.
4. Disconnect the wires from the reverse warning buzzer limit switch (Figure 12a-6, Page 12a-7).
5. Remove the screws, nuts, washers, and lockwashers that secure the limit switch.
6. Remove the limit switch.
1. Install the reverse warning buzzer limit switch in the reverse order of removal.
2. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the REVERSE position.
3. Tighten the limit switch mounting screws so that they are snug but the limit switch can still be rotated in the adjustment slot (Figure 12a-7, Page 12a-8).
4. Rotate the limit switch so that the lobe on the Forward/Reverse handle activates the limit switch as shown (Figure 12a-8, Page 12a-8).
5. Hold the limit switch in position, and tighten the mounting screws and nuts to 4 in-lb (0.5 N·m). See following CAUTION.
6. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL and then back to REVERSE to ensure that the limit switch lever is being properly activated.
7. Connect the 18-gauge red and 18-gauge red/white wires to the limit switch.
8. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
9. Turn the key switch to the ON position. With the Forward/Reverse handle in REVERSE, the buzzer should sound.
Low Oil Warning Light
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 12a-4.
4. Disconnect the wires from the low oil warning light (1) (Figure 12a-9, Page 12a-9).
5. Press the retaining tabs and remove the low oil warning light from the instrument panel.
1. Push a new low oil warning light into the hole in the instrument panel until the plastic tabs are securely engaged (Figure 12a-9, Page 12a-9).
2. Connect the 18-gauge purple and 18-gauge black/white wires from the wire harness to the low oil warning light.
3. Install the instrument panel in reverse order of removal.
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Fuel Gauge/Hour Meter
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 12a-4.
4. Disconnect the wires from the fuel gauge/hour meter (2) (Figure 12a-9, Page 12a-9).
5. Remove the two hex nuts (3) and lockwashers (4) from the threaded studs on the back of the gauge. Remove the mounting bracket (5) from the back side of the gauge/meter, and remove it from the instrument panel.
1. Install a new fuel gauge/hour meter into the hole in the instrument panel until the flange seats against the instrument panel (Figure 12a-9, Page 12a-9).
2. Slide the mounting bracket onto the two threaded studs on the fuel gauge/hour meter. Secure with two lockwashers and two hex …
3. Connect the wires to the fuel gauge/hour meter. See Wiring Diagram, Section 11a, Page 11a-6.
4. Coat the terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
5. Install the instrument panel in reverse order of removal.
6. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Fuel Level Sending Unit
Ignition Coil and Charge Coil
Charge Coil
Oil Pressure Sensor
Headlights
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. From the front of the vehicle, reach under the cowl and turn the wire harness/halogen bulb assembly (4 and 6) clockwise one-quarter turn (Figure 12a-10, Page 12a-12).
4. Remove the wire harness/halogen bulb assembly (4 and 6) from the headlight lens (7).
5. Lift the retaining tabs on the connector (4), and remove the halogen bulb assembly (6).
1. Connect the wire harness (4) to the halogen bulb assembly (6). The retaining tab should lock onto the halogen bulb assembly (Figure 12a-10, Page 12a-12).
2. From the front of vehicle, reach under the cowl and insert the wire harness/halogen bulb assembly (4 and 6) into the headlight lens (7).
3. Turn the wire harness/halogen bulb assembly (4 and 6) counterclockwise one-quarter turn.
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Light Switch
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Loosen the set screw locking the light switch knob to the shaft.
4. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 12a-4.
5. Disconnect the wires from the light switch.
6. Remove the outer nut from the light switch (3), and remove the switch.
1. Connect the wires to the light switch. See Wiring Diagram, Section 11a, Page 11a-6.
2. Thread the check nut onto the switch until an equal number of threads show on both sides. Install to the instrument panel with the nut on the outside of the instrument panel, and tighten the nut to 14 in-lb (1.6 N·m).
3. Push the light switch shaft in. Screw the knob onto the end of the shaft until the knob touches the outer nut. Turn the knob …
4. Install the instrument panel in reverse order of removal.
5. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Wire Harness Diodes
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Locate the diode to be replaced by removing the wire conduit and tracing the wire.
4. Note the polarity of the diode as indicated by the white stripe on one side of the diode, and mark the wire on the side of the white stripe.
5. Cut the wires attached to each side of the diode and discard the diode.
1. Slide a piece of heatshrink tubing over one of the wire ends where the diode will be attached.
2. Install the new diode using in-line wire splicing connectors. Make sure to observe polarity and place the side of the diode with the white stripe on the wire that was marked when the diode was removed.
3. Slide the heatshrink tubing over the diode and ensure that it will, after being activated, adequately cover the uninsulated diode leads.
4. Activate the heatshrink by carefully applying heat to the tubing.
5. Bundle the wires into the plastic wire conduit and replace any wire ties that were removed when the wires were traced.
6. Restore the wire harness routing to the original routing, and secure the harness with wire ties as required.
7. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Bed Lift Switch
1. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 12a-4.
2. Remove the wires from the bed lift toggle switch.
3. Remove the nut and washer securing the bed lift toggle switch to the instrument panel and remove the switch.
1. Connect the wires to the bed lift toggle switch as shown (Figure 12a-11, Page 12a-14).
2. Secure the bed lift toggle switch to the instrument panel with the washer and nut.
3. Install the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Installation on page 12a-5.
Bed Lift Circuit Breaker
1. Open and remove the dashboard access panel located above the steering column.
2. Locate the bed lift circuit breaker on the orange wire in the black plastic conduit (Figure 12a-12, Page 12a-15).
3. Pull the circuit breaker from the in-line fuse holder and remove the circuit breaker.
Battery
General Information
1. To keep the battery in good operating condition, remove corrosion immediately. Post connections should be clean and tight. Fr…
2. The battery should be kept clean and dry to prevent self-discharge. Dirt, grime, and acid spillage should be removed. Wash th…
3. Maintain the proper water level. See Water Level on page 12a-17.
4. Check the battery periodically to ensure that it is in a full state of charge. See Charging the Battery on page 12a-18.
5. Keep the battery hold-down clamp tight. See Vibration Damage on page 12a-17.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the driver-side seat.
4. Remove the battery hold-down located on the bottom of the battery.
5. Remove the battery. See following WARNING.
1. Charge the battery with an automotive type 12-volt battery charger. Follow all warnings and procedures supplied by the battery charger manufacturer.
2. Attach the charger, positive (+) cable to the positive (+) battery post, and negative (-) cable to the negative (-) battery post.
3. The battery may be charged with a slow charge (3-10 amps) or a fast charge (20-30 amps). Charge until the specific gravity reaches 1.250. See following WARNING.
1. Place the battery into the vehicle with the battery posts facing the rear of the vehicle.
2. Secure the battery to the vehicle with the clamp at the bottom of the battery. Tighten the clamp retaining bolt to 9 ft-lb (12.2 N·m).
3. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
1. Keep the battery clean and free of corrosion. See Preventive Maintenance on page 12a-16.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Fully charge the battery prior to storage.
4. Store in a cool, dry area. The colder the area in which the battery is stored, the less the battery will self- discharge. A b…
5. Check the state of charge periodically. A battery that is discharged and left in a cold environment can freeze and crack. If the specific gravity drops below 1.220, the battery should be recharged. See following WARNING.
6. The frequency of recharging required depends on the temperature of the storage area, but it is recommended that the battery b…

Section 12b – Electrical Components: Diesel Vehicles
Starter and Starter Solenoid
Relays
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Remove the electrical component cover.
3. Remove the relay from the multi-pin connector.
1. Insert the relay into the multi-pin connector. See following NOTE.
Neutral Switch
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the neutral switch and the wire harness.
3. Use a wrench to loosen and remove the neutral switch from the transmission housing.
1. Install the neutral switch to the transmission housing. Tighten to 20.5 ft-lb (27.8 N·m).
2. Connect the two-pin connector between the neutral switch and the wire harness.
3. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Fuel Solenoid
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Disconnect the three-pin connector between the fuel solenoid and the wire harness (Figure 12b-3, Page 12b-3).
4. Remove the two bolts securing the fuel solenoid to the engine block, and lift the solenoid from the engine (Figure 12b-3, Page 12b-3).
1. Place the pin on the end of the fuel solenoid lever into the slot of the engine throttle (Figure 12b-4, Page 12b-3).
2. Secure the fuel solenoid to the engine block with two bolts. Tighten the bolts to 6.4 ft-lb (8.7 N·m).
3. Connect the three-pin connector from the fuel solenoid to the wire harness (Figure 12b-3, Page 12b-3).
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
50-Amp Circuit Breaker
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the electrical component cover, and locate the 50-amp circuit breaker on the electrical component mounting plate just beneath the fuse block.
4. Remove the locknuts that secure the two 10-gauge wires to the circuit breaker (Figure 12b-5, Page 12b-4).
5. Press the tabs on the plastic fasteners, and gently pry the circuit breaker from the electrical component mounting plate.
1. Secure the 50-amp fuse to the electrical component mounting plate with the two plastic fasteners (Figure 12b-5, Page 12b-4).
2. Attach each of the 10-gauge red wires to the posts on the 50-amp circuit breaker.
3. Tighten the two locknuts to 28 in-lb (3.2 N·m).
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Instrument Panel
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Loosen the Tuflok screws, but do not remove screws completely, as shown in Detail A (Figure 12b-6, Page 12b-5).
4. Remove Tuflok screws from instrument panel as shown in Detail B.
5. Pull forward on top of instrument panel.
6. If required, disconnect the electrical components.
1. Reverse removal procedures to install the instrument panel.
2. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Key Switch
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 12b-4.
4. Remove the multi-pin connector from the key switch.
5. Remove the remaining 18-gauge light green wire (w44) from the GR key switch terminal.
6. Remove the key switch nut, and remove the key switch from the back side of the instrument panel.
1. Reverse the removal procedure to install key switch in the instrument panel. Tighten the key switch nut firmly.
2. Connect the multi-pin connector to the key switch.
3. Connect the 18-gauge light green wire (w44) to the GR key switch terminal.
4. Install the instrument panel in reverse order of removal.
5. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Fuse
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the electrical component cover (located near the battery).
4. Remove the fuse from the fuse block.
1. Install the fuse. See following WARNING.
2. Install the electrical component cover.
3. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Reverse Warning Buzzer
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 12b-4.
4. Remove the plastic rivets securing the reverse warning buzzer, and remove the reverse warning buzzer (Figure 12b-7, Page 12b-7).
1. Install the reverse warning buzzer and secure it with two plastic rivets.
2. Connect the black wire from the wire harness to the negative (-) terminal on the buzzer.
3. Connect the red/white wire from the wire harness to the positive (+) terminal on the buzzer.
4. Reverse the removal procedure to install the instrument panel on the vehicle.
5. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Reverse Warning Buzzer Limit Switch
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 12b-4.
4. Disconnect the wires from the reverse warning buzzer limit switch (Figure 12b-7, Page 12b-7).
5. Remove the screws, nuts, washers, and lockwashers that secure the limit switch.
6. Remove the limit switch.
1. Install the reverse warning buzzer limit switch in the reverse order of removal.
2. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in the REVERSE position.
3. Tighten the limit switch mounting screws so that they are snug, but the limit switch can still be rotated in the adjustment slot (Figure 12b-8, Page 12b-8).
4. Rotate the limit switch so that the lobe on the Forward/Reverse handle activates the limit switch as shown (Figure 12b-9, Page 12b-8).
5. Hold the limit switch in position, and tighten the mounting screws and nuts to 4 in-lb (0.5 N·m). See following CAUTION.
6. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL and then back to REVERSE to ensure that the limit switch lever is being properly activated.
7. Connect the 18-gauge red and 18-gauge red/white wires to the limit switch.
8. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
9. Turn the key switch to the ON position. With the Forward/Reverse handle in REVERSE, the buzzer should sound.
Low Oil Warning Light
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 12b-4.
4. Disconnect the wires from the low oil warning light (1) (Figure 12b-10, Page 12b-10).
5. Press the retaining tabs and remove the low oil warning light from the instrument panel.
1. Push a new low oil warning light into the hole in the instrument panel until the plastic tabs are securely engaged (Figure 12b-10, Page 12b-10).
2. Connect the 18-gauge purple and 18-gauge black/white wires from the wire harness to the low oil warning light.
3. Install the instrument panel in reverse order of removal.
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Fuel Gauge/Hour Meter
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 12b-4.
4. Disconnect the wires from the fuel gauge/hour meter (2) (Figure 12b-10, Page 12b-10).
5. Remove the two hex nuts (3) and lockwashers (4) from the threaded studs on the back of the gauge. Remove the mounting bracket (5) from the back side of the gauge/meter, and remove it from the instrument panel.
1. Install a new fuel gauge/hour meter into the hole in the instrument panel until the flange seats against the instrument panel (Figure 12b-10, Page 12b-10).
2. Slide the mounting bracket onto the two threaded studs on the fuel gauge/hour meter. Secure the fuel gauge/hour meter with tw…
3. Connect the wires to the fuel gauge/hour meter. See Wiring Diagram, Section 11b, Page 11b-6.
4. Coat the terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
5. Install the instrument panel in reverse order of removal.
6. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Electric Fuel Pump
Fuel Level Sending Unit
Alternator
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Disconnect the 18-gauge purple wire from the alternator (Figure 12b-11, Page 12b-12).
4. Disconnect the 10-gauge red wire from the alternator (Figure 12b-12, Page 12b-12).
5. Loosen and remove the belt tension adjustment bolt at the top of the alternator (Figure 12b-13, Page 12b-13)
6. Loosen and remove the alternator mounting bolt at the bottom of the alternator (Figure 12b-14, Page 12b-13)
7. Remove the belt shield and the alternator from the engine compartment.
8. If necessary, remove the V-belt.
1. Place the alternator and belt shield on the engine, and insert the alternator mounting bolt through the shield and alternator…
2. Insert the belt tension adjustment bolt through the belt shield mounting hole and adjustment slot and into the alternator hou…
3. Place the V-belt on the alternator pulley.
4. Place a belt tension gauge on the V-belt, and use a pry bar to increase the belt tension. Use a Krikit brand belt tension gau…
5. Hold the pry bar to maintain the proper belt tension adjustment, and tighten the belt tension adjustment bolt to 19.0 ft-lb (25.8 N·m) (Figure 12b-13, Page 12b-13).
6. Tighten the alternator mounting bolt to 19.0 ft-lb (25.8 N·m) (Figure 12b-14, Page 12b-13). See following CAUTION.
7. Connect the 10-gauge red wire to the alternator (Figure 12b-12, Page 12b-12). Tighten the nut to 7.0 ft-lb (9.5 N·m).
8. Connect the 18-gauge purple wire to the alternator (Figure 12b-11, Page 12b-12).
9. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Oil Pressure Sensor
Headlights
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. From the front of the vehicle, reach under the cowl and turn the wire harness/halogen bulb assembly (4 and 6) clockwise one-quarter turn (Figure 12b-15, Page 12b-14).
4. Remove the wire harness/halogen bulb assembly (4 and 6) from the headlight lens (7).
5. Lift the retaining tabs on the connector (4), and remove the halogen bulb assembly (6).
1. Connect the wire harness (4) to the halogen bulb assembly (6). The retaining tab should lock onto the halogen bulb assembly (Figure 12b-15, Page 12b-14).
2. From the front of vehicle, reach under the cowl and insert the wire harness/halogen bulb assembly (4 and 6), into the headlight lens (7).
3. Turn the wire harness/halogen bulb assembly (4 and 6) counterclockwise one-quarter turn.
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Light Switch
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Loosen the set screw locking the light switch knob to the shaft.
4. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 12b-4.
5. Disconnect the wires from the light switch.
6. Remove the outer nut from the light switch (3), and remove the switch.
1. Connect the wires to the light switch. See Wiring Diagram, Section 11b, Page 11b-6.
2. Thread the check nut onto the switch until an equal number of threads show on both sides. Install to the instrument panel with the nut on the outside of the instrument panel, and tighten the nut to 14 in-lb (1.6 N·m).
3. Push the light switch shaft in. Screw the knob onto the end of the shaft until the knob touches the outer nut. Turn the knob …
4. Install the instrument panel in reverse order of removal.
5. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Thermostat Switch
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the thermostat switch and the wire harness (Figure 12b-16, Page 12b-16). See following WARNING.
3. Loosen the radiator cap to relieve pressure.
4. Unscrew the thermostat switch from the engine block. See preceding WARNING.
1. Apply Loctite 567 Liquid Thread Sealer to the threads of the thermostat switch. See following CAUTION.
2. Hand-tighten the thermostat switch, and then tighten two full revolutions.
3. Connect the two-pin connector from the thermostat switch to the wire harness.
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Fan Motor
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the two-pin connector between the fan motor and the wire harness (Figure 12b-17, Page 12b-17).
3. Remove the radiator. See Radiator Removal on page 15-4.
4. Remove the four bolts securing the fan to the radiator (Figure 12b-18, Page 12b-17).
5. Remove the fan from the radiator.
1. Secure the fan to the radiator with four bolts (Figure 12b-18, Page 12b-17). Tighten the hardware to 4.0 ft-lb (5.8 N·m).
2. Install the radiator. See Radiator Installation on page 15-8.
3. Connect the two-pin connector from the fan motor to the wire harness (Figure 12b-17, Page 12b-17).
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Wire Harness Diodes
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Locate the diode to be replaced by removing the wire conduit and tracing the wire.
4. Note the polarity of the diode as indicated by the white stripe on one side of the diode, and mark the wire on the side of the white stripe.
5. Cut the wires attached to each side of the diode, and discard the diode.
1. Slide a piece of heatshrink tubing over one of the wire ends where the diode will be attached.
2. Use in-line wire splicing connectors to install the new diode. Make sure to observe polarity, and place the side of the diode with the white stripe on the wire that was marked when the diode was removed.
3. Slide the heatshrink tubing over the diode and ensure that it will adequately cover the uninsulated diode leads after the tubing has been activated.
4. Activate the heatshrink by carefully applying heat to the tubing.
5. Bundle the wires into the plastic wire conduit, and replace any wire ties that were removed when the wires were traced.
6. Restore the wire harness routing to the original routing, and secure the harness with wire ties as required.
7. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Bed Lift Switch
1. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal on page 12b-4.
2. Remove the wires from the bed lift toggle switch.
3. Remove the nut and washer securing the bed lift toggle switch to the instrument panel and remove the switch.
1. Connect the wires to the bed lift toggle switch as shown (Figure 12b-19, Page 12b-19).
2. Secure the bed lift toggle switch to the instrument panel with the washer and nut.
3. Install the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Installation on page 12b-5.
Bed Lift Circuit Breaker
1. Open and remove the dashboard access panel located above the steering column.
2. locate the bed lift circuit breaker on the orange wire in the black plastic conduit (Figure 12b-20, Page 12b-20).
3. Pull the circuit breaker from the in-line fuse holder and remove the circuit breaker.
Battery
General Information
1. To keep the battery in good operating condition, remove corrosion immediately. Post connections should be clean and tight. Fr…
2. The battery should be kept clean and dry to prevent self-discharge. Dirt, grime or acid spillage should be removed. Wash the …
3. Maintain the proper water level. See Water Level on page 12b-21.
4. Check the battery periodically to ensure that it is in a full state of charge. See Charging the Battery on page 12b-22.
5. Keep the battery hold-down clamp tight. See Vibration Damage on page 12b-21.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the driver-side seat.
4. Remove the battery hold-down located on the bottom of the battery.
5. Remove the battery. See following WARNING.
1. Charge the battery with an automotive type 12-volt battery charger. Follow all warnings and procedures supplied by the battery charger manufacturer.
2. Attach the charger, positive (+) cable to the positive (+) battery post, and negative (-) cable to the negative (-) battery post.
3. The battery may be charged with a slow charge (3-10 amps) or a fast charge (20-30 amps). Charge until the specific gravity reaches 1.250. See following WARNING.
1. Place the battery into the vehicle with the battery posts facing the rear of the vehicle.
2. Secure the battery to the vehicle with the clamp at the bottom of the battery. Tighten the clamp retaining bolt to 9 ft-lb (12.2 N·m).
3. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
1. Keep the battery clean and free of corrosion. See Preventive Maintenance on page 12b-21.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Fully charge the battery prior to storage.
4. Store in a cool, dry area. The colder the area in which the battery is stored, the less the battery will self- discharge. A b…
5. Check the state of charge periodically. A battery that is discharged and left in a cold environment can freeze and crack. If the specific gravity drops below 1.220, the battery should be recharged. See following WARNING.
6. The frequency of recharging required depends on the temperature of the storage area, but it is recommended that the battery b…

Section 13a – Gasoline Engine, Muffler, Fuel System, and Clutches
Gasoline Engine
Engine Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the cargo bed. See Cargo Bed Removal, Section 4, Page 4-10.
4. Remove the ROPS (Roll Over Protection Structure). See ROPS Removal, Section 4, Page 4-6.
5. Remove the lower rear ROPS bars. See ROPS Removal, Section 4, Page 4-6.
6. Remove the seat frame. See Seat Frame Removal, Section 4, Page 4-7.
7. Remove the engine cover plate. See following NOTE.
8. Remove the engine name plate. See following NOTE.
9. Close the shut-off valve on the fuel tank.
10. Remove the fuel line and in-line filter from the engine. See following DANGER.
11. Remove the governor cable. See Governor Cable Removal on page 13a-21.
12. Remove the choke cable. See Choke Cable Removal on page 13a-27.
13. Remove the engine air inlet hose from the engine. See Air Filter Outlet Hose Removal on page 13a-30.
14. Remove the muffler. See Muffler Removal on page 13a-5.
15. Remove the intermediate exhaust pipe. See Intermediate Pipe Removal on page 13a-5.
16. Remove the clutch outer cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Removal on page 13a-40.
17. Remove the clutches. See Drive Clutch Removal on page 13a-33. Also See Driven Clutch Removal on page 13a-37.
18. Remove the clutch inner cover. See Clutch Inner Cover Removal on page 13a-41.
19. Remove the manifold pipe.
20. Remove the electrical connectors:
21. Drain the engine oil. See Engine Oil and Filter Change, Section 10, Page 10-7.
22. Remove engine oil inlet and outlet hoses from the engine. See Oil Filter Hose Removal on page 13a-17. See also following NOTE.
23. Remove the engine mounting hardware (Figure 13a-1, Page 13a-3).
24. Use the engine lift tabs to lift the engine off the mounting plate.
25. If a new engine will be installed, remove and retain the following:
Engine Installation
1. Before a new engine is installed, the following components must be installed:
2. Lower the engine into the engine compartment and closely align the base mount with holes in the engine plate.
3. Loosely install new flange-head bolts and flange-head locknuts on the engine base slotted mounts. See following NOTE.
4. Secure the engine oil inlet and outlet hoses to the engine ports with new clamps. See Oil Filter Hose Installation on page 13a-17.
5. Connect all electrical connections. See Figure 11a-1, Section 11a, Page 11a-6.
6. Use new gaskets, and install the exhaust manifold. Tighten the hardware to 21 ft-lb (28 N·m).
7. Install the clutch inner cover. See Clutch Inner Cover Installation on page 13a-41.
8. Tighten the engine mounting bolts to 39 ft-lb (53 N·m).
9. Install the clutches. See Drive Clutch Installation on page 13a-37. Also See Driven Clutch Installation on page 13a-39.
10. Install the drive belt. See Drive Belt Installation on page 13a-33.
11. Install the clutch outer cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Installation on page 13a-40.
12. Install the engine air inlet hose to the filter. See Air Filter Outlet Hose Installation on page 13a-31.
13. Install the intermediate exhaust pipe. See Intermediate Pipe Installation on page 13a-6.
14. Install the muffler. See Muffler Installation on page 13a-6.
15. Install the engine name plate, and tighten the screws to 38 in-lb (4 N·m).
16. Connect the choke cable. See Choke Cable Installation on page 13a-28.
17. Feed the governor cable through the grommet in the engine name plate, and connect the cable. Adjust the cable as necessary. …
18. Feed the fuel line through the grommet in the engine name plate. Secure the fuel line to the in-line filter on the engine with a new clamp. See following DANGER.
19. Open the fuel valve on the fuel tank.
20. Install the engine cover plate. The engine lift tab should be on the passenger side.
21. Install the seat frame and lower rear ROPS (Roll Over Protection Structure) bars. See Seat Frame Installation, Section 4, Page 4-7 and ROPS Installation, Section 4, Page 4-6.
22. Install the upper ROPS frame. See ROPS Installation, Section 4, Page 4-6.
23. Install the cargo bed. See Cargo Bed Installation, Section 4, Page 4-10.
24. Add engine oil. See Engine Oil and Filter Change, Section 10, Page 10-7.
25. Check the engine oil level. See Engine Oil Level Check, Section 10, Page 10-7.
26. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
27. Adjust the engine RPM setting. See Engine RPM Adjustment on page 13a-25.
28. Install the center seat plate.
29. Install both seats.
30. Test-drive the vehicle to ensure all systems are functional and adjusted correctly.
Exhaust System
Muffler Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the spark plug wires. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
4. Loosen the muffler spring suspension bracket bolts.
5. Remove the two springs that secure the muffler inlet to the intermediate pipe (Figure 13a-2, Page 13a-5). See following NOTE.
6. Remove the two bolts and large flat washers that secure the muffler bracket and springs to the muffler body, and remove the muffler. See following WARNING and NOTE.
Intermediate Pipe Removal
1. Loosen the muffler spring suspension bracket bolts.
2. Remove the springs from the intermediate pipe and muffler inlet. See following WARNING and NOTE.
3. Remove the springs from the intermediate pipe and engine manifold, and remove the pipe.
Intermediate Pipe Installation
1. Secure the intermediate pipe to the manifold pipe with new springs. See following WARNING and NOTE.
2. Secure the intermediate pipe to the muffler inlet with new springs. See previous NOTE and WARNING.
3. Align the muffler with the intermediate pipe, and tighten the muffler spring suspension bracket bolts to 21 ft-lb (29 N·m).
Muffler Installation
1. Loosely secure the muffler and spring suspension bracket to the vehicle frame plate with two bolts and large flat washers (Figure 13a-3, Page 13a-6).
2. Secure the outlet pipe of the muffler to the manifold extension pipe with new springs. See following WARNING and NOTE.
3. Align the muffler with the intermediate pipe, and tighten the muffler spring bracket to 21 ft-lb (29 N·m).
4. Connect the spark plug wires.
5. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
6. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL, and turn the key switch to start the engine. Check for exhaust leaks and proper engine operation. See following DANGER.
Fuel System
Carburetor
Main Jet Elevation/Size Chart
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump
Fuel Level Sending Unit
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the spark plug wires. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
4. Remove the passenger seat. See Seat Removal, Section 4, Page 4-7.
5. Remove the rubber boot (8) from the center post on the fuel level sending unit. Remove the nut (9) from the center post, and remove the orange wire (7) (Figure 13a-5, Page 13a-10). Retain the hardware.
6. Remove the hex-head plastic thread screw (10) securing the black ground wire (6) to the fuel level sending unit, and remove the black ground wire. Retain the hardware.
7. Remove the four remaining hex-head plastic thread screws from the fuel level sending unit flange (5). Retain the hardware.
8. Carefully remove the sending unit and gasket (3). Feed the rheostat arm and float (4) through the fuel tank hole. Immediately place the fuel level sending unit in a pan to catch fuel. See following DANGER and NOTE.
1. Place a new rubber gasket on the fuel tank with the notch (2) centered between the flange identification mounting holes (1) (Figure 13a-6, Page 13a-12). See following NOTE.
2. Feed a new sending unit rheostat arm and float (4) into the fuel tank (Figure 13a-5, Page 13a-10). The rheostat arm and float should be positioned toward the outside surface of the fuel tank (Figure 13a-7, Page 13a-12).
3. Align the flange identification mounting holes (1) directly over the corresponding mounting holes in the gasket and fuel tank (Figure 13a-6, Page 13a-12). See following CAUTION and NOTE.
4. Carefully thread each hex-head screw by hand, with the ring terminal on the black ground wire (6) under the screw head closest to the engine (Figure 13a-5, Page 13a-10). See following CAUTION.
5. Use a crisscross pattern to tighten the hardware to 9 in-lb (1 N·m). If the hardware cannot be tightened to 9 in-lb (1 N·m), the fuel tank must be replaced. See following CAUTION.
6. Secure the orange wire (7) to the center post with the nut (9) previously removed (Figure 13a-5, Page 13a-10). Tighten the hardware to 17 in-lb (1.9 N·m), and secure the rubber boot (8) to the center post.
7. Install the passenger seat. See Seat Installation, Section 4, Page 4-7.
8. Connect the spark plug wires.
9. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Fuel Tank
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove both seats.
4. Remove the center seat plate.
5. Remove the upper portion of the ROPS. See ROPS Removal, Section 4, Page 4-6.
6. Remove the bolts, washers and flanged locknuts from the seat frame, seat side plates, and engine cover plate.
7. Turn the fuel shut-off valve to the closed (OFF) position (Figure 13a-10, Page 13a-16).
8. Run the engine until all fuel in the carburetor, fuel pump, and fuel lines is used and the engine stalls.
9. Loosen the clamp, and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel tank shut-off valve (Figure 13a-8, Page 13a-13).
10. Loosen the clamp, and remove the vent tube from the fuel tank.
11. Remove the fuel tank cap.
12. Use a siphon with a built-in suction device to siphon all fuel from the tank and into an approved container. See following DANGER and WARNING.
13. Disconnect the black wire and orange wire from the fuel level sensor on the tank. Do not remove the lower nut from the center stud of the sensor.
14. Remove the nut from the strap end below the passenger seat area.
15. Lift the strap end, and remove the opposite end from the slotted bracket.
16. Remove the passenger side bed latch bracket from the frame.
17. Remove the fuel tank.
1. Remove the cap from the tank and thoroughly rinse it with water. The cap may be discarded or kept as a spare.
2. Use a well-ventilated area, and flush the fuel tank with water to remove any remaining fuel.
3. Set the tank upside down in a well-ventilated area so that the water can drain. Allow the tank to sit for 24 hours to dry. See following WARNING.
4. Store the tank upside down with the cap installed in a well-ventilated area.
1. Install the fuel tank in the vehicle.
2. Insert the tab end of the strap into the frame bracket, and place the strap in the indentions on the tank.
3. Feed the threaded tab end down into the bottom of the frame. Install a nylon locknut, and tighten the nut to 40 in-lb (4.5 N·m). See following NOTE.
4. Connect the clear vent tube to the fuel tank vent, and secure the tube with a new clamp.
5. Connect the fuel line to the fuel tank shut-off valve, and secure the line with a new clamp.
6. Connect the black wire and orange wire to the sensor (Figure 13a-9, Page 13a-15).
7. Slide the rubber boot over the stud.
8. Install the passenger-side bed latch bracket on the frame with a bolt and flanged nylon locknut. Tighten the hardware to 20 ft-lb (27 N·m).
9. Install the seat frame on the vehicle frame. Secure the seat side plates with bolts, flat washers, and flanged locknuts. Tighten the nut to 37 ft-lb (50 N·m).
10. Install the top portion of the ROPS. See ROPS Installation, Section 4, Page 4-6.
11. Install the center seat plate.
12. Add the appropriate fuel to the fuel tank.
13. Ensure the fuel shut-off valve on top of the fuel tank is in the open (ON) position (Figure 13a-11, Page 13a-16 and Figure 13a-12, Page 13a-16).
14. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
15. Install both seats.
16. With the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL, start the engine and allow it to idle. Run the engine for a few minutes to ensure that the fuel lines are full of fuel. See following DANGER.
17. Inspect each fuel line connection for leaks.
Fuel Lines
Fuel Shut-Off Valve
Oil Filter Hoses
1. Drain the engine oil. See Engine Oil Draining, Section 10, Page 10-7.
2. Place a pan under the oil filter hose connections on the engine. See following NOTE.
3. Loosen the clamps on the oil hoses at the engine ports and slide them from the engine port nozzles.
4. Loosen the clamps on the oil hoses at the filter ports and slide them from the filter port nozzles.
1. Replace the oil hoses (1) with like hoses. See following NOTE.
2. Secure the hoses to the port nozzles (2) with clamps (3) and tighten to 9 in-lb (1 N·m) (Figure 13a-13, Page 13a-17). See following NOTE.
3. Fill the engine with engine oil. See Engine Oil Filling, Section 10, Page 10-10.
Engine Control Linkages
Accelerator Cable
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Remove the key. Chock the rear wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the dashboard. See Dashboard Removal, Section 4, Page 4-4.
4. Remove the passenger-side seat. See Seat Removal, Section 4, Page 4-7.
5. Disconnect the Z-shaped end (1) on the accelerator cable from the pedal (Figure 13a-14, Page 13a-18).
6. Release the retention clip at the pedal bracket (Figure 13a-15, Page 13a-18).
7. Disconnect the accelerator cable (5) from the engine (Figure 13a-16, Page 13a-19).
8. Remove the accelerator cable from the plastic retaining clips under the passenger side of the frame. Pull the cable at the dashboard to remove it from the engine compartment. See following NOTE.
1. Feed the pedal end and governor end of the accelerator cable up into place from under the vehicle on the passenger side. See following NOTE.
2. Secure the cable to the plastic retaining clips under the passenger side of the frame.
3. Connect the accelerator cable to the pedal.
4. Connect the accelerator cable (5) to the governor arm (4) in the engine compartment (Figure 13a-16, Page 13a-19).
5. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Governor Guard
1. Remove the passenger seat. See following NOTE.
2. Remove the two hex-head bolts (1) from the front (cable side) of the governor guard (Figure 13a-18, Page 13a-21).
3. Remove the nylon locknut (2) from the rear (transmission side) of the governor guard (Figure 13a-19, Page 13a-21).
4. Slide the guard off the bolts.
1. Slide the rear of the governor guard onto the bolts that extend through the transmission case.
2. Install the front (cable side) governor guard bolts (1) (Figure 13a-18, Page 13a-21). Tighten the hardware to 21 ft-lb (28 N·m).
3. Install a new nylon locknut on the bolt (2) at the rear (transmission side) of the governor guard (Figure 13a-19, Page 13a-21). Tighten the hardware to 21 ft-lb (28 N·m).
4. Install the passenger seat.
Governor Cable
1. Remove the governor guard. See Governor Guard Removal on page 13a-21.
2. Remove the cable sheath strain relief from the cable bracket on the transmission (Figure 13a-20, Page 13a-22).
3. Remove the Z-shaped end of the governor cable from the governor arm on the transmission.
4. Remove the spring end of the cable from the engine bracket (Figure 13a-21, Page 13a-22).
5. Slide the cable away from the throttle control wire loop. See following NOTE.
6. Remove the cable sheath strain relief from the engine bracket, and remove the governor cable.
1. Secure the spring loop on the engine end of the cable to the engine bracket (Figure 13a-21, Page 13a-22).
2. Slide the cable into the throttle wire loop. Ensure the small washer is positioned between the throttle wire loop and the cable/spring attachment.
3. Secure the cable sheath to the engine bracket.
4. Secure the Z-shaped end of the governor cable to the governor arm on the transmission.
5. Secure the cable sheath to the transmission bracket.
6. Install the governor guard. See Governor Guard Installation on page 13a-21.
Accelerator Cable Retention Clip Adjustment
1. Release the cable sheath retention clip (Figure 13a-15, Page 13a-18).
2. Push the carburetor throttle shaft toward the closed direction until it contacts the throttle stop.
3. Adjust the accelerator cable at the pedal until there is a washer-width space between the washer and the governor wire form as shown (Figure 13a-22, Page 13a-23).
4. Press the retention clip to hold accelerator cable in correct adjustment position.
5. Start the engine and verify correct idle speed. Also, verify that the governor cable is not putting pressure on the governor wire form while the engine is idling.
Ground Speed (Transmission) Governor Arm Adjustment
1. Remove the governor guard. See Governor Guard Removal on page 13a-21.
2. Loosen the pinch bolt (7) with a 7/16-inch socket to allow vertical movement of the ground speed (transmission) governor arm (4) (Figure 13a-23, Page 13a-24).
3. Set the distance from the top of the pin to the ground speed (transmission) governor arm to 1/4-inch (6.4 mm) as shown (Figure 13a-24, Page 13a-24). Hold the pin in place.
4. Push and hold the transmission governor arm (4) in the full-throttle position so that the washer (8) is just touching the governor wire (9) (Figure 13a-23, Page 13a-24). See following CAUTION.
5. Use a flat-head screwdriver to turn the pin (10) counter-clockwise until it stops. Hold the screwdriver in place, and use a 7/16-inch socket to tighten the pinch bolt (7) to 35 in-lb (4 N·m).
6. Install the governor guard. See Governor Guard Installation on page 13a-21.
Engine Governor Arm
1. Remove the governor guard. See Governor Guard Removal on page 13a-21.
2. Disconnect the intake hose from the engine.
3. Disconnect the governor wire spring (11) from the engine governor arm (6) (Figure 13a-23, Page 13a-24).
4. Disengage the governor wire (12) from the carburetor, and remove it from the engine governor arm (6).
5. Disengage the idle spring (13) from the engine governor arm (6) and idle adjuster (14).
6. Loosen the pinch nut (15) until the governor arm (6) can be removed from the slotted pin (16).
1. Slide the engine governor arm (6) onto the slotted pin (16) (Figure 13a-23, Page 13a-24).
2. Insert the straight end of the governor wire (12) through the top hole in the engine governor arm as shown (Figure 13a-23, Page 13a-24).
3. Insert the bent end of the engine governor wire (12) into the carburetor throttle. Secure the wire with a clip.
4. Insert the governor wire spring (11) into the bottom hole in the engine governor arm as shown (Figure 13a-23, Page 13a-24).
5. Ensure the governor cable is inserted into the loop in the governor wire (9). Insert the idle spring (13) into the engine governor arm (6), and stretch it to insert it into the idle adjuster (14).
6. Ensure the engine governor arm is in the wide-open throttle position and that it is securely positioned on the slotted pin (16).
7. Ensure the engine governor arm is in the wide-open throttle position. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to rotate the slotted pin …
8. Connect the intake hose to the engine.
9. Check the engine idle speed. See Idle RPM Adjustment on page 13a-25.
10. Install the governor guard. See Governor Guard Installation on page 13a-21.
Engine RPM Adjustment
1. Turn the key switch to start and run the engine, and place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Place a tachometer (CCI P/N 1016112) close to the spark plug wire and plug.
2. Hold the throttle against the stop screw, and adjust the idle-adjustment screw on the carburetor until the tachometer displays 1125 ± 25 RPM. See following NOTE.
3. Release the throttle.
4. Adjust the idle-adjustment screw above the No. 2 cylinder exhaust port until the tachometer displays 1300 ± 50 RPM. See previous NOTE.
1. Press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
2. Place a tachometer (CCI P/N 1016112) close to the spark pug wire and plug.
3. Adjust the high-speed adjustment screw (1) until the tachometer displays 3825 ± 25 RPM (Figure 13a-25, Page 13a-26). See following NOTE.
4. Release the accelerator pedal.
Choke and Air Intake System
Air Filter Replacement
1. Release both canister tab locks (Figure 13a-26, Page 13a-27).
2. Pull the canister cap away from the canister.
3. Remove the air filter cartridge. See following NOTE.
1. Push the new filter cartridge onto the nozzle inside the canister.
2. Position the canister cap so the TOP mark is at the top center of the canister (Figure 13a-26, Page 13a-27).
3. Use both tab locks on the sides of the cap to secure the canister cap.
Choke Cable Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL, and chock the rear wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove both seats.
4. Remove the center seat plate.
5. Remove the engine cover plate.
6. Remove the cable sheath strain relief from the engine bracket (Figure 13a-27, Page 13a-28).
7. Remove the Z-shaped cable end from the choke control on the carburetor.
8. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 12a, Page 12a-4.
9. Compress the choke ferrule tines on the back side of the instrument panel. Pull the cable up from the engine compartment, and remove the cable. See following NOTE.
Choke Cable Installation
1. Secure a new choke cable to the nylon cord outside of the instrument panel. Pull the cable from the engine compartment down to the choke cable bracket and choke control (Figure 13a-27, Page 13a-28).
2. Push the choke cable ferrule into the instrument panel hole so the tines engage behind the panel.
3. Secure the instrument panel to the dashboard.
4. Secure the choke cable to the frame with the plastic retention clips.
5. Install the Z-shaped end of the choke cable on the choke control at the carburetor.
6. Secure the cable sheath strain relief to the choke cable bracket on the engine.
7. Install the engine cover plate.
8. Install the center seat plate.
9. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
10. Install both seats.
Air Canister Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the air filter cartridge. See Air Filter Removal on page 13a-27.
4. Remove the bottom (inlet) hose from the canister (Figure 13a-31, Page 13a-30).
5. Remove the top (outlet) hose from the canister.
6. Remove the two bolts and park brake cable from the canister, and remove the canister.
Air Canister Installation
1. Position the canister next to the frame bracket with the rubber valve down.
2. Install two bolts to secure the canister base bracket and vehicle frame bracket. Tighten the hardware to 21 ft-lb (28.5 N·m).
3. Secure the bottom (inlet) hose to the canister port.
4. Secure the top (outlet) hose to the canister port.
5. Install a new air filter cartridge. See Air Filter Installation on page 13a-27.
6. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Air Filter Intake Hose Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the hose from under the filter canister.
4. Remove the hose from under the vehicle body on the frame.
5. Slide the hose through the frame support bracket, and remove the hose from the vehicle (Figure 13a-29, Page 13a-30).
Air Filter Intake Hose Installation
1. Slide the air intake hose through the frame support bracket (Figure 13a-29, Page 13a-30).
2. Secure the air intake hose to the air port under the vehicle body (Figure 13a-30, Page 13a-30).
3. Secure the air intake hose under the filter canister (inlet) port (Figure 13a-31, Page 13a-30). See following NOTE.
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Air Filter Outlet Hose Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the hose end from the air filter canister outlet port.
4. Remove the hose end from the carburetor inlet port, and remove the hose.
Air Filter Outlet Hose Installation
1. Connect the air filter outlet hose to the air filter outlet port, and secure it with a clamp.
2. Connect the air filter outlet hose to the carburetor inlet port, and secure it with a clamp.
3. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Clutches
Clutch Troubleshooting
1. Check the ground speed governor and throttle settings. See Governor Cable Installation on page 13a-22.
2. Inspect both clutches for dirt and debris buildup on component parts. Clean the exterior surfaces of both clutches with water…
3. Check the clean clutches for wear.
4. If cleaning both clutches does not solve the problem, disassemble and thoroughly clean all parts in the drive and driven clutches.
5. Check the drive clutch rollers and weights for wear. See Drive Clutch Cleaning and Inspection on page 13a-34.
Drive Belt
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Disconnect the spark plug wires. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
4. Remove the outer clutch cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Removal on page 13a-40.
5. Grasp the belt midway between the drive and driven clutches, and squeeze the belt together as tightly as possible (Figure 13a-33, Page 13a-32).
6. Guide the belt over the driven clutch and roll the belt off the driven clutch by rotating the clutch clockwise. See following CAUTION.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Disconnect the spark plug wires. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
4. Remove the outer clutch cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Removal on page 13a-40.
5. Position the new belt on the drive clutch, and then start the belt over the top of the driven clutch.
6. Rotate the driven clutch clockwise, and roll the belt over the driven clutch sheaves and onto the clutch.
7. Install the outer clutch cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Installation on page 13a-40.
8. Connect the spark plug wires.
9. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Drive Clutch
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Disconnect the spark plug wires. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
4. Remove the top air filter hose (outlet) from the air filter canister.
5. Remove the clutch outer cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Removal on page 13a-40.
6. Remove the drive belt. See Drive Belt Removal on page 13a-32.
7. Remove the bolt and washer from the center of the clutch.
8. Thread the clutch removal tool (CCI P/N 102686101) into the drive clutch center, and advance the tool until the clutch shaft is released from the crankshaft. See following CAUTION.
9. Remove the drive clutch from the vehicle. See following CAUTION.
1. Use a dry, lint-free cloth to clean clutch parts. See following CAUTION.
2. Inspect the belt contact surfaces of the clutch sheaves for wear. If any area of a sheave contact surface has wear of 0.060 inch (1.52 mm) or more, the clutch should be replaced.
1. Use a 7/16-inch socket to remove the four bolts (1) and washers (2) that secure the plate (3) to the clutch cover (4) (Figure 13a-35, Page 13a-36).
2. Remove the cover (4) and spring (5) from the clutch spider (6).
3. Inspect the torque rollers (7), weights (11) and rollers (10). Replace if necessary.
4. Secure the Fixed sheave tool (CCI P/N 102601501) into a vice, or mount the tool to a flat work surface (Figure 13a-34, Page 13a-34).
5. Place the fixed sheave of the drive clutch onto the service tool so that the drive clutch is stationary.
6. Place the Spider removal tool (CCI P/N 102607501) on top of the spider.
7. Use a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to disengage the moveable sheave (14) and spider (6), which will come off as an assembly, from the fixed sheave (15) (Figure 13a-35, Page 13a-36).
1. Use a feeler gauge to inspect the torque rollers (7), and replace the rollers if necessary (Figure 13a-35, Page 13a-36).
2. Inspect the rollers (10) and weights (11). There should be no noticeable wear. If the rollers or weights are worn, scratched, or damaged, replace them.
1. Place the moveable sheave (14) and spider (6) onto the fixed sheave (15). Note the location of the X so the remaining components with an X can be aligned.
2. Use a spider removal tool (CCI P/N 102607501) to tighten the moveable sheave and spider to 225 ft-lb (305 N·m).
3. Install the spring (5) onto the shaft.
4. Install the cover (4) onto the shaft.
5. Align the plate that has holes in the cover with arrows on the same side. Pull the moveable sheave upward and start threading the bolts with washers into holes. See following NOTE.
6. Use a crisscross pattern to continue tightening the hardware.
7. Tighten the bolts to 10 ft-lb (14 N·m).
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Disconnect the spark plug wires. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
4. Place the drive clutch assembly on the crankshaft taper.
5. Install the mounting washer and retaining bolt. Tighten the hardware to 39 ft-lb (53 N·m).
6. Install the drive belt as instructed. See Drive Belt Installation on page 13a-33.
7. Install the clutch outer cover, and tighten the bolts to 6 ft-lb (8.0 N·m).
8. Secure the top air filter hose (outlet) to the filter canister. See following NOTE.
9. Connect the spark plug wires.
10. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
11. Drive the vehicle and check for proper operation.
Driven Clutch
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle is in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Disconnect the spark plug wires. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
4. Remove the top air filter hose from the filter canister.
5. Remove the clutch outer cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Removal on page 13a-40.
6. Remove the drive belt as instructed. See Drive Belt Removal on page 13a-32.
7. Remove the bolt and washer from the center of the clutch.
8. Remove the driven clutch from the vehicle. See following CAUTION.
1. Place the driven clutch onto the Spring compression base (CCI P/N 102603501) (Figure 13a-36, Page 13a-38).
2. Place the Spring compression collar (CCI P/N 102605201) onto the driven clutch.
3. Thread the Spring compression nut (CCI P/N 102606101) down onto the threaded post enough to release the pressure on the snap ring.
4. Use snap-ring pliers to remove the snap ring (1) (Figure 13a-37, Page 13a-39).
5. Slowly remove the spring compression nut. The collar will then rise and release tension on the spring (3).
6. Remove the cup (2) and spring (3).
7. Remove the moveable sheave (4) from the fixed sheave (5). See following NOTE.
1. Place the fixed sheave (5) onto the spring compression base and note the location of the X so the X on the moveable sheave (4) can be aligned correctly (Figure 13a-37, Page 13a-39).
2. Place the moveable sheave (4) onto the fixed sheave (5), and align the X’s on both components.
3. Place the spring (3), cup (2), and snap ring (1) onto the clutch.
4. Place the spring compression collar onto the cup (Figure 13a-36, Page 13a-38).
5. Tighten the spring compression nut just enough to enable the snap ring to be installed.
6. Use snap ring pliers to install the snap ring.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle is in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Disconnect the spark plug wires. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
4. Install the driven clutch assembly on the transmission shaft taper.
5. Install the mounting washer and retaining bolt and tighten to 39 ft-lb (53 N·m).
6. Install the drive belt as instructed. See Drive Belt Installation on page 13a-33.
7. Install the clutch outer cover, and tighten the screws to 6 ft-lb (8 N·m).
8. Install the top air filter hose on the filter canister. See following NOTE.
9. Connect the spark plug wires.
10. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
11. Drive the vehicle and check for proper operation.
Clutch Cover
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle is in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Disconnect the spark plug wires. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
4. Remove the top air filter hose from the filter canister.
5. Remove the self-rolling screws, and remove the clutch outer cover. See following WARNING.
1. Align the mounting holes in the clutch cover with the mounting holes in the inner cover.
2. Install the screws and tighten the hardware to 6 ft-lb (8 N·m).
3. Install the top air filter hose on the filter canister.
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305). See following NOTE.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle is in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Disconnect the spark plug wires. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
4. Remove the outer clutch cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Removal on page 13a-40.
5. Remove the drive belt. See Drive Belt Removal on page 13a-32.
6. Remove the drive clutch. See Drive Clutch Removal on page 13a-33.
7. Remove the driven clutch. See Driven Clutch Removal on page 13a-37.
8. Remove the bolts and washers from the clutch inner cover (Figure 13a-38, Page 13a-42).
9. Remove the clutch inner cover.
1. Align the mounting holes in the clutch cover with the transmission and engine bolt holes.
2. Loosely install one bolt and washer in each transmission and engine mounting hole.
3. Finger-tighten the bolts and washers.
4. Tighten the clutch inner cover engine bolts and washers to 21 ft-lb (28.5 N·m).
5. Tighten the transmission bolts and washers to 21 ft-lb (28.5 N·m).
6. Install the driven clutch. See Driven Clutch Installation on page 13a-39.
7. Install the drive clutch. See Drive Clutch Installation on page 13a-37.
8. Install drive belt. See Drive Belt Installation on page 13a-33.
9. Install the clutch outer cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Installation on page 13a-40.
10. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).

Section 13b – Diesel Engine, Muffler, Fuel System, and Clutches
Diesel Engine
Engine Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the cargo bed. See Cargo Bed Removal, Section 4, Page 4-10.
4. Remove the top of the ROPS (Roll Over Protection Structure). See ROPS Removal, Section 4, Page 4-6.
5. Remove the lower rear ROPS bars and seat frame assembly. See ROPS Removal, Section 4, Page 4-6.
6. Drain the engine and radiator coolant system. See Engine Coolant Change, Section 15, Page 15-1.
7. Release the clamp, and remove the engine coolant return hose from the steel coolant pipe outlet (under passenger side).
8. Release the clamp, and remove the engine coolant outlet hose from the steel coolant pipe outlet (under driver side).
9. Release the clamp, and remove the coolant overflow/bypass hose from the steel coolant pipe outlet (under driver side).
10. Remove the fuel supply line at the engine fuel injection pump, and securely plug the fuel supply line (Figure 13b-1, Page 13b-2). See following DANGER.
11. Remove the fuel return line at the engine relief valve port, and securely plug the fuel return line (Figure 13b-2, Page 13b-2). See previous DANGER.
12. Remove the accelerator cable from the accelerator lever (Figure 13b-3, Page 13b-3).
13. Remove the accelerator cable sheath strain relief from the engine bracket.
14. Disconnect the three-pin connector on the fuel solenoid valve from the engine (Figure 13b-4, Page 13b-3).
15. Disconnect the thermostat switch connector from the wire harness (Figure 13b-5, Page 13b-3).
16. Disconnect the starter solenoid wire connector from the wire harness (Figure 13b-6, Page 13b-4).
17. Disconnect the two black ground wires from the engine block.
18. Disconnect the engine air inlet hose from the filter. See Air Filter Outlet Hose Removal on page 13b-28.
19. Remove the muffler. See Muffler Removal on page 13b-6.
20. Remove the intermediate exhaust pipe. See Intermediate Pipe Removal on page 13b-6.
21. Remove the manifold exhaust pipe. See Manifold Pipe Removal on page 13b-7.
22. Remove the outer clutch cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Removal on page 13b-37.
23. Remove the clutches. See Drive Clutch Removal on page 13b-31. Also See Driven Clutch Removal on page 13b-35.
24. Remove the clutch inner cover. See Clutch Inner Cover Removal on page 13b-38.
25. Remove the engine mounting hardware (Figures 13b-7 and 13b-8, Page 13b-4).
26. Use the engine lift tabs on top of the engine to lift the engine from the mounting plate.
Engine Installation
1. Lower the engine into the engine compartment, and fit the engine block between the base plate brackets (Figure 13b-7, Page 13b-4). Also see Figure 13b-8, Page 13b-4.
2. Loosely secure new bolts and flat washers to the engine block mounts.
3. Secure the overflow/bypass hose from the engine to the steel coolant pipe outlet (under driver side of vehicle). Use a new clamp.
4. Secure the coolant outlet hose to the steel coolant pipe (engine inlet) (under driver side). Use a new clamp.
5. Secure the coolant return hose to the steel coolant pipe (engine outlet) under the passenger side. Use a new clamp.
6. Connect the two black ground wires to the engine block, and tighten the bolt to 39 ft-lb (53 N·m).
7. Connect the starter solenoid connector to the wire harness (Figure 13b-6, Page 13b-4).
8. Connect the thermostat switch connector to the wire harness (Figure 13b-5, Page 13b-3).
9. Connect the fuel solenoid valve 3-pin connector to the engine (Figure 13b-4, Page 13b-3).
10. Connect the accelerator cable sheath to the engine bracket (Figure 13b-3, Page 13b-3).
11. Connect the accelerator cable to the throttle lever.
12. Remove the plug, and secure the fuel return line to the engine relief valve with a new clamp (Figure 13b-2, Page 13b-2). See following DANGER.
13. Remove the plug, and secure the fuel supply line to the fuel injector assembly with a new clamp (Figure 13b-1, Page 13b-2). See previous DANGER.
14. Install the clutch inner cover. See Clutch Inner Cover Installation on page 13b-39.
15. Install the clutches. See Drive Clutch Installation on page 13b-34. Also See Driven Clutch Installation on page 13b-37.
16. Install the drive belt. See Drive Belt Installation on page 13b-30.
17. Install the clutch outer cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Installation on page 13b-37.
18. Install the manifold exhaust pipe. See Manifold Pipe Installation on page 13b-7.
19. Install the intermediate exhaust pipe. See Intermediate Pipe Installation on page 13b-7.
20. Install the muffler. See Muffler Installation on page 13b-8.
21. Secure the engine air inlet hose to the filter. See Air Filter Outlet Hose Installation on page 13b-28.
22. Install seat frame and lower ROPS (Roll Over Protection Structure). See Seat Frame Installation, Section 4, Page 4-7.
23. Install the upper ROPS frame. See ROPS Installation, Section 4, Page 4-6.
24. Install the cargo bed. See Cargo Bed Installation, Section 4, Page 4-10.
25. Check the engine oil level. See Engine Oil Level Check, Section 10, Page 10-7.
26. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
27. Adjust the engine RPM setting. See Engine RPM Adjustment on page 13b-22.
28. Install both seats.
29. Test-drive the vehicle to ensure all systems are functional and adjusted correctly.
Exhaust System
Muffler Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Loosen the muffler spring suspension bracket bolts.
4. Remove the two springs that secure the muffler inlet to the intermediate pipe (Figure 13b-9, Page 13b-6). See following NOTE.
5. Remove the two bolts and large flat washers that secure the muffler bracket and springs to the muffler body and remove the muffler. See following WARNING and NOTE.
Intermediate Pipe Removal
1. Loosen the muffler spring suspension bracket bolts.
2. Remove the springs from the intermediate pipe and muffler inlet. See following WARNING and NOTE.
3. Remove the springs from the intermediate pipe and header. Remove the pipe.
4. Remove the header pipe.
Manifold Pipe Removal
1. Remove the manifold bolts and flange-head locknuts (Figure 13b-10, Page 13b-7).
2. Separate the manifold pipe from the engine exhaust manifold.
Manifold Pipe Installation
1. Clean both the engine manifold and the manifold pipe flanges with a scraper or wire brush.
2. Use a new high-temperature flange gasket (CCI P/N 102422301), and align the manifold pipe so the bend directs the pipe in and slightly down.
3. Install new bolts and flange-head locknuts. Tighten the hardware to 21 ft-lb (28.5 N·m) (Figure 13b-10, Page 13b-7).
Intermediate Pipe Installation
1. Secure the header pipe to the engine manifold.
2. Secure the intermediate pipe to the header pipe with new springs. See following WARNING and NOTE.
3. Secure the intermediate pipe to the muffler inlet with new springs. See previous NOTE and WARNING.
4. Align the muffler with the intermediate pipe, and tighten the muffler spring suspension bracket bolts to 21 ft-lb (29 N·m).
Muffler Installation
1. Loosely secure the muffler and spring suspension bracket to the vehicle frame plate with two bolts and large flat washers (Figure 13b-11, Page 13b-8).
2. Secure the outlet pipe of the muffler to the manifold extension pipe with new springs. See following WARNING and NOTE.
3. Align the muffler with the intermediate pipe, and tighten the muffler spring bracket to 21 ft-lb (29 N·m). See previous NOTE and WARNING.
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
5. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL, start the engine and check for exhaust leaks and proper engine operation. See following DANGER.
Fuel System
Fuel Line Hose Replacement
Fuel Filter Replacement
Draining Water from the Secondary Fuel Filter
1. Place a pan under the fuel filter.
2. Lift the passenger-side seat.
3. Locate the valve (1) on the underside of the filter. Turn the valve clockwise until water begins to stream from the filter (Figure 13b-13, Page 13b-10).
4. Drain the water until it changes color. When the fluid changes color, fuel has begun to escape. See following WARNING and NOTE.
5. Close the valve. Rotate the valve counterclockwise until it is firmly sealed.
6. To resupply the filter with fuel, turn the key switch to the ON position for 10 seconds.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Place a large pan under the fuel tank to catch fuel.
4. Disconnect the fuel tank hose (1) from the top (inlet) port of the primary fuel filter (7) (Figure 13b-14, Page 13b-13). See following WARNING.
5. Disconnect the fuel pump line (2) from the bottom (outlet) of the primary fuel filter.
6. Remove the flange-head, self threading bolt and P-clamp from the fuel filter body and remove the filter.
1. Position the fuel filter body and P-clamp on the filter plate assembly (Figure 13b-12, Page 13b-10).
2. Secure the P-clamp with a new flange-head bolt, and tighten the hardware to 21 ft-lb (28 N·m).
3. Secure the bottom (outlet) hose (2) to the filter port with a new clamp (Figure 13b-14, Page 13b-13).
4. Secure the top (inlet) hose (1) to the filter port with a new clamp.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Place a large pan under the fuel filters to catch fuel.
4. Disconnect the top (inlet) hose (3) from the fuel pump (9) (Figure 13b-14, Page 13b-13). See following WARNING.
5. Disconnect the bottom (outlet) hose (4) from the secondary fuel filter.
6. Remove the two hex-head bolts from the fuel filter manifold bracket, and remove the filter.
1. Position the secondary fuel filter manifold bracket on the filter plate assembly. Align the bracket mounting holes with the plate mounting holes (Figure 13b-12, Page 13b-10).
2. Secure the manifold bracket with hex-head bolts, and tighten the bolts to 21 ft-lb (28 N·m).
3. Secure the bottom (outlet) hose (4) to the filter port with a new clamp (Figure 13b-14, Page 13b-13).
4. Secure the top (inlet) hose (3) to the filter port with a new clamp. See following NOTE.
Electric Fuel Pump
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the white/black wire connector from the wire harness.
4. Place a large pan under the fuel pump to catch fuel. See following DANGER and WARNING.
5. Disconnect and securely plug the top outlet hose (1) from the fuel pump (9) (Figure 13b-14, Page 13b-13). See previous DANGER and WARNING.
6. Disconnect and securely plug the remaining top (outlet) hose (3) from the fuel pump.
7. Disconnect and securely plug the bottom (inlet) hose (2) from the fuel pump.
8. Remove the ground lug bolt from the left side of the fuel pump bracket (Figure 13b-12, Page 13b-10). See following NOTE.
9. Remove the flange-head bolt from the right side of the fuel pump bracket, and remove the fuel pump.
1. Position a new fuel pump between the fuel filters (Figure 13b-12, Page 13b-10).
2. Loosely secure a new flange-head bolt to the right side of the fuel pump bracket.
3. Loosely secure the ground terminal from the fuel pump coil to the left side of the fuel pump bracket with a hex-head bolt.
4. Tighten the right side flange-head bolt to 21 ft-lb (28 N·m).
5. Tighten the left side hex-head bolt to 4 ft-lb (5 N·m).
6. Secure the bottom (inlet) hose (2) to the bottom port of the fuel pump (9) (Figure 13b-14, Page 13b-13).
7. Secure the top (outlet) hose (3) to the top port of the fuel pump.
8. Connect the white/black wire connector to the wire harness.
Fuel Level Sending Unit
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the passenger seat. See Seat Removal, Section 4, Page 4-7.
4. Remove the rubber boot (8) from the center post on the fuel level sending unit. Remove the nut (9) from the center post, and remove the orange wire (7) (Figure 13b-15, Page 13b-14). Retain the hardware.
5. Remove the hex-head plastic thread screw (10) securing the black ground wire (6) to the fuel level sending unit, and remove the black ground wire. Retain the hardware.
6. Remove the four remaining hex-head plastic thread screws from the fuel level sending unit flange (5). Retain the hardware.
7. Carefully remove the sending unit and gasket (3). Feed the rheostat arm and float (4) through the fuel tank hole. Immediately place the fuel level sending unit in a pan to catch fuel. See following DANGER and NOTE.
1. Place a new rubber gasket on the fuel tank with the notch (2) centered between the flange identification mounting holes (1). (Figure 13b-16, Page 13b-16). See following NOTE.
2. Feed a new sending unit rheostat arm and float (4) into the fuel tank (Figure 13b-15, Page 13b-14). The rheostat arm and float should be positioned toward the outside surface of the fuel tank (Figure 13b-17, Page 13b-17).
3. Align the flange identification mounting holes (1) directly over the corresponding mounting holes in the gasket and fuel tank (Figure 13b-16, Page 13b-16). See following CAUTION and NOTE.
4. Carefully thread each hex-head screw by hand, with the ring terminal on the black ground wire (6) under the screw head closest to the engine (Figure 13b-15, Page 13b-14). See following CAUTION.
5. Use a crisscross pattern to tighten the hardware to 9 in-lb (1 N·m). If the hardware cannot be tightened to 9 in-lb (1 N·m), the fuel tank must be replaced. See following CAUTION.
6. Secure the orange wire (7) to the center post with the nut (9) previously removed (Figure 13b-15, Page 13b-14). Tighten the hardware to 17 in-lb (1.9 N·m), and secure the rubber boot (8) to the center post.
7. Install the passenger seat. See Seat Installation, Section 4, Page 4-7.
8. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Fuel Tank
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove both seats.
4. Remove the center seat plate.
5. Remove the upper portion of the ROPS (Roll Over Protection Structure) frame. See ROPS Removal, Section 4, Page 4-6.
6. Remove the seat frame. See Seat Frame Removal, Section 4, Page 4-7.
7. Disconnect the fuel feed line (1) from the fuel tank to the primary fuel filter, and raise the end of the hose above the fuel tank. Plug the line (Figure 13b-14, Page 13b-13). See following NOTE and DANGER.
8. Disconnect the fuel return line (5) from the engine, and raise the end of the hose above the fuel tank. Plug the line. See previous NOTE and DANGER.
9. Loosen the clamp, and remove the vent tube from the fuel tank.
10. Remove the fuel tank cap.
11. Use a siphon with a built-in suction device to siphon all fuel from the tank and into an approved container. See following DANGER and WARNING.
12. Disconnect the black wire and orange wire from the fuel level sensor on the tank. Do not remove the lower nut on the center stud of the sensor.
13. Remove the nut from the fuel tank strap below the passenger seat area. See following NOTE.
14. Lift the strap end, and remove the opposite end from the slotted bracket.
15. Remove the passenger-side bed latch bracket from the frame.
16. Remove the fuel tank.
1. Remove the cap from the tank and thoroughly rinse it with water. The cap may be discarded or kept as a spare.
2. Use a well-ventilated area, and flush the fuel tank with water to remove any remaining fuel.
3. Set the tank upside down in a well-ventilated area so that the water can drain. Allow the tank to sit for 24 hours to dry. See following WARNING.
4. Store the tank upside down with the cap installed in a well-ventilated area.
1. Place the fuel tank in the vehicle.
2. Insert the tab end of the strap into the frame bracket, and place the strap in the indentions on the tank.
3. Feed the threaded tab end down into the bottom of the frame. Install a nylon locknut, and tighten the nut to 40 in-lb (4.5 N·m).
4. Connect the clear vent tube to the fuel tank vent, and secure the tube with a new clamp.
5. Connect the fuel line to the primary fuel filter on the vehicle frame, and secure it with a new clamp.
6. Connect the fuel return line to the engine, and secure it with a new clamp.
7. Connect the black wire and orange wire to the sensor (Figure 13b-19, Page 13b-19).
8. Slide the rubber boot over the stud.
9. Install the passenger-side bed latch bracket on the frame with a bolt and flanged nylon locknut. Tighten the hardware to 20 ft-lb (27 N·m).
10. Install the seat frame. Tighten the nut to 37 ft-lb (50 N·m). See Seat Frame Installation, Section 4, Page 4-7.
11. Install the top portion of the ROPS (Roll Over Protective Structure). See ROPS Installation, Section 4, Page 4-6.
12. Install the center seat plate.
13. Add the appropriate fuel to the fuel tank.
14. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
15. Install both seats.
16. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL, turn the key switch to start the engine, and allow it to idle. See following DANGER.
17. Run the engine for a few minutes to ensure that the fuel lines are full of fuel.
18. Inspect each fuel line connection for leaks.
Fuel Lines
Engine Control Linkages
Accelerator Cable
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Remove the key. Chock the rear wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 4, Page 4-2.
4. Remove the dashboard. See Dashboard Removal, Section 4, Page 4-4.
5. Remove the passenger seat. See Seat Removal, Section 4, Page 4-7.
6. Disconnect the Z-shaped end (1) of the accelerator cable from the pedal (Figure 13b-20, Page 13b-21).
7. Disconnect the cable strain relief at the pedal bracket (Figure 13b-21, Page 13b-21).
8. Disconnect the Z-shaped end of the accelerator cable from the engine (Figure 13b-3, Page 13b-3).
9. Remove the cable strain relief from the engine bracket at the engine.
10. Remove the cable from the rubber grommets under the passenger side of the frame and pull the cable at the dashboard away from the engine compartment. See following NOTE.
1. Feed the engine end of the accelerator cable down into place from the dashboard area. See following NOTE.
2. Connect the accelerator cable to the pedal (Figure 13b-22, Page 13b-22).
3. Secure the strain relief on the accelerator cable sheath to the slot at the back of the pedal bracket (Figure 13b-21, Page 13b-21).
4. Secure the engine end of the accelerator cable to the throttle lever on the engine (Figure 13b-3, Page 13b-3).
5. Secure the strain relief on the accelerator cable sheath to the engine bracket.
6. Secure the accelerator cable to the rubber grommets under the passenger side of the frame.
7. Install the dashboard. See Dashboard Installation, Section 4, Page 4-4.
8. Install the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Installation, Section 4, Page 4-4.
9. Install the passenger seat. See Seat Installation, Section 4, Page 4-7.
10. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Engine RPM Adjustment
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Remove the key. Chock the rear wheels.
2. Clean paint, grease, and dirt from one of the three fuel injector lines (Figure 13b-24, Page 13b-23). See following NOTES.
3. Secure the fuel line probe clamp to the clean area of the fuel injector line (Figure 13b-25, Page 13b-23).
4. Secure the negative (-) line clamp to the negative (-) battery post (Figure 13b-26, Page 13b-23).
5. Secure the diesel probe to the tachometer (Figure 13b-23, Page 13b-23). See following NOTE.
6. Turn the key switch to start and run the engine at idle. Measure the RPM with the tachometer and diesel probe attachment. Note the RPM reading. The correct idle RPM setting for this diesel engine is 1250 RPM ± 25.
7. Turn the key switch OFF. Turn the low-speed adjustment screw 1/4 turn clockwise to raise the RPM, or counterclockwise to lower the RPM (Figure 13b-27, Page 13b-24).
8. Turn the key switch to start the engine, and allow it to idle. Measure the RPM. Repeat steps 6 and 7 until the idle RPM is correct. See following NOTE.
1. Clean paint, grease, and dirt from any one of the three fuel injector lines (Figure 13b-24, Page 13b-23). See following NOTE.
2. Secure the fuel line clamp to the clean area of the fuel injector line (Figure 13b-25, Page 13b-23).
3. Secure the negative (-) line clamp to the negative (-) battery post (Figure 13b-26, Page 13b-23).
4. Secure the diesel probe to the tachometer (Figure 13b-23, Page 13b-23). See following NOTE.
5. Turn the key switch to start, and allow the engine to idle. Press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor. Measure the RPM with the tachometer and diesel probe attachment. Note the RPM reading.
6. Turn the key switch OFF, and remove the key. Turn the high-speed adjustment screw 1/4 turn clockwise to raise the RPM, or counterclockwise to lower the RPM.
7. Turn the key switch to start, and allow the engine to idle. Press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor. Measure the RPM. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until the high-speed RPM is correct.
Air Intake System
Air Filter Replacement
1. Release both canister tab locks (Figure 13b-29, Page 13b-25).
2. Pull the canister cap away from the canister.
3. Remove the air filter cartridge. See following NOTE.
1. Push the new filter cartridge onto the inside canister nozzle.
2. Place the canister cap, marked TOP, on the top center of the canister (Figure 13b-29, Page 13b-25).
3. Secure the canister cap with both tab locks.
Air Canister Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the air filter cartridge. See Air Filter Removal on page 13b-25.
4. Remove the bottom (inlet) hose from the canister (Figure 13b-33, Page 13b-28).
5. Remove the top (outlet) hose from the canister.
6. Remove the two bolts and park brake cable from the canister, and remove the canister.
Air Canister Installation
1. Position the canister next to the frame bracket with the tab lock released, and oriented toward the passenger side.
2. Install two bolts on the canister base bracket and vehicle frame bracket. Tighten the bolts to 21 ft-lb (28.5 N·m).
3. Secure the bottom (inlet) hose to the canister port.
4. Secure the top (outlet) hose to the canister port.
5. Install a new air filter cartridge. See Air Filter Installation on page 13b-25.
6. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Air Filter Intake Hose Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the air intake hose from under the filter canister.
4. Disconnect the air intake hose from the frame under the vehicle body.
5. Slide the air intake hose through the frame support bracket, and remove the hose from the vehicle (Figure 13b-31, Page 13b-27).
Air Filter Intake Hose Installation
1. Slide the air intake hose through the frame support bracket (Figure 13b-31, Page 13b-27).
2. Secure the air intake hose to the air port under the vehicle body (Figure 13b-32, Page 13b-28).
3. Secure the air intake hose under filter canister (inlet) port (Figure 13b-33, Page 13b-28).
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Air Filter Outlet Hose Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Disconnect the air outlet hose from the air filter canister outlet port.
4. Disconnect the air outlet hose from the carburetor inlet port, and remove the hose.
Air Filter Outlet Hose Installation
1. Install the air outlet hose at the carburetor inlet port, and secure the air outlet hose with a clamp.
2. Install the air outlet hose at the air filter outlet port, and secure the air outlet hose with a clamp.
3. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Clutches
Clutch Troubleshooting
1. Check the governor and throttle settings. See Engine RPM Adjustment on page 13b-22.
2. Inspect both clutches for dirt and debris buildup on component parts. Clean the exterior surfaces of both clutches with water…
3. Check the clean clutches for wear.
4. If cleaning both clutches does not solve the problem, disassemble and thoroughly clean all parts in the drive clutch. See Drive Clutch Cleaning and Inspection on page 13b-31.
5. Check the drive clutch rollers and weights for wear.
Drive Belt
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the clutch outer cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Removal on page 13b-37.
4. Grasp the belt midway between the drive and driven clutches, and squeeze the belt together as tightly as possible.
5. Guide the belt over the driven clutch and roll the belt off the driven clutch by rotating the clutch clockwise (Figure 13b-35, Page 13b-30). See following CAUTION.
1. Position the new belt on the drive clutch, and then start the belt over the top of the driven clutch.
2. Rotate the driven clutch clockwise, and roll the belt over the driven clutch sheaves and onto the clutch.
3. Install the clutch outer cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Installation on page 13b-37.
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Drive Clutch
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the top air filter hose (outlet) from the air filter canister.
4. Remove the clutch outer cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Removal on page 13b-37.
5. Remove the drive belt. See Drive Belt Removal on page 13b-30.
6. Remove the center bolt on the drive clutch.
7. Thread the clutch removal tool (CCI P/N 102686101) into the drive clutch center, and advance the tool until the clutch shaft is released. See following CAUTION.
8. Remove the drive clutch from the vehicle. See following CAUTION.
1. Use a dry, lint-free cloth to clean clutch parts. See following CAUTION.
2. Inspect the belt contact surfaces of the clutch sheaves for wear. If any area of a sheave contact surface has wear of 0.060 inch (1.52 mm) or more, the clutch should be replaced.
1. Use a 7/16-inch socket to remove the four bolts (1) and washers (2) that secure the plate (3) to the clutch cover (4) (Figure 13b-37, Page 13b-33).
2. Remove the cover (4) and spring (5) from the clutch spider (6).
3. Inspect the torque rollers (7), weights (11) and rollers (10). Replace if necessary.
4. Secure the Fixed sheave tool (CCI P/N 102601501) into a vice, or mount the tool to a flat work surface (Figure 13b-36, Page 13b-32).
5. Place the fixed sheave of the drive clutch onto the service tool so that the drive clutch is stationary.
6. Place the Spider tool (CCI P/N 102607501) on top of the spider.
7. Use a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to disengage the moveable sheave (14) and spider (6), which will come off as an assembly, from the fixed sheave (15) (Figure 13b-37, Page 13b-33).
1. Use a feeler gauge to inspect the torque rollers (7), and replace the rollers if necessary (Figure 13b-37, Page 13b-33).
2. Inspect the rollers (10) and weights (11). There should be no noticeable wear. If the rollers or weights are worn, scratched, or damaged, replace them.
1. Place the moveable sheave (14) and spider (6) onto the fixed sheave (15). Note the location of the X so the remaining components with an X can be aligned.
2. Use a spider removal tool (CCI P/N 102607501) to tighten the moveable sheave and spider to 225 ft-lb (305 N·m).
3. Install the spring (5) onto the shaft.
4. Install the cover (4) onto the shaft.
5. Align the plate that has holes in the cover with the arrows on the same side. Pull the moveable sheave upward and start threading bolts with washers into holes. See following NOTE.
6. Use a crisscross pattern to continue tightening the hardware.
7. Tighten the bolts to 10 ft-lb (14 N·m).
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Place the drive clutch assembly on the crankshaft taper.
4. Install the mounting washer and retaining bolt. Tighten the hardware to 39 ft-lb (53 N·m).
5. Install the drive belt as instructed. See Drive Belt Installation on page 13b-30.
6. Install the clutch cover, and tighten the bolts to 6 ft-lb (8.0 N·m).
7. Secure the top air filter hose (outlet) to the filter canister.
8. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
9. Drive the vehicle and check for proper operation.
Driven Clutch
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle is in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the top air filter hose from the filter canister.
4. Remove the clutch outer cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Removal on page 13b-37.
5. Remove the drive belt as instructed. See Drive Belt Removal on page 13b-30.
6. Remove the bolt and washer from the center of the clutch.
7. Thread the clutch removal tool (CCI P/N 102686101) into the driven clutch center, and advance the tool until the clutch shaft is released. See following CAUTION.
8. Remove the driven clutch. See following CAUTION.
1. Place the driven clutch onto the Spring compression base (CCI P/N 102603501) (Figure 13b-38, Page 13b-35).
2. Place the Spring compression collar (CCI P/N 102605201) onto the driven clutch.
3. Thread the Spring compression nut (CCI P/N 102606101) down onto the threaded post enough to release the pressure on the snap ring.
4. Use snap-ring pliers to remove the snap ring (1) (Figure 13b-39, Page 13b-36).
5. Slowly remove the spring compression nut. The collar will then rise and release tension on the spring (3).
6. Remove the cup (2) and spring (3).
7. Remove the moveable sheave (4) from the fixed sheave (5). See following NOTE.
1. Place the fixed sheave (5) onto the spring compression base and note the location of the X so that the X on the moveable sheave (4) can be aligned correctly (Figure 13b-39, Page 13b-36).
2. Place the moveable sheave (4) onto the fixed sheave (5), and align the X’s on both components.
3. Place the spring (3), cup (2), and snap ring (1) onto the clutch.
4. Place the spring compression collar onto the cup (Figure 13b-38, Page 13b-35).
5. Tighten the spring compression nut just enough to enable the snap ring to be installed.
6. Use the snap ring pliers to install snap ring.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Install the driven clutch assembly on the transmission shaft taper.
4. Install the mounting washer and retaining bolt. Tighten the hardware to 39 ft-lb (53 N·m).
5. Install the drive belt as instructed. See Drive Belt Installation on page 13b-30.
6. Install the clutch outer cover and tighten the screws to 6 ft-lb (8 N·m).
7. Install the top air filter hose on the filter canister.
8. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
9. Drive the vehicle and check for proper operation.
Clutch Cover
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle is in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the top air filter hose from the filter canister.
4. Remove the self-rolling screws, and remove the clutch outer cover.
1. Align the mounting holes in the clutch outer cover with the mounting holes in the clutch inner cover.
2. Install the screws, and tighten the hardware to 6 ft-lb (8 N·m).
3. Install the top air filter hose on the filter canister.
4. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305). See following NOTE.
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the outer clutch cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Removal on page 13b-37.
4. Remove the drive belt. See Drive Belt Removal on page 13b-30.
5. Remove the drive clutch. See Drive Clutch Removal on page 13b-31.
6. Remove the driven clutch. See Driven Clutch Removal on page 13b-35.
7. Remove the bolts, nuts, and washers from the inner clutch cover (Figure 13b-41, Page 13b-38). See following NOTE.
8. Remove the clutch cover.
9. Remove the inner cover spacer between the inner cover and the engine block (Figure 13b-42, Page 13b-38).
1. Position the inner cover spacer on the engine block, and use the stud bolts for alignment (Figure 13b-42, Page 13b-38).
2. Align the mounting holes in the clutch cover with the transmission and engine bolt holes.
3. Loosely install one bolt and washer in each transmission and engine bolt hole.
4. Finger-tighten the bolts and washers (Figure 13b-41, Page 13b-38). See following NOTE.
5. Tighten the engine bolts and washers to 21 ft-lb (28.5 N·m) (Figure 13b-40, Page 13b-38).
6. Tighten the engine stud bolt nuts to 21 ft-lb (28.5 N·m).
7. Tighten the transmission bolts and washers to 21 ft-lb (28.5 N·m).
8. Install the driven clutch. See Driven Clutch Installation on page 13b-37.
9. Install the drive clutch. See Drive Clutch Installation on page 13b-34.
10. Install the drive belt. See Drive Belt Installation on page 13b-30.
11. Install the outer clutch cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Installation on page 13b-37.
12. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).

Section 14 – Drivetrain Components
Half Shafts
Half Shaft Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the rear wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels.
4. Remove the rubber spindle nut covers from both front wheels.
5. Loosen the spindle nuts, and lift the front of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
6. Place jack stands under the lower A-frame plates, and lower the vehicle onto the stands (Figure 14-1, Page 14-1).
7. Remove both front wheels.
8. Remove both spindle nuts and large washers.
9. Remove the upper shock absorber bolt and locknut (Figure 14-2, Page 14-1).
10. Remove the lower shock absorber bolts and flanged locknuts. Remove the shock absorber and coil-over spring.
11. Remove the two hex-head bolts (shown with white marks on bolt heads) securing the caliper to the upright, and remove the caliper and discs (Figure 14-3, Page 14-2).
12. Position the caliper and discs on the top of the upper A-frame, and secure them with a wire tie. See following CAUTION.
13. Remove the two flanged bolts and square nuts from the camber adjustment bar (Figure 14-4, Page 14-2).
14. Lift the wheel hub up and away from the lower A-frame to remove the half shaft spindle from the wheel hub, and remove the camber bar from the lower A-frame.
15. Separate the half shaft hub from the differential, and remove the half shaft (Figure 14-5, Page 14-3). See following NOTE.
16. Repeat steps 9 through 15 for the remaining half shaft.
Half Shaft Installation
1. Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to each end of the half shaft splines (Figure 14-7, Page 14-3).
2. Install the half shaft into the front differential. Advance the half shaft until the compression ring seats into the groove inside the differential housing.
3. Lift the wheel hub and upper A-frame. Slide the half shaft spindle into the wheel hub, and insert the camber adjustment bar into the lower A-frame slot.
4. Loosely secure the flanged bolts and new square nuts to the camber adjustment bar and lower A-frame (Figure 14-4, Page 14-2).
5. Install a large washer and new nut on the half shaft spindle and wheel hub. Finger-tighten the hardware.
6. Secure the caliper and discs to the upright and wheel hub disc with new lock-patch bolts. Tighten the hardware to 36 ft-lb (49 N·m) (Figure 14-3, Page 14-2). See following CAUTION.
7. Secure the lower shock absorber mount to the upper A-frame with new flanged-head bolts and locknuts. Tighten the hardware to 22 ft-lb (30 N·m).
8. Secure the top shock absorber mount to the flanged brackets on the frame with a new flanged-head bolt and flanged locknut. Tighten the hardware to 73 ft-lb (99 N·m) (Figure 14-2, Page 14-1).
9. Install the tire and wheel, and finger-tighten the lug nuts.
10. Repeat steps 1 through 9 for the remaining half shaft and wheel.
11. Lift the front of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower the vehicle to the ground. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
12. Use a crisscross pattern to tighten the lug nuts on both front wheels to 85 ft-lb (115 N·m).
13. Tighten both spindle locknuts to 150 ft-lb (203 N·m).
14. Adjust the front wheel camber. See Camber Adjustment, Section 7, Page 7-11.
15. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Front Differential
Front Differential Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels.
4. Loosen the spindle nuts and lift the front of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
5. Place jack stands under the lower A-frame plates, and lower the vehicle onto the stands (Figure 14-1, Page 14-1).
6. Remove both half shafts. See Half Shaft Removal on page 14-1.
7. Remove the roll pin from the differential output shaft and front drive shaft (Figure 14-8, Page 14-5). See following NOTE.
8. Remove the vent tube from the differential housing (Figure 14-9, Page 14-5).
9. Disconnect the electric clutch line from the differential at the connector behind the splash guard (Figure 14-10, Page 14-5). See following NOTE.
10. Remove the four flange-head bolts from the frame support weldments (Figure 14-11, Page 14-5). See following NOTE.
11. Pull the front differential, differential plate, and driveshaft forward and away from the transmission end of the splined universal joint. Tip the unit downward, and remove it from the vehicle. See following NOTE.
Front Differential Installation
1. Position the front differential and plate on the two frame support weldments. Align the splined coupling on the universal joint so the roll pin hole in the spline coupling aligns with the roll pin hole in the differential shaft.
2. Slide the driveshaft into place with the transmission end of the universal joint coupling on the transmission splined shaft.
3. Secure the differential plate to the frame support weldments with new flange-head bolts. Tighten the hardware to 23 ft-lb (31 N·m) (Figure 14-11, Page 14-5).
4. Connect the electric clutch line to the connector behind the splash guard (Figure 14-10, Page 14-5).
5. Connect the vent tube to the differential housing (Figure 14-9, Page 14-5). See following NOTE.
6. Drive a new roll pin into the differential shaft and driveshaft universal joint coupling. See following NOTE.
7. Fill the front differential with the specified lubricant. See Lubrication Change for Front Differential, Transmission, and Rear Differential, Section 10, Page 10-11.
8. Install the half shafts. See Half Shaft Installation on page 14-3.
9. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Front Driveshaft
Front Driveshaft Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the rear wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the roll pin from the differential output shaft and front drive shaft (Figure 14-8, Page 14-5). See following NOTE.
4. Remove the bolts from the front differential plate, and slide the differential as far forward as possible.
5. Slide the front driveshaft toward the transmission until the universal joint clears the front differential.
6. Slide the driveshaft away from the transmission, through the tube-shaped frame shield, and remove the driveshaft from vehicle.
Front Driveshaft Installation
1. Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the splined output shaft on the front differential.
2. Slide the front driveshaft through the tube-shaped frame shield and onto the splined shaft of the transmission.
3. Slide the front differential shaft into the universal joint so the roll pin holes in the driveshaft and differential shaft are aligned.
4. Secure the differential plate to the frame support weldments with new flange-head bolts. Tighten the hardware to 23 ft-lb (31 N·m) (Figure 14-11, Page 14-5).
5. Drive a new roll pin into the differential shaft and driveshaft universal joint coupling. See following NOTE.
6. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Rear Receiver Hitch
Rear Receiver Hitch Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the rear wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the hydraulic line T-bracket from the passenger side of the receiver hitch.
4. Remove the hydraulic line from the rubber grommets and hitch frame.
5. Remove the four bolts, washers, and flanged locknuts from the receiver hitch frame and swing arm mounting plates, and remove the receiver hitch.
Rear Receiver Hitch Installation
1. Position the receiver hitch onto the swing arm mounting plates and mounting holes.
2. Secure the receiver hitch with new bolts, flat washers, and new flanged locknuts. Tighten the hardware to 82 ft-lb (111 N·m).
3. Secure the hydraulic brake line T-fitting, and tighten the hardware to 48 in-lb (7 N·m) (Figure 14-13, Page 14-9).
4. Secure the hydraulic brake line in the rubber grommets on the hitch frame.
5. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Rear Axle
Rear Axle Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the front wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels, and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
4. Place jack stands under the outside frames, as close to the rear of the vehicle as the frames will support. Lower the vehicle onto the stands (Figure 14-12, Page 14-8). See following DANGER.
5. Remove both rear wheels.
6. Remove the hydraulic brake line T-fitting and bracket from the passenger-side receiver frame (Figure 14-13, Page 14-9).
7. Remove the hydraulic brake line P-clamp from the rear differential (Figure 14-14, Page 14-9).
8. Remove the hydraulic brake lines from all frame-mounted rubber grommets.
9. Remove both park brake cables from the rear brake calipers and park brake levers (Figure 14-15, Page 14-10).
10. Remove the hex-head bolts securing the brake caliper to the axle flange.
11. Install the brake calipers on the swing arms, and fasten them temporarily with wire ties. See following CAUTION.
12. Position the floor jack under the differential, and raise the jack just enough to support the axle (Figure 14-16, Page 14-10).
13. Remove the rear shock absorbers. See Rear Shock Absorber Removal, Section 9, Page 9-1.
14. Remove the rear receiver hitch. See Rear Receiver Hitch Removal on page 14-7.
15. Remove the roll pin from the differential splined shaft and rear drive shaft universal coupling. See following NOTE.
16. Remove the four bolts, two spacer bars, and flanged locknuts from the axle and swing arm mounting plates. See following NOTE and CAUTION.
17. Support the rear drive shaft, and slide the axle and differential away from the drive shaft universal joint and swing arm brackets. See preceding NOTE.
18. Move the axle and rear differential assembly to a safe area away from the vehicle. See previous NOTE.
Rear Axle Installation
1. Support the differential with a floor jack, and place the axle assembly under the rear of the vehicle, just below the swing arms.
2. Support the longest end of the axle assembly, and raise the axle up to the swing arm axle mounting plates.
3. Align the differential splined shaft and hole with the drive shaft universal joint and hole.
4. Align the roll pin holes in the differential shaft with the drive shaft coupling, and drive a new roll pin into place. See following NOTE.
5. Secure the axle to the outside of the swing arms at four locations with new bolts and washers. Finger- tighten the hardware.
6. Secure the rear receiver hitch to the inside of the swing arms and axle at four locations with new bolts and washers. Finger-tighten the hardware.
7. Tighten all eight axle mounting bolts to 95 ft-lb (129 N·m).
8. Secure the bottom end of the shock absorbers to the axle bracket (Figure 14-17, Page 14-11). See following NOTE.
9. Install both rear brake calipers and discs. See Rear Brake Caliper Installation, Section 6, Page 6-9.
10. Secure the hydraulic brake lines to the rubber grommets at all frame locations. See following CAUTION.
11. Secure the P-clamp to the hydraulic brake line on top of the differential body. Tighten the hardware to 11 ft-lb (15 N·m) (Figure 14-14, Page 14-9).
12. Secure the hydraulic line T-fitting to the receiver hitch frame, and tighten the bolt to 48 in-lb (7 N·m) (Figure 14-13, Page 14-9).
13. Adjust the park brake. See Park Brake Adjustment, Section 6, Page 6-23.
14. Install both rear wheels, and finger-tighten the lug nuts.
15. Lower and remove the floor jack.
16. Lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack, and remove the jack stands. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
17. Use a crisscross pattern to tighten the lug nuts on both rear wheels to 85 ft-lb (115 N·m).
18. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Rear Driveshaft
Rear Driveshaft Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL.
2. Push the car to a position that enables easy access to the roll pin in the rear differential and rear driveshaft. Chock the front wheels.
3. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
4. Gasoline vehicles: Disconnect the spark plug wires. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
5. Remove the roll pin from the rear differential and drive shaft universal joint. See following NOTE.
6. Slide the driveshaft forward on the transmission to release the driveshaft from the differential shaft. Then slide the driveshaft toward the rear, and off the transmission shaft.
Rear Driveshaft Installation
1. Apply a light coat of anti-seize on the splined shaft of the differential.
2. Slide the universal joint of the drive shaft (with grease fitting) onto the splined transmission shaft.
3. Slide the differential shaft into driveshaft universal joint. Align the roll pin holes in the driveshaft with the pin holes in the differential shaft.
4. Drive a new roll pin into the differential shaft and the driveshaft universal joint coupling. See following NOTE.
5. Gasoline vehicles: Connect the spark plug wires.
6. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Transmission
Troubleshooting
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key.
2. Fully engage the shift lever into forward then reverse gear (Figure 14-18, Page 14-13). If the shift lever contacts the ends …
3. In addition to checking the shift lever contact with the dash, disconnect the shift cable from the transmission bell crank and shift lever arm (Figure 14-19, Page 14-13 and Figure 14-20, Page 14-13).
4. Move the shift lever arm, transmission bell crank and shift cable to ensure all components move freely.
5. Inspect the transmission shift cable for any cuts or tears in the cover. Ensure the cable does not have any sharp bends or kinks. Re-route or replace the cable as required. See Forward/Reverse Shifter Cable, Section 14, Page 14-18.
6. Check the cable brackets. Make sure the brackets are not bent and all bracket and cable hardware is tight (Figure 14-20, Page 14-13).
7. Inspect the bell crank for movement on the transmission shift shaft (Figure 14-21, Page 14-13). If the nut is tight, a loose …
8. If the steps listed above do not correct the difficult shifting transmission or transmission disengagement, install a new Neutral Switch Repair Kit (CCI P/N 102765101) as described below.
1. Locate the shift detent housing on the right side of the transmission near the transmission bell crank (Figure 14-23, Page 14-14). Clean the area around the detent housing.
2. Disconnect the neutral switch connector.
3. Remove the detent housing. The entire assembly including the neutral switch and detent housing must be removed from the transmission case.
4. Install the Neutral Switch Repair Kit (Figure 14-24, Page 14-14). Apply a small bead of Loctite® 545 Red or equivalent to the…
5. Re-connect the neutral switch connector.
Transmission Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Gasoline vehicles: Disconnect the spark plug wires. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
4. Remove the outer clutch cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Removal on page 13a-40 (gasoline vehicles) or Clutch Outer Cover Removal on page 13b-37 (diesel vehicles).
5. Remove the drive belt. See Drive Belt Removal on page 13a-32 (gasoline vehicles) or Drive Belt Removal on page 13b-30 (diesel vehicles).
6. Remove the drive clutch. See Drive Clutch Removal on page 13a-33 (gasoline vehicles) or Drive Clutch Removal on page 13b-31 (diesel vehicles).
7. Remove the driven clutch. See Driven Clutch Removal on page 13a-37 (gasoline vehicles) or Driven Clutch Removal on page 13b-35 (diesel vehicles).
8. Remove the rear driveshaft. See Rear Driveshaft Removal on page 14-11.
9. Remove the inner clutch cover. See Clutch Inner Cover Removal on page 13a-41 (gasoline vehicles) or Clutch Inner Cover Removal on page 13b-38 (diesel vehicles).
10. Remove the passenger seat.
11. Gasoline vehicles: Remove the governor guard. See Governor Guard Removal, Section 13a, Page 13a-21.
12. Disconnect the accelerator cable and strain relief grommet from the governor arm (Figure 14-25, Page 14-16).
13. Disconnect the governor cable and strain relief grommet from the governor arm.
14. Remove the governor arm.
15. Remove the transmission Forward/Reverse shifter cable ball socket from the ball on the transmission shifter arm (Figure 14-31, Page 14-20).
16. Disconnect the neutral sensing connector from the transmission (Figure 14-26, Page 14-16).
17. Remove the two flange-head bolts, washers, and locknuts from the transmission slotted base brackets and engine mounting plate. See following NOTE.
18. Lift the transmission body slightly to clear the opening in the engine mounting plate. Remove the transmission from the rear of the vehicle.
Transmission Installation
1. Ensure the base brackets are installed on the transmission, and install the transmission on the engine mounting plate.
2. Align the base bracket slots with the mounting holes in the engine mounting plate. See following NOTE.
3. Secure the clutch inner cover to the engine and clutch body with bolts and washers. Finger-tighten the hardware. See following NOTE.
4. Gasoline vehicles: See Clutch Inner Cover Installation, Section 13a, Page 13a-41. Diesel vehicles: See Clutch Inner Cover Installation, Section 13b, Page 13b-39.
5. Tighten the transmission body base flange-head bolt and flange-head locknut to 39 ft-lb (53 N·m).
6. If removed, install two new bolts, flat washers, and new flanged locknuts on the transmission base brackets and engine mounting plate. Tighten the hardware to 21 ft-lb (29 N·m).
7. Connect the neutral sensing connector on the transmission to the wire harness (Figure 14-26, Page 14-16).
8. Secure the Forward/Reverse shifter cable ball socket to the ball on the transmission shifter arm (Figure 14-31, Page 14-20). See following NOTE.
9. Gasoline vehicles: Install the ground speed governor arm (Figure 14-25, Page 14-16).
10. Gasoline vehicles: Secure the governor cable from the engine to the governor arm. See Governor Cable Installation, Section 13a, Page 13a-22.
11. Gasoline vehicles: Secure the accelerator cable to the governor arm. See Accelerator Cable Installation, Section 13a, Page 13a-19.
12. Gasoline vehicles: Adjust the ground speed governor arm. See Ground Speed (Transmission) Governor Arm Adjustment, Section 13a, Page 13a-23.
13. Gasoline vehicles: Install the governor guard. See Governor Guard Installation, Section 13a, Page 13a-21.
14. Both gasoline and diesel vehicles: Install the rear driveshaft. See Rear Driveshaft Installation on page 14-12.
15. Install the driven clutch. See Driven Clutch Installation, Section 13a, Page 13a-39 (gasoline vehicles) and Driven Clutch Installation, Section 13b, Page 13b-37 (diesel vehicles).
16. Install the drive clutch. See Drive Clutch Installation, Section 13a, Page 13a-37 (gasoline vehicles) and Drive Clutch Installation, Section 13b, Page 13b-34 (diesel vehicles).
17. Install the drive belt. See Drive Belt Installation, Section 13a, Page 13a-33 (gasoline vehicles) and Drive Belt Installation, Section 13b, Page 13b-30 (diesel vehicles).
18. Install the clutch outer cover. See Clutch Outer Cover Installation, Section 13a, Page 13a-40 (gasoline vehicles) and Clutch Outer Cover Installation, Section 13b, Page 13b-37 (diesel vehicles).
19. Install the rear axle and differential. See Rear Axle Installation on page 14-10.
20. Remove the transmission fill plug, and fill the transmission with the correct amount of appropriate lubricant (Figure 14-28, Page 14-18). See Lubrication Change for Front Differential, Transmission, and Rear Differential on page 10-11.
21. Tighten wheel lug nuts to 85 ft-lb (115 N·m).
22. Gasoline vehicles: Connect the spark plug wires.
23. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Forward/Reverse Shifter Cable
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Gasoline vehicles: Disconnect the spark plug wires. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
4. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 4, Page 4-2.
5. Remove the dashboard. See Dashboard Removal, Section 4, Page 4-4.
6. Remove the front body. See Front Body Removal, Section 4, Page 4-5.
7. Remove the passenger seat.
8. Disconnect the cable ball socket from the shifter arm ball stud (Figure 14-29, Page 14-19).
9. Loosen the flanged nuts from the cable at the dash bracket (Figure 14-30, Page 14-19).
10. Disconnect the cable ball socket from the shifter ball stud on the transmission shifter arm (Figure 14-31, Page 14-20).
11. Loosen the flanged nuts from the cable bracket that is below the transmission ball socket.
12. Note the positions of the wire ties that secure the cable between the dash and the transmission, and then remove the wire ties. See following NOTE.
13. Remove the shifter cable.
1. Secure a new cable to the transmission end of the nylon cord at the dash frame. Pull and route the cable from the dash frame to the transmission. See following NOTE.
2. Secure the ball socket to the ball stud on the Forward/Reverse shifter handle at the dash (Figure 14-29, Page 14-19).
3. Loosen the flanged nut farthest from the handle end as far away from the handle end as the thread will allow.
4. Advance the front flanged nut away from the rear nut. Allow enough room to install the cable and two flanged nuts on the Forward/Reverse cable bracket on the dash frame.
5. Adjust the shifter cable. See Forward/Reverse Shifter Cable Adjustment on page 14-20.
1. Loosen the flanged cable nuts from the cable end at the transmission.
2. Verify that the transmission shifter arm is in the neutral position.
3. Secure the ball socket to the ball stud on the transmission shifter arm. See following NOTE.
4. Hold the shifter arm on the transmission in the neutral position, and align the shifter handle with the neutral position mark on the instrument panel. See following NOTE.
5. Advance the front flanged nut, closest to the transmission shifter arm, up against the front side of the Forward/Reverse shifter bracket.
6. Advance the rear flanged nut, farthest away from the transmission shifter arm, down next to the back side of the FNR shifter bracket and tighten the front nut to 25 ft-lb (34 N·m).
7. Install the front body. See Front Body Installation, Section 4, Page 4-5.
8. Install the dashboard. See Dashboard Installation, Section 4, Page 4-4.
9. Install the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Installation, Section 4, Page 4-4.
10. Move the shifter handle to the FORWARD, NEUTRAL, and REVERSE positions. Ensure that the shifter handle is clear of the instrument panel in the FORWARD and REVERSE positions and is aligned with the center of the two for the neutral position.
11. Install the passenger seat.
12. Gasoline vehicles: Connect the spark plug wires.
13. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Forward/Reverse Shifter Handle
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Set the park brake. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
3. Remove the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Removal, Section 4, Page 4-2.
4. Remove the dashboard. See Dashboard Removal, Section 4, Page 4-4.
5. Disconnect the cable ball socket from the shifter arm ball stud (Figure 14-29, Page 14-19).
6. Remove the socket-head pivot shoulder bolt, nylon spacer, two large flat washers, and nylon locknut from the shifter handle and frame bracket.
7. Remove the shifter handle.
1. Secure the shifter handle with a new socket-head pivot shoulder bolt (CCI P/N 102684601), nylon spacer, two large flat washers, and a new nylon locknut. Tighten the hardware to 40 in-lb (5 N·m) (Figure 14-29, Page 14-19). See following NOTE.
2. Secure the ball socket to the ball stud on the Forward/Reverse shifter handle at the dash.
3. Install the dashboard. See Dashboard Installation, Section 4, Page 4-4.
4. Install the instrument panel. See Instrument Panel Installation, Section 4, Page 4-4.
5. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Rear Differential and Axles
Rear Differential Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Chock the front wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Gasoline vehicles: Disconnect the spark plug wires. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
4. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels, and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
5. Place jack stands under the outside frames, as close to the rear of the vehicle as the frames will support. Lower the vehicle onto the stands (Figure 14-12, Page 14-8).
6. Remove the rear wheels.
7. Remove the rear wheel hubs and discs. See Wheel Removal, Section 8, Page 8-2.
8. Remove the rear receiver hitch. See Rear Receiver Hitch Removal on page 14-7.
9. Place a large pan under the differential. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the differential housing. Drain the differential lubricant.
10. Remove the rear axle. See Rear Axle Removal on page 14-8.
11. Remove the rear drive shaft. See Rear Driveshaft Removal on page 14-11. See following NOTE and CAUTION.
12. Remove the six flange-head bolts and flat washers from the passenger-side axle tube and differential.
13. Separate the passenger-side axle tube flange from the differential case. The axle and splined end must be clear of the differential (Figure 14-32, Page 14-23).
14. Remove the six flange-head bolts and flat washers from the driver-side axle tube and differential.
15. Separate the driver-side axle tube flange from the differential case and pull straight away until the axle and splined end is clear of the differential.
Rear Axle Shafts and Wheel Bearings
1. Remove the rear differential from the two rear axle housing and axle shaft assemblies. See Rear Differential Removal on page 14-22.
2. Pull the axle shaft out of the axle housing at the differential flange.
3. Remove the outboard snap ring.
4. Use a rod and push the rear seal and wheel bearing toward the wheel hub end and out of the axle housing hub.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the opposite wheel bearing.
1. Replace the rear seal and wheel bearing in the axle housing hub.
2. Install the outboard snap ring.
3. Slide the axle shaft back into the axle housing from the differential flange end.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the remaining wheel bearing.
Rear Differential Installation
1. Clean all mating surfaces on both axle tubes and both flanged sides of the differential housing.
2. Clean the splined area on both axles.
3. Apply a 3/16-inch wide bead of Three Bond No. 1215 (CCI P/N 101928701) to both mating surfaces on the differential housing.
4. Secure the axles and axle tubes to the differential housing. See following NOTE.
5. Apply Loctite 2760 to new flange-head bolts, and install the bolts and flat washers. Use a crisscross pattern to tighten the hardware to 100 ft-lb (136 N·m). See following CAUTION.
6. Install the rear driveshaft. See Rear Driveshaft Installation on page 14-12.
7. Install the rear axle. See Rear Axle Installation on page 14-10.
8. Install rear receiver hitch. See Rear Receiver Hitch Installation on page 14-7.
9. Add lubricant to the differential. See Lubrication Change for Front Differential, Transmission, and Rear Differential on page 10-11.
10. Install the rear wheel hubs and discs. See Rear Wheel Disc Removal, Section 6, Page 6-15.
11. Install the rear wheels, and finger-tighten the lug nuts.
12. Lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack, and remove the jack stands. See WARNING “Lift only one end…” in General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-2.
13. Tighten the lug nuts on the rear wheels to 85 ft-lb (115 N·m).
14. Gasoline vehicles: Connect spark plug wires.
15. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).

Section 15 – Radiator and Coolant System (Diesel)
General Information
Engine Coolant Check
1. Check the coolant level in the reservoir. If the coolant level is at or below the LOW mark, add water until the level reaches the FULL mark. See following WARNING and NOTE.
Engine Coolant Change
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL, and chock the rear wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in See General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Open the reservoir cap. See following WARNING.
4. Place a large pan under the radiator and engine drain plugs.
5. Turn the drain valve at the radiator counterclockwise, for one and one-half turns only, to drain coolant from radiator. See following NOTE.
6. Turn the drain valve on the engine counterclockwise to drain coolant (Figure 15-1, Page 15-2).
7. Remove the engine block coolant plug from the rear of the engine (Figure 15-2, Page 15-2). See following NOTE.
8. Drain coolant from the reservoir, radiator, and engine completely.
9. Check the hoses and clamps for looseness or damage. Replace if necessary.
10. Check the radiator for leaks or severe coil damage. Replace the radiator if damage has created a leak, or has caused flow restriction from crushed coils.
11. Close both drain plugs but leave the engine block coolant plug open.
12. Fill the coolant system with an appropriate coolant mixture at the reservoir. Allow the coolant to fill until it reaches the engine block coolant plug. See following NOTE.
13. Apply Loctite 567 Liquid Thread Sealer to the threads of the block coolant plug.
14. Install the engine block coolant plug and tighten to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m).
15. Fill the reservoir to the full mark with an appropriate coolant mixture, and check for leaks.
16. Replace the radiator cap and the reservoir cap.
17. Start and run the engine until it reaches operating temperature. Monitor the coolant level in the reservoir.
18. Stop the engine and allow the engine and coolant to cool. See following WARNING.
19. Remove the reservoir cap, and add coolant until the level reaches the FULL mark. See preceding WARNING.
20. Replace the reservoir cap.
Coolant Reservoir
Coolant Reservoir Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL, and chock the rear wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in See General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the dashboard. See Dashboard Removal, Section 4, Page 4-4.
4. Remove the reservoir cap. See following WARNING.
5. Place a large pan under the radiator and front differential to collect coolant. See following NOTE.
6. Remove the engine block coolant plug from the rear of the engine (Figure 15-2, Page 15-2).
7. Loosen the clamp, and remove the reservoir hose at the T-fitting under the front splash guard. Drain the coolant from the reservoir into a pan (Figure 15-3, Page 15-3). See preceding NOTE.
8. Loosen the clamp, and remove the outlet hose from the reservoir (Figure 15-4, Page 15-3).
9. Loosen the clamp, and remove the vent hose from the reservoir.
10. Gently slide the reservoir toward the vehicle seat and away from the dimpled aluminum bracket and indentions in the reservoir. Remove the reservoir.
Coolant Reservoir Installation
1. Gently slide the reservoir between the aluminum bracket until the dimples align with the indentations in the reservoir.
2. Feed the reservoir outlet hose through the hole in the splash guard. See following CAUTION.
3. Install the reservoir outlet hose on the reservoir, and secure the hose clamp.
4. Install the reservoir hose on the radiator T-fitting, and secure the hose clamp.
5. Install the reservoir vent hose, and secure the hose clamp.
6. Fill the coolant system with an appropriate coolant mixture at the reservoir. Allow the coolant to fill until it reaches the engine block coolant plug. See following NOTE.
7. Apply Loctite 567 Liquid Thread Sealer to the threads of the block coolant plug.
8. Install the engine block coolant plug and tighten to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m).
9. Fill the reservoir to the full mark with an appropriate coolant mixture, and check for leaks.
10. Replace the radiator and reservoir caps.
11. Install the dashboard. See Dashboard Installation, Section 4, Page 4-4.
12. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
13. Start and run the engine until it reaches operating temperature, and check for leaks.
14. Stop the engine and allow the engine and coolant to cool.
15. If necessary, remove the reservoir cap and add coolant until the coolant level reaches the FULL mark. See following WARNING.
Radiator
Radiator Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and remove the key. Place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL, and chock the rear wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in See General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the dashboard. See Dashboard Removal, Section 4, Page 4-4.
4. Remove the front body. See Front Body Removal, Section 4, Page 4-5.
5. Drain the radiator and reservoir. See following WARNING.
6. Loosen the clamp, and remove the bottom radiator hose.
7. Remove the radiator bottom shield plate bolts (Figure 15-5, Page 15-5).
8. Remove the front frame bolts from the radiator guard (Figure 15-6, Page 15-5).
9. Remove the flanged locknuts from the right and left sides of the upper radiator mount bracket (Figure 15-7, Page 15-6).
10. Remove the rear flanged bolts from the upper radiator mount bracket at the top of the frame (Figure 15-8, Page 15-6).
11. Remove the two bolts, locknuts, and washers from the outside upper radiator mount bracket at the front frame guard tube. Remove the brackets (Figure 15-9, Page 15-6).
12. Remove the two bolts and nylon locknuts from the top radiator guard (Figure 15-10, Page 15-6).
13. Loosen the clamp, and remove the upper vent hose from the radiator.
14. Loosen the clamp, and remove the top radiator hose.
15. Disconnect the electric fan connector.
16. Remove the two bolts, washers, and locknuts from the inside top front frame guard tube (Figure 15-11, Page 15-7). See following NOTE and CAUTION.
17. Push the back splash guard, and lift the radiator up, forward, and away from the vehicle. See following NOTE.
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and remove the key. Set the park brake, and chock the wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in See General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Remove the front body. See Front Body Removal, Section 4, Page 4-5.
4. Locate the blue wire and black wire that extend from the fan motor. Disconnect the two-pin connector from the wire harness.
5. Remove the four bolts from the fan shroud and radiator shroud. See following NOTE.
6. Remove the electric fan assembly.
1. Position the electric fan shroud on the aluminum radiator shroud so that the electrical wiring and connector are just below the radiator fill spout.
2. Secure the fan shroud to the vehicle with four lock-patch bolts, and tighten the hardware to 4 ft-lb (5 N·m).
3. Connect the two-pin connector on the blue wire and black wire from the fan motor to the blue wire and black wire that extend from the vehicle wire harness.
4. Install the front body. See Front Body Installation, Section 4, Page 4-5.
5. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Radiator Installation
1. Slide the radiator into place with the bottom in the aluminum frame channel.
2. Connect the top radiator hose and clamp.
3. Connect the bottom radiator hose and clamp.
4. Connect the electric fan wiring connector.
5. Connect the top radiator vent hose and clamp.
6. Install two new top front frame guard tube bolts, washers, and new locknuts at both inside locations (Figure 15-11, Page 15-7). Tighten the hardware to 37 ft-lb (50 N·m).
7. Install the top radiator guard (Figure 15-10, Page 15-6). Tighten the bolts and nylon locknuts to 21 ft-lb (28 N·m).
8. Install the left- and right-side radiator top brackets.
9. Install the radiator guard.
10. Install the coolant reservoir. See Coolant Reservoir Installation on page 15-4.
11. Install the front body. See Front Body Installation, Section 4, Page 4-5.
12. Install the dashboard. See Dashboard Installation, Section 4, Page 4-4.
13. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten the hardware to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
Coolant Pipe Weldment (Steel)
Coolant Pipe Weldment Removal
1. Turn the key switch OFF, and place the Forward/Reverse handle in NEUTRAL. Remove the key. Chock the rear wheels.
2. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING “To avoid unintentionally starting…” in See General Warning, Section 1, Page 1-1.
3. Drain the radiator and reservoir. See following WARNING.
4. Place a large pan under each hose end for each coolant pipe.
5. Remove the bolt securing the front of the weldment to the vehicle frame.
6. Remove the two bolts securing the rear of the weldment to the vehicle frame.
7. Remove the bolt, washer, and clamp from each coolant pipe that is closest to the engine. Remove the pipes.
8. Remove the clamps from the overflow coolant pipe, and remove the coolant pipe weldment.
Coolant Pipe Weldment Installation
1. Position the coolant pipe weldment under the vehicle frame with the two adjacent ends closest to the front of the vehicle.
2. Secure the front of the coolant pipe weldment to the vehicle frame with a bolt. Tighten the bolt to 21 ft- lb (28 N·m).
3. Secure the rear of the coolant pipe weldment to the vehicle frame with two bolts. Tighten the bolts to 21 ft-lb (28 N·m).
4. Install a clamp and bolt on each end of the coolant pipe hose connections. Tighten the hardware to 21 ft- lb (28 N·m).
5. Secure the engine coolant inlet hose (outlet from radiator) to the engine port.
6. Secure the engine coolant outlet hose (return to radiator) to the engine port.
7. Secure the radiator outlet (outlet from radiator) to the engine inlet coolant pipe.
8. Secure the radiator return (inlet to radiator) to the engine outlet coolant pipe.
9. Secure the overflow hose from the engine to the overflow pipe.
10. Secure the overflow pipe hose to the radiator overflow and reservoir T-connection.
11. Close the drain valves.
12. Fill the coolant system at the reservoir with the appropriate coolant mixture. Allow the coolant to fill until it reaches the engine block coolant plug. See following NOTE.
13. Apply Loctite 567 Liquid Thread Sealer to the threads of the block coolant plug.
14. Install the engine block coolant plug and tighten to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m).
15. Fill the reservoir to the FULL mark with an appropriate coolant mixture, and check for leaks.
16. Install the reservoir cap.
17. Connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first, and tighten terminals to 12 ft-lb (16 N·m). Coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector Spray (CCI P/N 1014305).
18. Start and run the engine until it reaches operating temperature and check for leaks.
19. Stop the engine, and allow the engine and coolant to cool.
20. If necessary, add coolant to the reservoir until the coolant level reaches the full mark. See following WARNING.

Section 16 – Transmission Models 420317 and 420682
General Information
Model Identification
Service Fixture
Transmission Removal
Transmission Disassembly
1. Position the transmission case on the service fixture with the drain plug over the right side edge allowing the transmission …
2. Position a service fixture, built like the one illustrated, with the through hole for the output shaft located to the right o…
3. Remove hex-head case bolts (Figure 16-5, Page 16-3).
4. Separate the case halves. See following NOTE.
5. Remove the neutral sensing switch, plunger and spring from the case (Figure 16-7, Page 16-4).
6. Remove the top half of the case (Figure 16-8, Page 16-4).
7. Remove the input shaft, gear and ground speed governor assembly (Figure 16-9, Page 16-4). See following NOTES.
8. Remove the ground speed governor yoke bracket from the governor shaft (Figure 16-10, Page 16-5).
9. Remove the ground speed governor shaft and seal from the case by tapping gently with a small hammer from inside the case (Figure 16-11, Page 16-5). See following CAUTION.
10. Remove the input shaft bearing from the case cavity (Figure 16-12, Page 16-5).
11. Press the input shaft helical gear bearing from the shaft if the bearing is worn or damaged and replace with a new bearing. See Input Shaft Disassembly on page 16-8. See following CAUTION.
12. Lift the intermediate and output shafts and gear assemblies slightly so that the shaft bearings are free from the back side case.
13. Hold the shafts and gear assemblies up and move them away from the engagement gear fork.
14. Rotate the bell crank arm downward allowing the shifter fork and gear fork shaft pin to separate (Figure 16-13, Page 16-6).
15. Lift the gear fork from the transmission (Figure 16-14, Page 16-6). See following NOTE.
16. Lift the intermediate and output shafts and gear assemblies from the case (Figure 16-15, Page 16-6).
17. Remove the back half of the case from the service fixture and cover the fixture with a heavy cloth.
18. Position the intermediate and output shaft gear assembly onto the fixture covered with a heavy cloth to reduce the chance of damage to gear and sprocket teeth (Figure 16-16, Page 16-7).
19. Separate the intermediate and output gear assemblies by removing the chain drive from the large sprocket on the output shaft (Figure 16-17, Page 16-7) and (Figure 16-18, Page 16-7). See following NOTE.
20. Remove the chain from the intermediate gear assembly small sprocket and the output gear assembly large sprocket (Figure 16-19, Page 16-7).
Input Shaft Disassembly
1. If the input shaft is to be re-used, press the old bearing from the helical gear end of the shaft, using a hydraulic press and bearing puller (CCI P/N 1012812), or three-jaw screw type bearing puller (Figure 16-20, Page 16-8). See following CAUTION.
Input Shaft Assembly
1. Press a new bearing onto the input shaft, pushing the inner race until bearing seats against the helical gear hub (Figure 16-21, Page 16-8). See following CAUTION.
Intermediate Shaft Disassembly
1. Position a bearing puller wedge attachment between the large helical gear and the intermediate shaft bearing and support the wedge attachment on press blocks to clear gear (Figure 16-22, Page 16-9).
2. Position a bar or socket slightly smaller in diameter than the intermediate shaft and press the bearing from the helical gear and intermediate shaft (Figure 16-23, Page 16-9). See following CAUTION.
3. Remove the E-clip and flat washer from the intermediate shaft and the large helical gear and slide the gear from the splined shaft (Figure 16-24, Page 16-9).
4. Remove the E-clip and splined-cut washer from the intermediate shaft and small chain sprocket (Figure 16-25, Page 16-9). See following NOTE.
5. Slide the sprocket and engagement gear from the shaft and two needle bearing assemblies (Figure 16-27, Page 16-10).
6. Slide the engagement dog gear from the intermediate gear assembly shaft (Figure 16-27, Page 16-10).
7. Remove the two needle bearing assemblies from the intermediate shaft. See following NOTE.
8. Remove the engagement dog ring from the intermediate shaft (Figure 16-28, Page 16-10).
9. Position a bearing puller wedge attachment between the small helical gear and the intermediate shaft bearing, and support the wedge attachment on press blocks to clear the gear (Figure 16-30, Page 16-11). See following CAUTION.
10. Position a bar or socket slightly smaller in diameter than the intermediate shaft and press the bearing from the helical gear and intermediate shaft (Figure 16-31, Page 16-11).
11. Remove the snap ring and flat washer next to the small helical gear (Figure 16-32, Page 16-11).
12. Slide the small helical and engagement gear assembly from the intermediate shaft and two needle bearing assemblies (Figure 16-33, Page 16-11).
13. Slide the two needle bearing assemblies off the intermediate shaft (Figure 16-34, Page 16-12).
Output Shaft Disassembly
1. Position a bearing puller wedge attachment between the large chain sprocket and the output shaft bearing and support the wedge attachment on press blocks to clear the gear (Figure 16-35, Page 16-12).
2. Position a bar or socket slightly smaller in diameter than the output shaft and press the bearing from the large chain sprocket and shaft.
3. Remove the snap ring and flat washer from the large chain sprocket and output shaft (Figure 16-36, Page 16-12).
4. Remove the splined chain sprocket from the output shaft (Figure 16-37, Page 16-13).
5. Position a bearing puller wedge attachment between the large helical gear and the output shaft bearing and support the wedge attachment on press blocks to clear the gear (Figure 16-38, Page 16-13).
6. Press the output shaft through the bearing from the large chain sprocket.
7. Remove the snap ring and flat washer from the shaft and large helical gear (Figure 16-39, Page 16-13).
8. Remove the large helical gear from the splined output shaft (Figure 16-40, Page 16-13).
Shifter Shaft Removal
1. Remove the locknut from the D-shaped bellcrank arm (Figure 16-41, Page 16-14).
2. Remove the shifter shaft snap ring (Figure 16-42, Page 16-14).
3. Slide the shifter shaft and fork to the inside of the case and remove the shaft (Figure 16-43, Page 16-14).
4. Use a small bearing puller and remove the shifter shaft seal from the case (Figure 16-44, Page 16-14).
Shifter Shaft Installation
1. Slide a new shifter shaft seal into the case and seat it by tapping on it using a small socket or tube slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the seal (Figure 16-44, Page 16-14).
2. Slide a new shifter shaft and fork from inside the case and through the seal.
3. Install a new snap ring onto the shifter shaft next to the shaft seal (Figure 16-42, Page 16-14).
4. Install bell crank arm onto the D-shaped end of the shifter shaft.
5. Install a nylon locknut onto the shifter shaft and tighten nut to 16 ft-lb (22 N·m) (Figure 16-41, Page 16-14).
Case Inspection
1. Inspect case for cracks and worn bearing cavities.
2. If any bearing seat has become worn or damaged, both halves will have to be replaced.
Shaft Seal Removal
1. Position a case half with shaft seals up.
2. Use a socket or thick wall tube slightly smaller in diameter than the seal and gently drive the seal from outside to inside the case to remove each seal (Figure 16-45, Page 16-15). See following NOTE.
3. Clean and remove any dirt and debris from the seal area.
Shaft Seal Installation
1. Position a case half with shaft seals up.
2. Position seals with lips to the inside of the case and gently drive the seals flush with the outside of the case using a seal…
Output Shaft Assembly
1. Inspect the output shaft for worn splined areas and shaft journals and replace the shaft if necessary.
2. Position the shaft so that the helical gear spline is to the right of the center portion of the shaft. Slide the large helical gear onto the output shaft and up against the center hub (Figure 16-47, Page 16-16).
3. Position the opposite end of the output shaft down through the shaft hole in the service fixture with the helical gear up.
4. Install a flat washer onto the output shaft against the helical gear hub (Figure 16-48, Page 16-16).
5. Install a snap ring onto the output shaft and helical gear (Figure 16-49, Page 16-16).
6. Reposition the output shaft with the helical gear shaft end down through the shaft hole in the service fixture (Figure 16-50, Page 16-16).
7. Install the large chain sprocket onto the splined portion of the output shaft opposite the helical gear (Figure 16-51, Page 16-16).
8. Install the chain sprocket flat washer (Figure 16-52, Page 16-16).
9. Install the chain sprocket snap ring (Figure 16-53, Page 16-17).
10. Install the chain sprocket bearing snap ring (Figure 16-54, Page 16-17).
11. Position the output shaft with the large helical gear splined end down against a metal plate on a press platen. Hold the sha…
12. Press the large chain sprocket bearing onto the output shaft (Figure 16-56, Page 16-17). See following CAUTION.
13. Position the output shaft with the large chain sprocket splined end down against a metal plate on a press platen. Hold the s…
14. Press the large helical gear bearing onto the output shaft (Figure 16-58, Page 16-18).
15. Place a protective cloth over the service fixture.
16. Place the output shaft assembly on the fixture and make sure that the completed assembly is oriented correctly (Figure 16-59, Page 16-18).
Intermediate Shaft Assembly
1. Inspect the intermediate shaft for worn splined areas and shaft journals. Replace the shaft if necessary.
2. Install bearings on the shaft for the small chain sprocket (Figure 16-61, Page 16-19). See following CAUTION.
3. Position the intermediate shaft with the small chain sprocket end up and the small helical gear end down through the shaft hole in the service fixture (Figure 16-62, Page 16-19).
4. Install the small chain sprocket onto the shaft and needle bearing assemblies (Figure 16-63, Page 16-19).
5. Install the splined flat washer against the small chain sprocket (Figure 16-64, Page 16-19).
6. Install an E-clip onto the shaft and chain sprocket (Figure 16-65, Page 16-20).
7. Install large helical gear onto splined intermediate shaft next to the small chain sprocket (Figure 16-66, Page 16-20).
8. Install an E-clip onto the intermediate shaft to secure the large helical gear (Figure 16-67, Page 16-20).
9. Check the orientation of components for proper assembly (Figure 16-68, Page 16-20).
10. Position the intermediate shaft with the small helical gear end up and large helical gear down against the service fixture, and slide new roller bearing assemblies onto the gear race (Figure 16-69, Page 16-21).
11. Slide the splined engagement gear ring onto the splined intermediate shaft and small chain sprocket (Figure 16-70, Page 16-21).
12. Install the small helical gear onto intermediate shaft (Figure 16-71, Page 16-21).
13. Install the flat washer on helical gear (Figure 16-72, Page 16-21).
14. Install the snap ring onto shaft to secure the small helical gear (Figure 16-73, Page 16-21).
15. Position the large helical gear end of intermediate shaft against a steel plate on a press platen and press a new bearing on…
16. Position the small helical gear end of intermediate shaft against a steel plate on a press platen (Figure 16-75, Page 16-22).
17. Press a new bearing onto large helical gear bearing race until the bearing inner race is flush with the end of the intermediate shaft.
Intermediate and Output Shaft Assembly
1. Position the output shaft assembly on the service fixture with the large chain sprocket and bearing up and the helical gear end of the output shaft down through the shaft hole in the service fixture (Figure 16-76, Page 16-22).
2. Slip the chain over the large chain sprocket on the output shaft (Figure 16-77, Page 16-22).
3. Place the small helical gear end of the intermediate shaft down into the chain and lift up on the chain, placing it on the small sprocket and slide the intermediate shaft assembly next to the output shaft.
4. Begin working the chain onto the large chain sprocket, lifting it up as it’s being attached to the sprocket. See following NOTE.
Transmission Assembly
1. Position case (back half) onto the service fixture with the output shaft bearing port directly over the shaft hole in the fix…
2. Install the ground speed governor shaft yoke bracket and tighten screws and lock washers to 15 in-lb (1.7 N·m) (Figure 16-80, Page 16-24).
3. Install the intermediate and output shaft and gear assembly into the back case, aligning the front output shaft down through the case and seal and through the service fixture (Figure 16-81, Page 16-24). See following CAUTION and NOTE.
4. Gently lift the engagement ring up as far as it will go with gears meshed. Hold it in position and slide the engagement fork into the groove in the engagement ring gear, and allow the engagement fork shaft to fit down into the case cavity provided.
5. Position the gear shifter bell crank arm down and slightly to the left, with the shifter arm fork up and slightly to the right (Figure 16-82, Page 16-24).
6. Hold the engagement gear fork into place, lifting it and holding the engagement gear up, and leaning it slightly to the left, away from the shifter arm fork (Figure 16-83, Page 16-24).
7. Hold the engagement gear fork shaft up with one hand and at the same time move the fork shaft and pin to the right. Turn the shifter bell crank arm so that the shifter arm fork interlaces with the engagement fork shaft pin (Figure 16-84, Page 16-25).
8. Allow the engagement fork and gear to drop down to its lowest position, causing the shifter arm bell crank to rotate upward and rest parallel with the case edge (Figure 16-85, Page 16-25).
9. Tap gently on the top of both shafts with a rubber mallet until the bearings are seated in the case cavities.
10. Install the input shaft into the bearing in the case cavity (Figure 16-86, Page 16-25). See following CAUTION.
11. Fit the front half of the case onto the back half, allowing the input shaft and rear output shaft to pass through the shaft seals. See following CAUTION.
12. Install the neutral limit switch and detent barrel assembly and tighten to 21 ft-lb (28 N·m) (Figure 16-88, Page 16-26).
13. Apply a 1/8-inch (2 mm) wide coat of Three Bond sealant or Loctite 5699 Gasket Eliminator to the bottom half of the case. See following CAUTION.
14. Gently press on the case and allow the bearings to begin seating in the case. Gently tap on the case at positions close to each shaft area to help seat the bearings and sealant (Figure 16-89, Page 16-26).
15. Install the case bolts and tighten the middle area of the case in a criss-cross pattern first, then the ends of the case also in a criss-cross pattern to 25 ft-lb (34 N·m) (Figure 16-90, Page 16-26).
16. Install the drain plug and washer and tighten to 8 ft-lb (11 N·m).
17. Remove the fill and level plugs and fill the case through the top fill plug with 20 ounces (600 mL) of Bobcat Trans/Differential Fluid P/N 6687120. See following NOTE.
18. Install the level plug using a small amount of Loctite 545 thread sealant on the threads and tighten to 20 ft-lb (27 N·m).
19. Install the fill plug on the top of the case using a small amount of Loctite 545 thread sealant on the threads and tighten to 20 ft-lb (27 N·m).
Transmission Installation

Section 17 – Front Differential Models 6203-01-139-S and 6203-01-189-S
General Information
Axle Half Shaft Removal
Front Differential Removal
Tools Required For This Section
Front Differential Coil And Output Cover
Coil and Output Cover Removal
1. Position the front differential case over a pan or container suitable for draining oil and remove the drain plug from the bottom of the case. Drain the oil from the case and dispose of the oil properly (Figure 17-4, Page 17-3).
2. Position differential case on a clean solid surface with the coil and output cover up.
3. Remove bolts from the output cover (Figure 17-5, Page 17-3).
4. Gently tap on the output cover flange with a plastic or rubber mallet to loosen the cover (Figure 17-6, Page 17-4)
5. Remove output cover, coil, and male splined hub (Figure 17-7, Page 17-4).
1. Position the output cover on a clean solid surface with the splined hub up (Figure 17-8, Page 17-4).
2. Remove the thrust plate from the cover.
3. Remove the retaining ring from around the inside edge of the cover flange (Figure 17-9, Page 17-4).
4. Remove armature plate shim (Figure 17-10, Page 17-5).
5. Remove armature plate (Figure 17-11, Page 17-5).
6. Hold the output cover vertical by holding the splined hub (Figure 17-12, Page 17-5).
7. Use a small diameter wooden or rubber mallet, or wooden or fiberglass tool handle, and gently tap the hub and bearing from the cover (Figure 17-13, Page 17-5).
1. Position a new coil and output cover on a clean solid surface and install the male hub and bearing into the bearing cavity by gently tapping the dowel pin end of the hub (Figure 17-14, Page 17-6).
2. Position armature plate around hub and bearing (Figure 17-11, Page 17-5). See following NOTE.
3. Install the armature plate shim (Figure 17-10, Page 17-5).
4. Install the armature retaining ring (Figure 17-9, Page 17-4).
5. Install the thrust plate on the output cover (Figure 17-15, Page 17-6). See following NOTE.
6. Install the needle sized roller thrust bearing onto the male pin of the hub (Figure 17-16, Page 17-7). See following NOTE.
Coil and Output Cover Installation
1. Position the ring gear and housing assembly on a clean solid surface with the ring gear hub up.
2. Use the pinion gear shaft and turn the gear so that one of the tab slots in the ring gear hub and bearing cage assembly is in line with the pinion gear shaft (Figure 17-17, Page 17-7).
3. Position the armature plate on the hub cover so that one of the tabs will align with the pinion shaft and corresponding slot in the ring gear hub bearing and cage assembly. See following NOTE.
4. Gently place the coil and output cover plate, with the armature tabs seating down into the tab slots in the ring gear bearing and cage assembly, down onto the case and tighten the case bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 17 ft-lb (23 N·m).
5. Adjust the backlash set screw. See Backlash Adjustment on page 17-7.
1. Locate the backlash adjustment set screw on the right front, coil side, of the differential (Figure 17-19, Page 17-7).
2. Use a 3/32-inch Allen wrench and turn the screw clockwise until it stops (do not apply torque).
3. Turn the Allen wrench and set screw counterclockwise slowly while turning the pinion gear shaft clockwise. Continue this process until the pinion gear shaft can rotate four complete turns freely and without any tight spots.
Front Differential
Front Differential Disassembly
1. Position the front differential case over a pan or container suitable for draining oil and remove the drain plug from the bottom of the case. Drain the oil from the case and dispose of the oil properly (Figure 17-4, Page 17-3).
2. Position differential case on a clean solid surface with the coil and output cover up.
3. Remove bolts from the output cover (Figure 17-5, Page 17-3).
4. Gently tap on the output cover flange with a plastic or rubber mallet to loosen the cover (Figure 17-6, Page 17-4)
5. Remove output cover, coil, and male splined hub (Figure 17-7, Page 17-4).
6. Remove ring gear with roll cage and roller bearing assembly (Figure 17-20, Page 17-8).
7. Remove the needle sized roller thrust bearing (Figure 17-21, Page 17-8).
8. Use a small diameter wooden or rubber mallet, or wooden or fiberglass tool handle, and gently tap the hub and bearing from the gearcase (Figure 17-22, Page 17-8).
9. Remove gear case hub seal by gently driving the seal from the outside of the case (Figure 17-23, Page 17-8). See following NOTE.
10. Remove input cover plate bolts (Figure 17-24, Page 17-9).
11. Gently slide the cover plate and seal off of the splined shaft of the pinion gear (Figure 17-25, Page 17-9).
12. Inspect the O-ring seal for damaged areas (Figure 17-26, Page 17-9).
13. Gently slide the pinion gear shaft and bearing from the gearcase (Figure 17-27, Page 17-9).
14. Hold the pinion gear and shaft and gently turn the outside bearing race. The bearing should roll easily with no rough or flat spots and no excess play. Replace with a new bearing if necessary (Figure 17-31, Page 17-11). See following NOTE.
15. Inspect the pinion shaft seal in the cover plate for damaged or worn areas that could be providing for oil leaks (Figure 17-28, Page 17-10). See following NOTE.
1. Place the input cover plate and seal between jaws of a heavy duty vise (Figure 17-28, Page 17-10). See following NOTE.
2. Push the seal out of the cover plate using a seal installation tool or large socket slightly smaller in diameter than the seal. Press the seal out from the outside of the cover plate. See following NOTE.
1. Position a new three-lip seal on the cover plate (Figure 17-29, Page 17-10).
2. Press a new seal into the input cover plate, using a seal installation tool, until the surface of the seal is flush with the input cover plate (Figure 17-30, Page 17-11).
3. Inspect the pinion gear and splined portion of the shaft. If the gear is worn, damaged, or the splined portion is worn or damaged, replace the pinion and shaft with a new one. See following NOTE.
4. Inspect the pinion gear shaft bushing inside the gearcase (Figure 17-32, Page 17-11). See following NOTE.
1. Position the ring gear and clutch cage with roller bearings on a clean solid surface (Figure 17-33, Page 17-12).
2. Gently raise the clutch cage and the first level of roller bearings to a height where the roller bearings begin to release from the cage (Figure 17-34, Page 17-12). See following NOTE.
3. Remove the first level of roller bearings from the clutch cage (Figure 17-35, Page 17-12).
4. Gently raise the clutch cage and bring the second level of roller bearings to a height where the roller bearings begin to release from the cage (Figure 17-36, Page 17-12).
5. Lift the clutch cage from the inside of the ring gear hub. See following NOTE.
6. Remove the fourteen spring clips from the clutch cage. See following NOTE.
7. Inspect the clutch cage for cracked and broken segments.
1. Position the ring gear with the gear down against a clean solid surface.
2. Position a clutch cage and roller bearings close to the ring gear and hub (Figure 17-37, Page 17-13).
3. Slide a clutch cage into the ring gear hub deep enough to allow insertion of roller bearings into the spring clips and hold them into place (Figure 17-38, Page 17-13).
4. Assemble the first level of roller bearings into the clutch cage and ring gear hub and slide the clutch cage down to the second (or top) bearing level (Figure 17-39, Page 17-14).
5. Assemble the second (or top) level of roller bearings into the clutch cage (Figure 17-40, Page 17-14).
6. Complete the assembly of clutch and ring gear by pushing the clutch cage and roller bearings down so the clutch is flush with the ring gear hub (Figure 17-41, Page 17-14).
Front Differential Assembly
1. Position the gearcase on a clean solid surface with the output seal cavity up. See following NOTE.
2. Install a seal into the gearcase cavity using a seal installation tool or large socket, slightly smaller than the seal body diameter (Figure 17-42, Page 17-15).
3. Gently tap the seal body down until the face of the seal is 1/8-inch (3 mm) below the cavity surface.
4. Position the gearcase on a clean solid surface with the output seal down (Figure 17-43, Page 17-15). See following NOTE.
5. Install a female output hub and bearing into the gearcase bearing cavity and gently tap the hub until the bearing seats in the gearcase (Figure 17-44, Page 17-15).
6. Install the ring gear hub with clutch and roller bearing assembly into the gearcase and down around the female output hub (Figure 17-45, Page 17-15).
7. Push the clutch cage and bearing assembly down to be flush with the top surface of the ring gear hub (Figure 17-46, Page 17-16).
8. Use the pinion gear shaft and turn the gear so that one of the tab slots in the ring gear hub and bearing cage assembly is in line with the pinion gear shaft (Figure 17-17, Page 17-7). See following NOTE.
9. Prepare a coil and output cover assembly for installation on the gearcase. See Coil and Output Cover Assembly on page 17-5.
10. Position the armature plate on the hub cover so that one of the tabs will align with the pinion shaft and corresponding slot in the ring gear hub bearing and cage assembly. See following NOTE.
11. Gently place the cover plate down onto the case, with the seven armature tabs seating down into the tab slots in the ring gear bearing and cage assembly (Figure 17-47, Page 17-16).
12. Install input pinion gear, shaft and bearing. Gently tap on the input shaft with a rubber or wooden mallet to seat the bearing (Figure 17-48, Page 17-17). See following NOTE.
13. Seat the pinion gear bearing into the gearcase cavity (Figure 17-49, Page 17-17). See following NOTE.
14. Install input cover plate and three-lip seal on input shaft (Figure 17-50, Page 17-17).
15. Install the input cover plate bolts and tighten, in a criss-cross pattern, to 17 ft-lb (23 N·m).
16. Adjust the backlash set screw. See Backlash Adjustment on page 17-7.
17. Remove the oil fill plug and add 5 ounces (150 ml) of Bobcat Trans/Differential Fluid P/N 6687120.
18. Install the oil fill plug and tighten the plug to 10 ft-lb (13 N·m).
Front Differential Installation
Axle Half Shaft Installation

Section 18 – Rear Differential Models 420366 and 420851
General Information
Axle Shafts and Differential Removal
Rear Differential Disassembly
1. Remove the bottom drain plug (4) and plug washer (5) and drain the lubrication oil from the differential housing (Figure 18-4, Page 18-3).
2. Clean the outside surfaces of the differential housing.
3. Gently scrape any sealant or gasket material from the housing surfaces where the flanged portion of the axles bolted to the differential.
4. Move the differential assembly to a clean bench area.
5. Remove the nine hex flanged-head bolts (2) from the housing (Figure 18-4, Page 18-3).
6. Use two flat wrenches or flat metal bars and gently pry the top portion of the housing away from the bottom portion (Figure 18-5, Page 18-4). See following CAUTION.
7. Position the bottom half of the housing with the differential pinion and ring gear assemblies so that the ring gear is to the right (driver side) and back (Figure 18-6, Page 18-4). See following CAUTION.
Pinion Gear Removal
1. Remove the pinion shaft oil seal (7) (Figure 18-4, Page 18-3).
2. Remove the pinion gear and shaft (6) with bearings.
1. Place the pinion gear face on a solid flat surface (Figure 18-7, Page 18-5).
2. Remove the snap ring and thin washer adjacent to the splined end of the pinion shaft (Figure 18-8, Page 18-5).
3. Use a bearing puller wedge and press the splined end ball bearing from the pinion shaft (Figure 18-9, Page 18-5).
4. Remove the pinion gear roller bearing and large thin washer (Figure 18-10, Page 18-5).
1. Place the pinion gear face onto a solid flat surface (Figure 18-7, Page 18-5).
2. Slide the thin washer (12) down onto the pinion gear race (Figure 18-4, Page 18-3).
3. Slide a new roller bearing down on the pinion shaft and next to the thin flat washer and pinion gear (Figure 18-10, Page 18-5).
4. Press a new ball bearing onto the pinion shaft.
5. Slide the thin washer (9) down onto ball bearing race (Figure 18-4, Page 18-3).
6. Install the snap ring onto the pinion shaft adjacent to the thin washer and ball bearing race (Figure 18-8, Page 18-5).
Ring Gear Removal
1. Remove the two axle shaft oil seals (14) from the differential housing (Figure 18-4, Page 18-3).
2. Remove the ring gear, bearings and clutch carrier assembly.
3. Place the assembly with the ring gear and bearing up on a solid flat surface (Figure 18-11, Page 18-6).
4. Remove the ring gear bolts from the ring gear and clutch carrier assembly. See following CAUTION.
1. Use a bearing puller wedge and press the bearing from the ring gear hub (Figure 18-12, Page 18-6).
2. Properly support the ring gear surface and press a new bearing onto the ring gear hub (Figure 18-13, Page 18-6).
Clutch Carrier Assembly
1. Place the clutch carrier bearing down against a clean flat surface with ring gear and bearing up (Figure 18-11, Page 18-6).
2. Remove the ring gear bolts.
3. Remove the ring gear from the clutch carrier assembly.
1. Position the new clutch carrier assembly with the carrier bearing down and remove the protective plastic plate from the new clutch carrier assembly (Figure 18-15, Page 18-8). See following CAUTION.
2. Carefully position the ring gear and bearing onto the clutch carrier assembly (Figure 18-16, Page 18-8).
3. Align the bolt holes and install ring gear bolts and finger tighten (Figure 18-17, Page 18-8).
4. Tighten ring gear bolts, in a crisscross pattern, to 33 ft-lb (45 N·m).
1. Place the ring gear down against a clean flat surface with the clutch carrier hub bearing up (Figure 18-14, Page 18-6).
2. Carefully place a bearing puller wedge between the clutch carrier and the inside bearing surface.
3. Position the clutch carrier assembly and ring gear between press platton bars and press the bearing from the clutch carrier.
Ring Gear Installation
1. Position the differential housing so that the fill plug is to the back and left (Figure 18-18, Page 18-8).
2. Position the ring gear, bearings and clutch carrier assembly into the differential housing with the ring gear to the right, or driver side of the housing cavity (Figure 18-20, Page 18-9).
3. Seat the ring gear bearing into the driver side housing groove and the clutch carrier bearing into the passenger side housing groove.
4. Install two new oil seals (14), one on each side of the ring gear and carrier assembly, and seat them in housing (Figure 18-4, Page 18-3). Also see Figure 18-20, Page 18-9.
Pinion Gear Installation
1. Position the pinion gear assembly into the differential housing, meshing the pinion gear with the ring gear (Figure 18-21, Page 18-9).
2. Seat bearings and align large thin pinion bearing washer in housing groove (Figure 18-22, Page 18-9).
Rear Differential Assembly
1. Provide a continuous 1/8 inch (3 mm) wide bead of ThreeBond® 1215 gasket compound to the bolt flange on the bottom half of the differential housing (Figure 18-24, Page 18-10). See following NOTE.
2. Place the top half of the differential housing on the bottom half, making sure that the three oil seals and bearings align in their respective grooves.
3. Install a new oil seal on the splined end of the pinion shaft and seat in housing (Figure 18-23, Page 18-10).
4. Install the four hex flanged-head bolts in the larger ring gear cavity first, and finger tighten (Figure 18-25, Page 18-10).
5. Install the four hex flanged-head bolts in the pinion cavity last, and finger tighten.
6. Tighten the ring gear cavity bolts first, using a criss cross pattern, with bolt number nine last, to 25 ft-lb (34 N·m) (Figure 18-26, Page 18-10).
7. Tighten the pinion gear cavity bolts last, using a criss cross pattern to 25 ft-lb (34 N·m).
8. Clean and install the drain plug and washer before filling the rear differential with new lubricant. Tighten the drain plug to 8 ft-lb (10.8 N·m)
9. Add 20 oz. (600mL) Bobcat Trans/Differential Fluid P/N 6687120. Use a funnel when filling the differential through the lubricant level indicator hole (1).
10. Apply Loctite 567 to the threads of the level indicator plug, and tighten to 21 ft-lb (28 N·m).
Axle Shafts and Differential Installation

Section 19 – Kubota D722 Diesel Engine Manual

Section 20 – Honda GX 620 Gasoline Engine Manual

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